How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

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ERG80 said:
Is there any reason not to use a little gasket maker when reinstalling this cover?
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I don't see why not, though you would have to be very careful not to use too much so the excess doesn't ooze in to the oil stream. The hardest part of this job for me was installing that damn o-ring, trying to get it to stay put while installing the cover over it was a pita. A little high tack helps.
 
I used Sil-Glyde to retain the o-ring in the groove. It works well.

silicone.webp
 
4G63 POWER said:
I don't see why not, though you would have to be very careful not to use too much so the excess doesn't ooze in to the oil stream. The hardest part of this job for me was installing that damn o-ring, trying to get it to stay put while installing the cover over it was a pita. A little high tack helps.
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If you plan on removing it in the future, then gasket maker is a PITA to clean off. I personally would use a little grease or sil glyde as mentioned and put it together that way. That's what I did with mine.
 
I did this job over the weekend. Used a bit of Vaseline to hold the o-ring in the groove. Took longer to sort out the shape to fit in all the right spots and stay flat.
 
Houston FZJ80 said:
Anyways, I ended up buying 100 torx screws to replace the soft Toyotas and will be selling the balance in sets of 7 at the PHH website starting next week after I get them. I hope I don't have to do this again, but if I do I will be comfortable have the torx in there.
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Do you still sell these Torx? They’re out of stock on your website.
 
Correct. 12 inch-pounds = 1 foot-pound.
 
ToyotaDon said:
Wow, an old post and you caught my incorrect math. :deadhorse:
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Haha, I wasn't trying to be a jerk. I'm glad you found the torque spec! I was just making sure I had it correct before I go wrenching down on the cover plate. :beer:
 
Will Van said:
Haha, I wasn't trying to be a jerk. I'm glad you found the torque spec! I was just making sure I had it correct before I go wrenching down on the cover plate. :beer:
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I was speaking with my tongue in my cheek.

I did go back and edit the post for the next guy though.
 
In order for future visitors to fully benefit from the vast archival information on this site it is vitally important to edit, with citation I might add, any identified discrepancies. It benefits everyone and makes the knowledge base that much more valuable.
 
Bump

Has anyone changed out the oil pump gear set with the oil cover off? I didn't see anything in the fsm other than torque specs for the oil pump relief valve.
 
Very good write up. I just did my 1997 40th Edition.

FWIW

I did not remove the radiator. Only the two upper hoses to remove the shroud, needed that extra room.

I did not completely remove the steering stabilizer. Only the two screws that hold the braket to the frame. Then pushed it in and left it hanging in front of the front driver's side wheel.

The 30 mm impact socket is from O-Reily's, 1/2". I inserted the breaker bar into a long 1.5" galvanized plumbing pipe and secured it with lots of rope. I was worried the breaker bar would shatter when hit the starter. It worked out beautifully. The pulley came out by just wiggling it out.

I used a #3 Philips on a 3/8" bit from Home Depot, Husky, to remove the oil pump screws. I cleaned each screw really well and used a metal pick to clear the slots, then hammered in the bit. I used my old, trusty torque wrench, the one with the needle, not the clicker, slowly, to break them loose. They got loose between 15 and 25 lb/ft. All fine, none broke or stripped. I did put 7 new ones, torqued to about 15 lb/ft, as there are no specs. I can see how easy these screws can get stripped or broken. I would not recommend using an impact wrench on these, as seen on YouTube.

When installing the gasket on the oil pump, I did use a very slight, thin, coat of the Toyota RTV to hold it in place.

For torquing the pulley screw, I secured the crankshaft with a 14mm 6 point socket on the flywheel, as per the FSM. It held it beautifully.

Also replaced both O-Rings in the distributor.

It turned out to be a 3 day job for me. Took it really easy. Cleaning all the mess took the most time.

After all is done, there is still a very slight seepage. I cannot figure out where it is coming from. Looks like from the sensor at the bottom of pan #2, and another from that brass hex cap. Not sure. Though a leak free Land Cruiser is a Utopia.

Cheers,


Richard
 
flagstaff said:
I have always added a sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator to keep from damaging it, or scraping my knuckles on it.
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Duh!!! Excellent tip!! I wish I could have placed the cardboard before I scraped the radiator while pushing the fan up in between the shroud and the radiator.

Today was the first time since I owned the Cruiser that I drove the truck and there were no oil stains on the drive way. The leaks from the head gasket do not make it to the ground. Not sure how long it will remain leak free.

The big culprit in my case turned out to be the O-ring in the distributor. All seals were still pliable after almost 30 years. None was hard or britle or cracked. The leaks started immediately after I started using Mobil 1 full synthetic.
 
I was just telling my wife something similar about Mobil 1. Great oil and better when used in a car from day 1. But you get a used older car from someone who didn’t use Mobil 1 and you start using it, all of the leaks will come out. My Camry hybrid Mobil 1 0w-20 doesn’t leak a drop (but does burn - separates issue)
 
I am about to put my 93 back together after doing crank and oil pump seals. I noticed I don't have the piece of metal in the notch that the photos from OP had. I watched a YouTube video before starting this and it stressed not dropping that in which I swear I didn't. Is it possible it was missing from before? What happens if I dont install it? Do I need to go fishing for it? What does that entail? Not sure if I should make a new thread either. Thanks either way

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You should try to find the key or just order one from the dealer if still available. I e no experience running without one but I sure wouldn’t risk it if a few bucks can solve the problem.
 
ckennedy said:
I am about to put my 93 back together after doing crank and oil pump seals. I noticed I don't have the piece of metal in the notch that the photos from OP had. I watched a YouTube video before starting this and it stressed not dropping that in which I swear I didn't. Is it possible it was missing from before? What happens if I dont install it? Do I need to go fishing for it? What does that entail? Not sure if I should make a new thread either. Thanks either way

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The keyway is what keeps the pulley from free spinning on the crank. I'd definitely be looking for it. Maybe drain the oil. One thing you don't want is for it to get into the timing chain.
 
Do not leave the woodruff key out! If your crank cannot spin the pulley, the alternator and water pump will not work, and you won't be able to set the timing. The worst thing that could happen besides overheating is the pulley would "smear" the crankshaft, requiring a new engine or expensive rebuild.
 
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