How to cut your fenders... purist turn away

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Joined
Sep 8, 2003
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Location
Bozeman, MT
So I am running my first real run on rocks tomorrow. It is also a shake down run before Moab to see how all my winter mods will hold up. However, before I could go, I needed to trim my fenders.

So I pulled out the camera and snapped a few as I went... enjoy.

Before:
pic1.webp
fender trim 3.webp
 
You can see in the pics above that I had already bent up the rear quarters behind the fenders.

The next step was to determine how much to trim off, 2" off the top and 2" off the rear, none on the "leading" or front edge, since the axle swings up and to the rear.

I used 2" tape to mark off my lines, and then I made a template out of chip board and traced the OEM curve line, and cut it out.
Masking tape 1.webp
template 1.webp
template 3.webp
 
I used my new template to transfer the orignal curve to the new fender cut lines with a sharpie and then it was cuttin' time!...
Transfer 1.webp
transfer 2.webp
transfer 3.webp
 
Now for the really nerve racking part, putting a new metal blade into my jigsaw and comence to cut on my good rust free original fenders...

Tips:

Use a new blade.
Use a good jigsaw.
I liked medium speed.
Don't stop in the middle of the curve...
Rub a little cutting oil on the line.
Watch your line.
Put some masking tape (a few layers at least) to protect your paint from the bottom of the jigsaw.
Use something to support the metal or it will start flapping on you, I used some magnetic welding jig thingy's.
mask the jig.webp
Cutting 1.webp
hold the wobble.webp
 
It was easier for me to see the line cutting in the "up" direction... then worry about going across.

I also left the inner lip on the front of each fender well. I hope to weld in a flat piece of sheet metal to restore some of the structural integrity of the fender. You can see where I started the cut and the remaining lip in the photo below.
coming up.webp
finished.webp
 
Finished product...

After the trim, last image is what I started with.

So I say go for it, if you are running anything as wide as a 12.50 tire, you are probably going to rub, and I waited too long and my sheet metal got bent before it got cut... I say just cut it before you get there.

Hope it helps!

Rezarf <><
final 2.webp
final.webp
pic1.webp
 
I forgot to mention that you will need to trim the lower rear edge to retain the factory lines. Same method as above, just a different template to make it happen.

I am happy with the "OEM" look and tomorrow I will see if I removed enough material or not!

Rezarf <><
 
JamesM said:
maybe I missed it, but what'd you do with the newly exposed raw metal edge? wont rusting be a concern if its not painted? Where there burs or anything you had to take care of?

Yep, just a smooth run with a file, nothing to hard at all. My Bosch Jigsaw cuts so well that it was really a none issue.

I plan on welding in a "replacement" lip after I make sure I can tuck them up into the fenders.

For now, just some Rustoleum brushed on top of the edge.

Rezarf <><
 
Looks nice PaubloCruise!

Are those 55 springs, how did you move the axle back?

Rezarf <><
 
foxfab said:
shoulda cut em round like a "real" Cruiser :D

Just just got this... the 25s were rounded weren't they?

Rezarf <><
 
Nice job! Sure looks better than the usual Sawzall job trimmed out with cheap plastic flares.

Isn't there some sort of sheet metal tool that rolls an edge on the fender--bolts on the hub or something? I thought I saw it once in an Eastwood catalog.

After seeing yours I'm up for doing mine this weekend.

Thanks!
 
I have to say that is the best job of cutting the fenders I've seen. Keeps that factory look, with the rolled edges. (Unlike the hack job the :censor: PO did on mine)

Nicely done :beer:
 

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