HOW TO: FZJ80 Throttle Cable Replacement
- Thread starter NSBG
- Start date
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Trusty Rusty
SILVER Star
Man oh man. Everyone should start with a worn out throttle cable so that they can fully appreciate how smooth a new one is. Don't get me wrong, the 1FZ is still a dog, but it is night and day difference. It feels like I picked up 100hp. 
Great write-up, thanks!
Great write-up, thanks!
I had no idea either since I had never driven another 80 series. My Brother-in-law drove it once though and said something about effort needed vs. throttle response. I now have a new one installed, and it's waaaaay better.
Trusty Rusty
SILVER Star
@LC4LIFE - you asked earlier about any sort of protection - stole @Kernal 's idea and wrapped just about the full length with 3/8" ID fuel line tubing.
The 5' roll covered the whole thing - I split it at all of the hold points. Looks factory and should offer some good longterm protection from the heat!
The 5' roll covered the whole thing - I split it at all of the hold points. Looks factory and should offer some good longterm protection from the heat!
Doing this with the hand throttle cable attached made it a 5 banana job...
95% of my throttle hang problem is solved, however, it still over revs by about 500 rpms and still require tipping the throttle slightly, a huge improve over the 3k RPMs previously. I suspect the throttle linkage is sticky, can folks share your experience with cleaning the throttle linkage?
95% of my throttle hang problem is solved, however, it still over revs by about 500 rpms and still require tipping the throttle slightly, a huge improve over the 3k RPMs previously. I suspect the throttle linkage is sticky, can folks share your experience with cleaning the throttle linkage?
I've tried using lithium grease spray in the ends and that's helped for a while.
Its smoother in lit grease from my prior bush fixes while on a trip! I think the throttle body/ linkage needs to be pulled off for a full clean but haven't seen anyone done it on mud yet.
May be a dumb question as the FJ80 has a different engine all together, but would this write up still apply for a 1991 LC?
Thanks @NSBG for posting that top-notch write-up!
In Reassembly Step 2 I struggled a bit getting the bracket-sandwich to stay in place while getting the bolts tightened down. Here's a little trick that worked well for me – hopefully it's helpful to someone in the future.
In Reassembly Step 2 I struggled a bit getting the bracket-sandwich to stay in place while getting the bolts tightened down. Here's a little trick that worked well for me – hopefully it's helpful to someone in the future.
- Thread a zip tie through each of the two bracket-sandwich holes (with the zip tie head on the cab side of the bracket)
- Thread those through the firewall and from the engine bay, have a helper pull them tight and hold the bracket-sandwich in place.
- Have them release one of the zip ties, pull it through to the cabin and replace with a bolt as your helper continues to hold the assembly tight against the firewall.
- Once the first bolt is snugged down, your helper can release the second zip tie and the second bolt can easily be inserted.
Tossing this into the thread. As mentioned on the first page of the thread I used a split section of fuel hose on the Accelerator cable years ago, that split fuel hose hasn't changed a bit since I first slipped it over the worn external rubber coating of the cable, which is still working fine. This method IMHO is good (and easy) if you don't want to disconnect one end of the cable.
However if you do disconect the cable at the Throttle Body, you can use heat shrink tubing instead to repair/cover the deteriorated rubber coating of the cable.
Example:
For a different FZJ80 however before installing a new Accelerator cable I slipped cut-to-fit 2-foot lengths of dual wall marine grade adhesive lined flexible heat shrink tubing (1/2") over the new cable then heated it up as I went with a heat gun. Important to leave it about 1/4" long from where you want the tubing to end as heat shrink tubing shrinks a bit lengthwise as well as in diameter. You must work from only one end and not get ahead of yourself while heating/shrinking the tube, otherwise you can get trapped air under the tubing. If you then try to let the air out by poking a hole in the air bubble that little hole will then open up (a lot) when you then reheat that section to shrink it, and it will look like sheit.
One other tip: I hung the cable over a door in order that the natural curve of the cable would be "captured" while I heated the heat shrink tubing holding the heat gun with one hand while holding the cable in slight bend.
Or to put it another way, I didn't want the heat shrink tubing to straighten out the cable, or fix it in a straight position. The heat shrink tubing is flexible but was trying to not stress it any more than necessary, if that makes sense.
I did it in sections leaving about an inch uncovered just where the cable clips into the brackets (which are already covered in a short rubber sheath).
FWIW
However if you do disconect the cable at the Throttle Body, you can use heat shrink tubing instead to repair/cover the deteriorated rubber coating of the cable.
Example:
For a different FZJ80 however before installing a new Accelerator cable I slipped cut-to-fit 2-foot lengths of dual wall marine grade adhesive lined flexible heat shrink tubing (1/2") over the new cable then heated it up as I went with a heat gun. Important to leave it about 1/4" long from where you want the tubing to end as heat shrink tubing shrinks a bit lengthwise as well as in diameter. You must work from only one end and not get ahead of yourself while heating/shrinking the tube, otherwise you can get trapped air under the tubing. If you then try to let the air out by poking a hole in the air bubble that little hole will then open up (a lot) when you then reheat that section to shrink it, and it will look like sheit.
One other tip: I hung the cable over a door in order that the natural curve of the cable would be "captured" while I heated the heat shrink tubing holding the heat gun with one hand while holding the cable in slight bend.
Or to put it another way, I didn't want the heat shrink tubing to straighten out the cable, or fix it in a straight position. The heat shrink tubing is flexible but was trying to not stress it any more than necessary, if that makes sense.
I did it in sections leaving about an inch uncovered just where the cable clips into the brackets (which are already covered in a short rubber sheath).
FWIW
Excellent write up! Thank you. Super helpful. It was definitely a little tricky on the reinstall to get those tabs to stay put. I also kept the adjustment nuts all the way loose and gradually tightened them to get the tension for the idle right. It’s a great value for impact on the experience as it’s something you’re constantly feeling when you drive. 
Experienced this myself! the hard way
Just wanted to say thank you for the thorough post. Just changed mine and it probably took right on 30 minutes.
A quick drive and now it's idling at temp right at 650~ after a few adjustments.
A quick drive and now it's idling at temp right at 650~ after a few adjustments.
Just swapped mine at 203,000 in a new to me 96. Picked up 78180-60280 for $160 and it feels like a new truck now that I can accelerate without jamming my foot to the floor.
