How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

[David Rodgers]

The key scares the crap out of me. Can I turn the engine so that the key is on top?

How do you know it’s on top?

Can you lose the key bad enough that you can’t get it (without removing the engine )?

 

[jamboree22b]

The key scares the crap out of me. Can I turn the engine so that the key is on top?

How do you know it’s on top?

Can you lose the key bad enough that you can’t get it (without removing the engine )?

That key falling inside the block was my biggest fear. I ALWAYS move the crank to the top, 0 deg, just a habit from changing timing belts. The key is at about 8 O'clock viewing from the front. When I placed the crank pulley back on, I had markers on the block where the key was and also markers on the pulley where the key guide was. I wiggled it in very slowly. It was the second most tense moment in the seal replacement.

The oil pump screws were my first fear, in case they would snap. I hammered in the bit #3 and used a torque bar to gauge the force. They all snapped loose around 14 lb/ft. I did replace them all just in case. And I did put a small coat of Toyota RTV sealant on the oil pump cover.

Side note: When replaced the distributor seal. I marked with a Sharpie where the distributor should line up with the block, but I forgot to notice where the rotor was before pulling it out. Good that the rotor has a mark showing where it should be before inserting and also good that I put the pulley on the top center before pulling it out.

I now must have the only FJZ-80 out there running Mobil 1 with NO leaks. (though not for long).

 

[cruiserdan]

I now must have the only FJZ-80 out there running Mobil 1 with NO leaks.

There is at least one other that I know of. I've been running M1 0-40 in mine for 11 years.

 

[Howard705]

Great write up and pics!
If I was doing this job, I might consider replacing the phillips head with some allen head bolts, seems it would make it easier if there is a next time.

Someone on here was selling sets for this about 6-7 years agio. Stainless maybe?

 

[David Rodgers]

That key falling inside the block was my biggest fear. I ALWAYS move the crank to the top, 0 deg, just a habit from changing timing belts. The key is at about 8 O'clock viewing from the front. When I placed the crank pulley back on, I had markers on the block where the key was and also markers on the pulley where the key guide was. I wiggled it in very slowly. It was the second most tense moment in the seal replacement.

The oil pump screws were my first fear, in case they would snap. I hammered in the bit #3 and used a torque bar to gauge the force. They all snapped loose around 14 lb/ft. I did replace them all just in case. And I did put a small coat of Toyota RTV sealant on the oil pump cover.

Side note: When replaced the distributor seal. I marked with a Sharpie where the distributor should line up with the block, but I forgot to notice where the rotor was before pulling it out. Good that the rotor has a mark showing where it should be before inserting and also good that I put the pulley on the top center before pulling it out.

I now must have the only FJZ-80 out there running Mobil 1 with NO leaks. (though not for long).

So, if I put it TDC then rotate it until 4:30 0’clock, the it should be up at the top, correct?

 

[David Rodgers]

I did this over the weekend. I had everything removed since I'm doing an engine rebuild (top end). I put it on TDC, removed the bolt. With the bolt removed, you can see the keyway slot. I put the bolt back in and rotated it to 12:00. I put Toyota FIPG on the outside edge of the front seal (like OTRAMM). A very light coat. I put it on and then ran my finger around it removing excess.

When removing the oil pump bolts, I cleaned them really well with a brass brush and brake cleaner. I bought a socket and did the tap on the socket thing. Used an impact to unscrew. I then cleaned the socket driver and shot brake cleaner into the screw/bolt each time just right before I removed it.

It went well. Came out no problem. I'm putting in the torq bolts/screws.

 

[David Rodgers]

Some people are advising using FIPG on the block surface and the cover surface for the oil pump gasket/oring. The manual doesn't mention anything. What do you guys think?

 

[White Sheep]

Some people are advising using FIPG on the block surface and the cover surface for the oil pump gasket/oring. The manual doesn't mention anything. What do you guys think?

The previous owner of my LC used FIPG for a lot of things, including the oil pump. I was leak free for about three years. Now my oil pump is leaking. I've been slowly re-gasketing everything and the oil pump is next.

 

[Kernal]

O-rings are designed to work without FIPG, in fact, if you slather FIPG over
an O-ring it can't work as designed.

So to answer the question, if Toyota wanted FIPG to be used at that location they wouldn't specify an O-ring, so no FIPG is supposed to be used.

 

[alia176]

I'm having a hell of a time removing two screws. Needless to say, I'll be getting a new oil pump cover and a more effective extractor set.

The first pic shows a really f'ed up hole and I'm hoping I can drill/tap it. The broken screw is still inside and she ain't coming out with my extractor.

The second pic is of a broken screw that is still inside and need to find a more effective extract that bites in the head of the broken screw better. Looks like Grabipro is a good one, according to this YT video . But, nobody local carries such a set so I'll have to mail order unless the usual big box stores has something I can buy today.

Thanks.

 

[cruiserdan]

Looks like that cover may have to come off. That took me 27 hours.

 

[alia176]

Looks like that cover may have to come off. That took me 27 hours.

Yeah, I'm dreading that routine. I'm going to stumble my way through this project one way or another. But eventually, that engine is coming out for a new wiring harness and the usual "while I'm in there" so I'll address this at that time.

I"m so pissed off right now and so is my back being bent over the top of the engine bending down to drill out every screw.

 

[lp2k]

@alia176 are you getting to the point where you feel the engine will need to be removed in order to extract the broken screws inside of the block? Apologies in advance if I am wrong. Thx and good luck on this one. I am now second guessing myself on this one...

 

[alia176]

@alia176 are you getting to the point where you feel the engine will need to be removed in order to extract the broken screws inside of the block? Apologies in advance if I am wrong. Thx and good luck on this one. I am now second guessing myself on this one...

I'm not there yet and I'll keep going fwd to see what I can do for the bottom hole that I totally buggered up.

 

[BILT4ME]

I'm not there yet and I'll keep going fwd to see what I can do for the bottom hole that I totally buggered up.

Why are you doing this from the TOP?

Take off the steering stabilizer "cover", maybe even remove the radiator and the access is MUCH better. I can see why it would be F'd up trying to reach down in there that far.

You can remove a few items and have really decent access. It's not "perfect" but you can see it and your arms are not at full stretch trying to run a drill.

 

[alia176]

Why are you doing this from the TOP?

Take off the steering stabilizer "cover", maybe even remove the radiator and the access is MUCH better. I can see why it would be F'd up trying to reach down in there that far.

You can remove a few items and have really decent access. It's not "perfect" but you can see it and your arms are not at full stretch trying to run a drill.

I did it from the bottom too and my back is still jacked. Metal shaving going into eyes is concerning when drilling from the bottom, even with safety goggles.

 

[BILT4ME]

I did it from the bottom too and my back is still jacked. Metal shaving going into eyes is concerning when drilling from the bottom, even with safety goggles.

View attachment 2665282

Next time use left handed drill bits. When they hook, they unscrew the screw.

O'Reilly Auto carries a set of left handed bits with screw extractors for about $70. It's more than I wanted, but they are a quality set and worth your time since they are readily available. I bought a set for this and wasn't needing the extractors, just the bits.

 

[alia176]

Next time use left handed drill bits. When they hook, they unscrew the screw.

O'Reilly Auto carries a set of left handed bits with screw extractors for about $70. It's more than I wanted, but they are a quality set and worth your time since they are readily available. I bought a set for this and wasn't needing the extractors, just the bits.

Dude, yup tried that first thing right after I removed the heads in order to relieve the tension on the threads

 

[cruiserdan]

If the heads are popped, can you pry the cover off? That would leave you with some of the screws to grab with vice grips?

 

[flintknapper]

I think a drill is the wrong tool for the job at this juncture. If it were me....I'd take a Dremel and metal cutting burr and CAREFULLY make sure the remaining end of the bolt was flat. Then take a SHARP center punch and make good divot in the 'center' of the bolt. Then use the smallest drill bit that will hold up (1/8") and make your pilot hole with that. Gradually enlarge it with slightly bigger bits until you can insert a 'GOOD' extractor or try a left hand drill bit. But DON'T get into the threads.