I *believe* that I saw it at Pep Boys on Juan Tabo. I'll check their web site and see if they carry it.
-Mike-
How to get a diesel freak and an anti 1FZFE freak in the same place?
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I *believe* that I saw it at Pep Boys on Juan Tabo. I'll check their web site and see if they carry it.
-Mike-
alia176
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- #42
Got some more work done today. Crankshaft polished, pistons are clean, new rings installed, four out of six (two are flying in on first class on JAL 
) connecting rod bearings installed, crankshaft installed with old bearings. This is a cool process when you have the luxury of time 
) connecting rod bearings installed, crankshaft installed with old bearings. This is a cool process when you have the luxury of time
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alia176
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I thought the oil squirter into each cylinder is cool. I learned that the oil squirters have a built in check valve with a ball and spring. Once sufficient amount of oil pressure has built up, the squirters let the oil go through. This allows the oil pump to build up pressure in the system during startup.
The FSM is very particular as to where to place the opening of each piston ring. The first piston became the template for the remaining five pistons. Hey, I'm an amateur and this is how I can stay consistent! Robbie let me use the cool SnapOn piston ring compressor tool for piston insertion. It's a very handy tool indeed.
The FSM is very particular as to where to place the opening of each piston ring. The first piston became the template for the remaining five pistons. Hey, I'm an amateur and this is how I can stay consistent! Robbie let me use the cool SnapOn piston ring compressor tool for piston insertion. It's a very handy tool indeed.
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Have you figured out how that tooth got broken off that sprocket?
-Mike-
-Mike-
alia176
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- #46
Not a clue and it looks like an old break
Some more pics:
First two are of the famous bushing in the block that can render the block useless if ruined during block cleaning at the machine shop.
Third one is of the coolant leak that's behind the head. All this time I thought it was due to the heater hoses at the heater valve not tight enough. The cause of the leak was the freeze/casting plug that's partially popped out. I assume this took place when the head was cleaned and pressure tested but not sure. Dan says this is not a "serviceable" part so it'll go back in with some loctite.
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alia176 said:
alia176 said:The cause of the leak was the freeze/casting plug that's partially popped out. I assume this took place when the head was cleaned and pressure tested but not sure. Dan says this is not a "serviceable" part so it'll go back in with some loctite.
alia176 said:I don't think we'll get Jon into a FZJ80 after what he saw today
pappy said:
Do I need to say more? How many of these "non-serviceable" unobtainium parts are there on a 1FZFE?
pappy said:
The good news is that you have for certain, found the coolant leak. That plug has been leaking a long time. Did Dan offer up a "standard" freeze plug that could be used. Surely you can measure it and find a new one somewhere? What does it measure?
-Mike-
-Mike-
You act like you are afraid of a couple of chucks of cast iron and aluminum.
There is a source in TX for the block bushing (B-2710) but I think it is expensive. Its only a problem if you don't know about it and have the block vatted without removing it though I'm not sure what is involved in removal.
I am pretty sure that is the first rear plug failure on the head that we have seen on 'Mud. LX_TREME had a coolant leak that looked like yours but he said his was an external HG leak at the back of #6 and he did not mention that plug on the back of the head.
-Mike-
alia176
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The block bushing can easily be pulled out and then re-inserted. You just have to make up a puller of some sort.
I put the head plug back in with some loctite 680. That oughta hold!
edit: Robbie suggested that I fill the plug with JB Weld (24 hour setting kind, not quick set) and also to apply some to the outside of the plug. I'll be doing that in March.
I put the head plug back in with some loctite 680. That oughta hold!
edit: Robbie suggested that I fill the plug with JB Weld (24 hour setting kind, not quick set) and also to apply some to the outside of the plug. I'll be doing that in March.
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alia176
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Got some more work done today. Routing the vaccum hoses is much easier when the engine is on the stand. The ECU harness has been snaked through the block and connected to all sensors and grounding locations.
At this point the engine needs the bottom oil pans and then inserted into the engine bay. I am going to put this project aside until March when we return from our road trip.
At this point the engine needs the bottom oil pans and then inserted into the engine bay. I am going to put this project aside until March when we return from our road trip.
I see a Slick 50 box in the background. Have you been using that stuff?
DanS HJ-45
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Man that's looking good....
No block heater?
And what are the PVC pipe bits lying around for? Never seen anything like that used to assemble an engine before.
Dan
No block heater?
And what are the PVC pipe bits lying around for? Never seen anything like that used to assemble an engine before.
Dan
What the heck is that blue thing attached to the side of that motor that you just spent all that time and money on?
