Oil Pump Cover screws & Oil pump Rotor Set job, Need some advice! (5 Viewers)

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Joined
Nov 11, 2018
Threads
5
Messages
29
Location
Washington
So here I am 3 screws stripped. I tried the speed bits and wasn't able to grab a bite.
So I drilled the heads off and wondering if I should drill another hole into the bolts and try the speed bits again or another type of drill tap of higher quality someone may be familiar with. These were the "as seen on tv" bits I picked up awhile back.

Question 2.
I went ahead and bought another oil pump rotor set from the dealer seeing he said there were only 10 left in the world according to his inventory so I said why not. But when I pulled out the old one, I didn't notice until I removed it that there's a little triangle mark on both pieces. Do these triangles need to be at a certain position with each other and/or with the block assembly?

Thanks to all in advance for reading and giving input.
Be blessed!



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So here I am 3 screws stripped. I tried the speed bits and wasn't able to grab a bite.
So I drilled the heads off and wondering if I should drill another hole into the bolts and try the speed bits again or another type of drill tap of higher quality someone may be familiar with. These were the "as seen on tv" bits I picked up awhile back.

Question 2.
I went ahead and bought another oil pump gear from the dealer seeing he said there were only 10 left in the world according to his inventory so I said why not. But when I pulled out the old one, I didn't notice until I removed it that there's a little triangle mark on both pieces. Do these triangles need to be at a certain position with each other and/or with the block assembly?

Thanks to all in advance for reading and giving input.
Be blessed!



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You drilled out too much you can usually do it and leave a bit to grab with pliars
lol Yeah, well when I was drilling I just drilled until the head popped off.
I'm thinking this screw extractor set at Lowes will do the trick.
 
Get an extractor set that can be hammered in.

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Get an extractor set that can be hammered in.

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Get an extractor set that can be hammered in.

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Yes sir!
Good stuff to learn, never did this before.
I decided to use the speed bits as they were brand new and thankfully the extractor side of the bits worked perfectly without any hassle, after I did step one in your pic with a separate drill bit.
The drill side of these speed bits don't do the job drilling in for the extractor side to grab a bite so definitely use a separate drill bit to make the shallow hole.
Thanks for the heads up.

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The triangle sides go together. It’s marked so you don’t put the gear in backwards.

As far as the Phillips screws. Get yourself a Philips impact.
 
FWIW for the future, the OEM screws are not Phillips head, they're JIS Cross head screws, some Phillips bits will fit OK but many are too "pointed" and end up messing up the slots.

So what some of us have done is take an OEM JIS screw to a hardware store then start sticking different #3 bits into the screw until you find one that fits snugly. Or, buy a set of JIS bits.

FWIW

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FWIW for the future, the OEM screws are not Phillips head, they're JIS Cross head screws, some Phillips bits will fit OK but many are too "pointed" and end up messing up the slots.

So what some of us have done is take an OEM JIS screw to a hardware store then start sticking different #3 bits into the screw until you find one that fits snugly. Or, buy a set of JIS bits.

FWIW

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Oh ok, Gotcha. I'll be out shopping tomorrow and hopefully find some screws at a fastener hardware store nearby Spokane WA.
One place looks to carry them but they are 12mm. I recall a brother on here measured OEM to be 13.6mm.
I'll chime in later after I go shopping around.
thanks!
 
The triangle sides go together. It’s marked so you don’t put the gear in backwards.

As far as the Phillips screws. Get yourself a Philips impact.
Yeah I was just reading on a Toyota forum, guys were complaining because one manual says facing cover, Toyota factory says facing Engine block. But everyone agrees, it doesn't matter so long as it's brand new install, otherwise make sure to leave it as is if it is used, because it has a wear pattern you don't want to change.
 
Yeah I was just reading on a Toyota forum, guys were complaining because one manual says facing cover, Toyota factory says facing Engine block. But everyone agrees, it doesn't matter so long as it's brand new install, otherwise make sure to leave it as is if it is used, because it has a wear pattern you don't want to change.
Do as @mudgudgeon states.

Also download the FSM from the RESOURCES section above. Don't use a Haynes or Chilton or other brands manual.
 
Fastenal Has the Screws

 
@WarriorJ : IME you'll spend more in gas money than you'll save by driving around trying to find aftermarket screws that might fit. IME the OEM screws fit correctly and work. But then again if you're driving around looking for a bit that fits ----.

FWIW I've used a very low strength (purple) thread locker when installing them, no issues. May seem controversial but the low strength is designed specifically for small screws 6mm and under.


The originally installed oil pump screws appear to have come from the factory with some sort of thread sealer on them (very thin black coating). Either way, if using low strength thread locker makes anyone uncomfortable you can go with the Loctite 545 thread sealer (helps to prevent galvanic corrosion), or use nothing. Your choice.

Some people prefer to install a torx/star head screw and one vendor sells a kit, might be worth a try but it may be worth your time to call ahead to ask if they have the kit in stock and when it will ship:

 
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Yeah I was just reading on a Toyota forum, guys were complaining because one manual says facing cover, Toyota factory says facing Engine block. But everyone agrees, it doesn't matter so long as it's brand new install, otherwise make sure to leave it as is if it is used, because it has a wear pattern you don't want to change.
FWIW, I'd replace those screwdriver-only fasteners with socket head cap screws. An allen wrench will never cam out. And you can get them anywhere.

Just don't Loctite them in, or they'll never come out; screws that small should never be glued in - the glue is stronger than the screw.

And, please, download the manual.
 
FWIW, I'd replace those screwdriver-only fasteners with socket head cap screws. An allen wrench will never cam out. And you can get them anywhere.

Just don't Loctite them in, or they'll never come out; screws that small should never be glued in - the glue is stronger than the screw.

And, please, download the manual.
I hear ya.
Tacoma Screw store had them in 16mm but not 14 so went ahead & bought them since they were only $3.38 for 8 of them.
They do also offer the torx but didn't have them in stock so I just went with the allen.
I stuck an Allen in the screw hole to measure the depth that these screws could go. They have no problem although the threading in the hole ends right at the end of these 16mm. lol I'm gonna grind off a tad of these bolts.
I know some guys are gonna read this and be frustrated with me but I'm on a time crunch, it's my DD.
That's why I couldn't wait a week or even 3 days for shipping.
I'm pretty confident these will work perfectly.
Some scientific pics to help anyone out who might think too hard like me on some fricken screws that are hard to come by. 🤣
Thanks to all the brothers on this forum helping each other out. I'm usually a lone ranger but this site has proven to be very helpful.
Much appreciated!

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I hear ya.
Tacoma Screw store had them in 16mm but not 14 so went ahead & bought them since they were only $3.38 for 8 of them.
They do also offer the torx but didn't have them in stock so I just went with the allen.
I stuck an Allen in the screw hole to measure the depth that these screws could go. They have no problem although the threading in the hole ends right at the end of these 16mm. lol I'm gonna grind off a tad of these bolts.
I know some guys are gonna read this and be frustrated with me but I'm on a time crunch, it's my DD.
That's why I couldn't wait a week or even 3 days for shipping.
I'm pretty confident these will work perfectly.
Some scientific pics to help anyone out who might think too hard like me on some fricken screws that are hard to come by. 🤣
Thanks to all the brothers on this forum helping each other out. I'm usually a lone ranger but this site has proven to be very helpful.
Much appreciated!

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In a world of excess and waste I always find it curious what people value when making purchases.
 
IMHO, Toyota should not have used screwdriver fasteners on joints that require any torque at all. These timing cover screws are a perfect axample; the interior grab handles are another. Those screws are used because the torque tools on the assembly line use them. They could just as easily have used Allen or Torx fasteners. When I was an assembly process engineer, I outlawed them and fought with the design engineers to get rid of them. The only argument in their favor I ever heard was history. Like from the 50's.
 

Wouldn’t it have saved time to just spend the $50 on screws from the dealer and not have to measure, then go online, find them etc.

Anyways it’s completely irrelevant.

I hope the screws work, they should at least. I admit I measured for a replacement screw on the number 2 oil pan and bought screws 2mm longer. Didn’t stop one of the pan threads from snapping. Ended up going with OEM from the dealer.
 
Wouldn’t it have saved time to just spend the $50 on screws from the dealer and not have to measure, then go online, find them etc.

Anyways it’s completely irrelevant.

I hope the screws work, they should at least. I admit I measured for a replacement screw on the number 2 oil pan and bought screws 2mm longer. Didn’t stop one of the pan threads from snapping. Ended uphat's some of the worst price gouging I've seen. Enough to piss me off actually. 50 bucks for 7 f'ing screws no way.

Wouldn’t it have saved time to just spend the $50 on screws from the dealer and not have to measure, then go online, find them etc.

Anyways it’s completely irrelevant.

I hope the screws work, they should at least. I admit I measured for a replacement screw on the number 2 oil pan and bought screws 2mm longer. Didn’t stop one of the pan threads from snapping. Ended up going with OEM from the dealer.
Pretty much the same time actually. Toyota gave me a days wait, but Tacoma Screw 20 minutes away same day & same distance as Toyota.
But to be honest, I can't exclude principles. 50 bucks for 7 screws is enough to piss me off. Talk about price gouging where I live.
 

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