How to get a diesel freak and an anti 1FZFE freak in the same place?

[locrwln1]

Very cool. See when you get here to work on mine, it will be nothing but a thing. You'll be able to start picking up the little jobs that Robbie doesn't have time for.

Could you buy one of those gallon sized carb cleaning dealys that Napa carries and dip the pistons in that for a day for each one? They even come with their own basket. That should remove all of the varnish/carbon. Doesn't hurt the aluminum on a carb, should be safe for a piston.

Jack

 

[alia176]

Could you buy one of those gallon sized carb cleaning dealys that Napa carries and dip the pistons in that for a day for each one? They even come with their own basket. That should remove all of the varnish/carbon. Doesn't hurt the aluminum on a carb, should be safe for a piston.

Jack

EXCELLENT suggestion, I'll go buy one today. I was hoping for an easier solution to break down the carbon deposits! Thanks dude.

My plan is to put the long block back together on the engine stand and then snaking the ECU harness through the intake and plug into all engine components. The whole shebang will get stabbed into the engine bay and finish plugging the harness into the remaining items like ECU, tranny, starter, O2 and other components. At least that's what the great Robbie says is the easiest way to do this anyway

 

[marcfj60]

If you did the HG job only two years ago, what motivated you to do it again now? Any thoughts on why there were the large amount of carbon deposits? Those pistons looked really clean from 2 years ago.

 

[SteveLCetc]

You know how those industrial engineers are - they like doing the same thing over and over...

 

[alia176]

If you did the HG job only two years ago, what motivated you to do it again now? Any thoughts on why there were the large amount of carbon deposits? Those pistons looked really clean from 2 years ago.

copy/paste

The reason for pulling the engine out was due to two things: broken crankshaft sprocket tooth and minor pitting on the block surface. The stripped block and the timing cover are at the machine shop for a decking, probably about .005" and a mild honing. New piston rings (same size) and connecting rod bearings will be installed.

As far as the carbon deposits, I guess that's normal - perhaps I'm not using fancy enough gas or high enough octane? Robbie did suggest to use 87 octane per the owners manual and I don't run that normally. It sure is a discouraging sign to see that much crud built up everywhere.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Synthetic or regular oil?

(Wondering about the varnish and deposits)

 

[locrwln1]

As far as the carbon deposits, I guess that's normal - perhaps I'm not using fancy enough gas or high enough octane? Robbie did suggest to use 87 octane per the owners manual and I don't run that normally. It sure is a discouraging sign to see that much crud built up everywhere.

Actually running higher octane that what is required it bad for a motor. A lower octane burns "hotter", that is why higher octane is used for higher HP motors, it slows the burn down some, so that you get less pre-ignition. So don't run a higher octane than you need to, also don't be afraid to "get'em hot." Or as my father used to say, give it an "Italian tune up" by blowing the carbon out of them.

Jack

 

[SteveLCetc]

Actually running higher octane that what is required it bad for a motor.

I agree with eveything except this part. Why is it "bad for a motor"? It's not only a waste of money because you're spending extra money for preignition additives that you don't need, but, as you say, detonation is slowed down and therefore not as efficient. I can't say it's "bad" for the engine though. You can see this if you have a ScanGauge and check your mileage before and after you fill up with premium.

 

[alia176]

Synthetic or regular oil?

(Wondering about the varnish and deposits)

I can't quite recall, I think I ran Rotella in that engine too.

Keith's engine had serious varnish as compared to mine. His block was a dark copper color as oppose to mine which was a normal iron block color. The machine shop made a comment on this as well. Robbie thinks that keith's 80 was a local runner that often shut down before properly reaching operating temps. This is why it's bad to have a short commute I guess as the condensation doesn't get burned out of the engine and the oil doesn't flow as well.

I got the block back today but the rings and bearings are on order so not much progress will be made on it this weekend. I'll take some pics tomorrow after I unload it w/o dropping it!

 

[sirenmoses]

... Robbie thinks that keith's 80 was a local runner that often shut down before properly reaching operating temps. This is why it's bad to have a short commute I guess as the condensation doesn't get burned out of the engine and the oil doesn't flow as well.
...

oops, guess I'd better start walking to work. My rigs don't get warmed up til I'm about 5 miles down the hill.

 

[marcfj60]

copy/paste

The reason for pulling the engine out was due to two things: broken crankshaft sprocket tooth and minor pitting on the block surface.

The broken crank sprocket tooth would make sense. How did you notice the pitting on the block surface when the engine was still together? Surely you don't have to remove the head or entire engine to replace that crank sprocket. I've never done this repair nor have I ever owned a vehicle equipped with a 1HZ so I apologize for the questioning. I'm just trying to figure out the sequence of events that alerted you to the pitting. Was it there when you did the HG last time but decided not to repair it then but now that you had to do some work and had some time decided to just bite the bullet and do the repair properly?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I've never done this repair nor have I ever owned a vehicle equipped with a 1HZ so I apologize for the questioning.

Neither has Ali!

It's a shame. I want one.

Dan

 

[alia176]

The broken crank sprocket tooth would make sense. How did you notice the pitting on the block surface when the engine was still together? Surely you don't have to remove the head or entire engine to replace that crank sprocket. I've never done this repair nor have I ever owned a vehicle equipped with a 1HZ so I apologize for the questioning. I'm just trying to figure out the sequence of events that alerted you to the pitting. Was it there when you did the HG last time but decided not to repair it then but now that you had to do some work and had some time decided to just bite the bullet and do the repair properly?

Funny you ask! The last time, I did notice something irregular with the block surface but inexperience didn't make me take notice So, she's been eating coolant ever since and I kept tightening hoses and stuff. Recently, bubbles began to show up in the overflow coolant tank during higher RPMs (classic sign of combustion escaping through the coolant passage ways) so the head came off again. Robbie pointed out the pitting and I understood the severity of it. I could've bandaid it by using Hylomar to fill in the dips but I wouldn't be able to sleep at night knowing that fact.

The sprocket replacement would've required the removal of the front timing cover and that is much easier to do with the block out so that pretty much decided the next course of action for me!

Hey, I got time being unemployed and all

 

[locrwln1]

I agree with eveything except this part. Why is it "bad for a motor"? It's not only a waste of money because you're spending extra money for preignition additives that you don't need, but, as you say, detonation is slowed down and therefore not as efficient. I can't say it's "bad" for the engine though. You can see this if you have a ScanGauge and check your mileage before and after you fill up with premium.

Besides the waste of money, from what I have been told, because of the lower combustion temperature, it leads to carbon buildup as well as incomplete burns, which can lead to pre-ignition/detonation. The carbon buildup causes "hot spots" which ignite earlier than they should.

I had a friend that had a Dodge Durango, she thought she was doing it a "favor" by running higher octane fuel. It began to run poorly, until the CEL came on. They took it to the dealer and after a lot of snooping the mechanic finally asked her what octane she had been running. She told him and he "chewed" her out for it and told her to use the 87 that it requires, once she did that, it started running much better and her mileage actually increased.

Jack

 

[marcfj60]

Neither has Ali!

It's a shame. I want one.

Dan

Oops! Typo.

 

[alia176]

The block has been picked up and she is so sexy!!! Dan says that the piston rings have arrived so I'll go pick them up today and start the re-assembly process. Unfortunately the last of the ConRod bearing is taking the slow boat from Japan so that'll take a while to get here.

My camera is showing the correct date but in the wrong order I fixed it on the camera.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Sexy indeed!

If there's something cooler than freshly machined metal, I'm not sure I know what it is.

Dan

 

[evanz80]

Hey Ali -

The block looks great. It will be just like having a brand new motor.

As far as the carbon deposits, I guess that's normal - perhaps I'm not using fancy enough gas or high enough octane? Robbie did suggest to use 87 octane per the owners manual and I don't run that normally. It sure is a discouraging sign to see that much crud built up everywhere.

Regarding the carbon build-up, I've got the same problem. Robbie said that my engine had some of the worst carbon deposits that he's ever seen, even though the surface of the cylinders looked great and it appears that the truck has been well maintained by previous owners (I like to think that I take pretty good care of it as well.)

I almost always use Chevron gas, which I think is one of the best fuels available, but I had been running regular, which is typically 85 or 86 in NM. I will likely run mid-grade going forward, which is typically 88 octane, to comply with Mr. T's request for 87 octane.

Robbie mentioned a product called auto-rx (check out www.auto-rx.com). I also e-mailed with Ken Romer of Rising Sun and he has tried the product with good results. Check out the website for more details, but essentially the product claims to liquefy carbon and sludge and deposit the mess into the oil filter. It is good for an initial engine cleaning (they recommend two cycles for engines over 100,000 miles), and then they also recommend a periodic maintenance cycle.

A basic cleaning cycle is fresh oil and fliter (using non-synthetic oil) and add the auto-rx. Run for 2,500 miles, then drain and fill with fresh non-synthetic oil and a new filter and run for 3,000 miles.

A possible disadvantage - you can't really tell how much the product is working without tearing down the engine, but there are indicators to watch for, such as burning less oil.

Anyway, after Robbie's (and Ken Romer's) recommendation, I'm trying it in the Cruiser and will likely try it in the Camry 4-cylinder as well. The Camry has 155,000 miles and is burning more oil than I would like it to.

Regarding the Cruiser, Robbie has cleaned out all the carbon deposits that he could get to, but he thought the product would be good for cleaning the carbon deposits around the rings, and the rest of the engine. Referring back to Ali's earlier pictures make it clear that there can be a lot of build-up there.

I guess the real test will be to see how everything looks the next time the engine gets torn apart - but hopefully it won't be anytime soon!

Evan

 

[pappy]

Robbie mentioned a product called auto-rx (check out www.auto-rx.com).

Is it available local? If not, group buy?

 

[evanz80]

Is it available local? If not, group buy?

I'm not aware that it's available locally. Only through the website as far as I know.

Maybe I am in over my head, but I already sprung for 10 bottles. I figured the Cruiser will need three 12 ounce bottles once I get through the two recommended cleaning cycles (for engines over 100,000 miles). The Camry will take another two bottles (again, over 100,000 miles). That leaves five bottles for the Highlander (almost 60,000 miles) and the Celica (almost 70,000 miles). The truck won't need it for a while - it only has 12,000 miles.

But, I agree - a group buy would be a good way to go. The discount gets to be pretty good for 10 bottles. I also recall that shipping was free, so that helps a little bit too.