While performing this repair, would it be a good time to replace the oil pump rotor? Or can that even be accomplished with this level of dis-assembly? The reason I ask is that my oil pressure runs a little low at idle and lower RPM; hoping a new oil pump rotor might fix that too.
How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics
- Thread starter Zane
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The oil pump gets oiled better than any other part of the pressurized system. In theory the wear should be minimal.
That's normal. It's temp and rpm dependent.
Proyota
SILVER Star
So Happy to hear you sell the torx screws and just ordered them from your website. I called a Toyota dealer today to order new seal and screws and found out the seal is still available but the philips screws have been discontinued.
They are jis screws not phillips.
Proyota
SILVER Star
See I learn something new everyday! Thank-you. I really never realized there was a difference!
mdawg
SILVER Star
Just did this over the New Year's weekend... this was an incredibly helpful thread. I read through it a couple of times to get my head around it.
Here are some of my observations/feedback:
Here are some of my observations/feedback:
- The 3/4 breaker bar striking the PS frame worked great. Kind of scary, but worked well. Be sure to disconnect the wire in the center of the distributor cap (that goes to the ignition coil).
- The Harbor Freight 300ft/lb torque wrench also seemed to do it's job. I was able torque to 300 without any additional breaker bar. I positioned the breaker bar at the 11 o'clock position on the crank, body-spooned the DS fender and pulled till it clicked. I then put my 3/4 breaker bar into action to give it a little extra ft/lbs.
- Based on the advice from @Hornd, I drained about a liter of coolant from the rad, and disconnected the 2 hoses on top of the radiator, so I would not booger up my radiator when removing/installing the fan/fan shroud.
- The front crank seal was pretty easy... a Lisle seal puller I got from Amazon worked great. The 2 in PVC coupling was definitely the way to install it.
- As for the oil pump cover screws, I did use a #3 JIS bit. I noticed a fairly significant difference between how my #3 Phillips bit from Hitachi fit compared to the JIS bit: the Phillips bit was kind of sloppy and the JIS seated perfectly. Plenty of folks here have had success using the #3 Phillips... I think the bottom line here is that the bit fits and seats well (my #3 Phillips did not).
- I did try heating and hammer-bit-tapping the screws before putting a ratchet on it. One came out well, the second one (the screw at the bottom far-right) start to maul, even with the JIS bit. I then switched to use the JIS bit with my Hitachi 18v impact driver and all screws came right out. I did heat up the screws first with a map gas torch for about 20-30 seconds just to warm them up.
I wouldn't heat the screws, that will make them expand and get tighter. Heat around the screws if you're going to use heat.
Hornd
SILVER Star
As the screws heat it makes them swell, then they shrink as they cool. They shrink faster than the surrounding metal which has more mass and holds more heat. A quick shot of PB Blaster assists.
I tried the JIS bit in a Gearwrench on the 1st screw with no treatment and had issues. Next 6 came out easy with Heat, PB Blaster and Cordless impact driver.
About 10 guys have used these screws as replacement with success (sorry pic is rotated!)
I prefer the Socket Head (Allen Head) over the JIS/Phillips; but just an Opinon (I'm still learning)
That makes no sense. Heat the surrounding metal and it will expand, allowing the screws to slide right out. Heating the screws also makes them softer while they are hot, which can lead to stripping them out.
Finally got around to doing this after having the new gasket and seal for over a year.
Overall went smoothly except for one of the pump cover screws. On the second screw my Phillips bit sheared and got stuck in the screw. Had to basically drill it out and then use a speed out to remove it.
Lashing the breaker bar to the frame rail worked great and a 14mm impact socket held while I tightened it.
Wish I had done this sooner!
Overall went smoothly except for one of the pump cover screws. On the second screw my Phillips bit sheared and got stuck in the screw. Had to basically drill it out and then use a speed out to remove it.
Lashing the breaker bar to the frame rail worked great and a 14mm impact socket held while I tightened it.
Wish I had done this sooner!
2fpower
SILVER Star
Taught my son @7powernerd how to do this today on our Ute project. Easy as pie. I think that going through all the screws with the JIB bit hitting it with a hammer 10 times each with mild force is the key.
Just to add my experience and thoughts...
Removing the fan/shroud and putting them back were actually my most time consuming things. I cut the belts as I was replacing them with new ones, installing the new belts was a bit of a chore, but nothing hard.
5 of the 7 pump cover screws came out easily. The 2 on the right hand side did not. After stripping them and getting angry I stepped back for a few contemplating my next move. Before drilling them I decided to drive home a Torx bit into what was left of the screw head. These screws are so soft the Torx bit pierced right into them giving me a firm grip. Put the socket on it and they backed out with little effort. So my 2 cents to this procedure is if the Phillips #3 fails, hammer in a Torx bit before reaching for the drill and bits.
Removing the fan/shroud and putting them back were actually my most time consuming things. I cut the belts as I was replacing them with new ones, installing the new belts was a bit of a chore, but nothing hard.
5 of the 7 pump cover screws came out easily. The 2 on the right hand side did not. After stripping them and getting angry I stepped back for a few contemplating my next move. Before drilling them I decided to drive home a Torx bit into what was left of the screw head. These screws are so soft the Torx bit pierced right into them giving me a firm grip. Put the socket on it and they backed out with little effort. So my 2 cents to this procedure is if the Phillips #3 fails, hammer in a Torx bit before reaching for the drill and bits.
The most difficult process for me was removing the fan. The 4 nuts was extremely stubborn to loosen. I ended up using a big flat head screwdriver to wedge between the nuts while applying a lot of force with a 12mm gearwrench.
I was able to loosen all four nuts but during my attempt on the second nut I had to apply so much force that when the nut loosened the screwdriver slipped and my elbow broke the little plastic hose insert on top of the radiator (see attached photo). I place a screw to temporarily stop the radiator fluid leak.
With that said, is there a fitting I can use to repair the radiator or do I need a new one?
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
I broke that off on my radiator as well a few years ago. I ended up getting a new radiator, but it was due for replacement.
I've heard of others who have repaired it with a brass fitting or jb weld - although I'm not sure how well the jbweld would hold.
Thanks to all that have postes! Really useful. Tips I used:
- use cardboard to protect the radiator
- block the engine rotation through the inspection window (14mm impact socket didn't stay on. standard long socket on a handle did)
- tap the philips screws, and gently apply pressure inward to keep the driver firmly in place, while rotating slowly. I could feel the metal philips bit twist, I'd back off, reseat the bit, and try again. Got down to the lower right screw and it did not want to budge. Tapped the cover slightly counter clockwise using a wooden handle and small hammer. The cover moved 1/3 of an inch, releasing the last philips screw from the cover. Then going back with the bit, I was able to break it. Used a little blue temp thread lock replacing the screws with the Fastenal Allen Head replacements - bought 25 for about $5.
Other notes.
Release the alternator bolt and back off the adjuster early. It has to be done. Makes getting the belts off easier.
Taking the battery box out was useful - better access to the belt adjuster bolt
No problem 'bump' starter method to break loose the 30mm bolt on the harmonic dampner - defintely unplug the distributor power
Lost a few cups of anti-freeze removing the main hose, must be removed to take out the shrowd
scraped about a 1/4 inch of dirt+oil from the pan under fan belt area. What a mess! I'd been losing a quart every 500 miles.
I replace the o-ring on the distributor shaft a few weeks ago, nice a dry there now.
on a side note, the OME coil springs lifted the back 3/4 of an inch. Nice ride now. Front and all new shocks are up next.
This is an awesome resource!
- use cardboard to protect the radiator
- block the engine rotation through the inspection window (14mm impact socket didn't stay on. standard long socket on a handle did)
- tap the philips screws, and gently apply pressure inward to keep the driver firmly in place, while rotating slowly. I could feel the metal philips bit twist, I'd back off, reseat the bit, and try again. Got down to the lower right screw and it did not want to budge. Tapped the cover slightly counter clockwise using a wooden handle and small hammer. The cover moved 1/3 of an inch, releasing the last philips screw from the cover. Then going back with the bit, I was able to break it. Used a little blue temp thread lock replacing the screws with the Fastenal Allen Head replacements - bought 25 for about $5.
Other notes.
Release the alternator bolt and back off the adjuster early. It has to be done. Makes getting the belts off easier.
Taking the battery box out was useful - better access to the belt adjuster bolt
No problem 'bump' starter method to break loose the 30mm bolt on the harmonic dampner - defintely unplug the distributor power
Lost a few cups of anti-freeze removing the main hose, must be removed to take out the shrowd
scraped about a 1/4 inch of dirt+oil from the pan under fan belt area. What a mess! I'd been losing a quart every 500 miles.
I replace the o-ring on the distributor shaft a few weeks ago, nice a dry there now.
on a side note, the OME coil springs lifted the back 3/4 of an inch. Nice ride now. Front and all new shocks are up next.
This is an awesome resource!
