Hidden kill switch ideas
- Thread starter Zack1978
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
MUL-T-LOCK ONLINE :: MVP22
PRODUCT DISCONTINUED by MUL-T-LOCK USA due to low demand! Robust and visible this gear lock is meant to discourage any thief looking into the vehicle Features Platform Classic Keyway 006C High Security Mul-T-Lock cylinder May be customized to fit many different types of vehicles Fits both
No idea of this brand. But over the years I have seen a variety of different set ups. Basically try to lock it in first or second gear. Or reverse. It's going to take some fabricating. But it isn't impossible.
Nobody has mentioned GPS? Lojack or simlar? Can these be disabled?? Even with a gear lock or fuel pump cut/kill switch someone can just yank it up on a flatbed. I'm starting to think about a stated value insurance policy. Im anticipating crime rates increasing in the near future
GPS locator is a good idea, but there are monthly fees and it gets quite expensive if you choose a luxo plan ... I'd prolly go that route if I could get a GPS tracker for $125 year... Are there inexpensive options out there ?
Top 8 Best Car GPS Tracker No Monthly Fee in 2020
Car GPS tracking devices are useful to monitor vehicles and protect them from theft or unauthorized use. Get 8 best car GPS tracker no monthly fee here.
www.aiblue.com
I have a “Spot” tracker for using when I’m solo hiking or bike touring in remote areas. it has a yearly fee to use the service. I’m not sure if it can be wired into an alternative power source and it needs a clear view of the sky to work.
an old iPhone or cheap cell phone withthe cheapest plan and the“where’s my phone” app would probably be most realistic system.
I think a large % off hefts are targets of opportunity. Someone sees the car. Breaks in. Hot wires and takes off. Had fun and then abandons car not long after.
the other % being the targeted theft. Someone scopes out an area looking for valuable targets and then does a planning incursion. They may know when you go to work etc etc. then show up with tow truck or tools and head off. In that case your car either ends up as a pile of parts or maybe Gets shipped off to be sold elsewhere.
The spot tracker does have the ability to be cracked open to wire in an external antenna and power source. I have been looking at this solution myself and looking at maybe using a dash mounted GPS antenna and directly wiring for full time power.
I think you mean a capacitor and the button should read “START”
Yes, that's what I meant.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Hey all, so I thought I would post in this thread since it seems the most appropriate. As the value of these vehicles goes up, and living in a major city, the idea of a kill switch became more and more important to me. After looking at all the options out there I decided on going with a magnetic reed switch as my kill switch.
I went this route for a couple reasons: 1. Reed switches are very simple, small and reliable. 2. This type of setup can be hidden behind almost any panel of your choosing, within reason of course. I liked the fact that a thief would not be able to look for any out of place switches as the kill switch. However, the other great alternative in my mind to this magnetic kill switch is to use a stock switch on the dash that is used as a kill switch. The main idea behind both of these (magnetic reed or stock switch) is that everything looks completely stock and confounds the thief and takes too long to figure out how to defeat.
For this project I opted to use these supplies: Reed switch: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/65985K11/ . You can find other variations like normally closed switches, also probably cheaper versions. Panasonic sealed relay: CB1A-R-M-12V . I bought it from here with the matching female connector and terminals. Motorcycle Relays, Panasonic, Mitsuba - http://www.cycleterminal.com/accessory-relays.html . I went with a high quality sealed Japanese relay because I needed this to be faultless and reliable.
For wiring, its super simple like any relay circuit (see pic below). The reed switch gets an ign + signal to activate the relay and allow power to flow through the relay to its intended stock path. If the magnet is not in place, the reed switch is open, the relay wont be activated and power wont flow and the truck will not run at all. Another variation of this setup is to use a normally closed reed switch. That way everything would work as it should until the magnet is in place, at which point the reed switch will open and cut power. Up to you to how you want it to run.
I opted for the normally closed reed switch. Going that route required me to have the magnet secured so that a moving vehicle would not dislodge it. That was easily accomplished with a little velcro sticky dot. I used a high power neodymium magnet to ensure the reed switch is always firmly closed and power is flowing for vehicle operation.
Sorry I have no pics because that would be defeating the purpose of a hidden kill switch, but you honestly don't need them. Everyone should pick their own location and magnet/reed switch option. Its easy and honestly fun thinking of the best/sneakiest place to put the switch. But pick a location that is somewhat convenient if you will need to get to the magnet on a regular basis. Also the great thing about using a kill switch that activates a relay is you can have the switch very far away from the relay and thus hide it anywhere. Only a tenth of an amp flowing through the switch.
Here is a quick janky diagram on how I wired my kill switch:
As for the circuit I targeted in my cruiser to integrate the kill switch, they only need fuel and spark....
Lots of targets have been discussed in this thread and other places on mud so it should be very easy to find your target circuit of choice.
One last note when putting in these kill switches, make sure integration in super clean, reliable and field repairable. I made a small splice harness that is technically completely reversible. That makes it easy enough to service if I ever need to, but it would take way too long for a thief to find the kill switch relay and unplug my kill splice harness.
Hopefully that was helpful to anyone! Just another option among many for kill switches. I really enjoyed this project personally. The system has been working perfectly over the past few months. It's fun to think of ways to thwart a thief.
Cheers!
I went this route for a couple reasons: 1. Reed switches are very simple, small and reliable. 2. This type of setup can be hidden behind almost any panel of your choosing, within reason of course. I liked the fact that a thief would not be able to look for any out of place switches as the kill switch. However, the other great alternative in my mind to this magnetic kill switch is to use a stock switch on the dash that is used as a kill switch. The main idea behind both of these (magnetic reed or stock switch) is that everything looks completely stock and confounds the thief and takes too long to figure out how to defeat.
For this project I opted to use these supplies: Reed switch: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/65985K11/ . You can find other variations like normally closed switches, also probably cheaper versions. Panasonic sealed relay: CB1A-R-M-12V . I bought it from here with the matching female connector and terminals. Motorcycle Relays, Panasonic, Mitsuba - http://www.cycleterminal.com/accessory-relays.html . I went with a high quality sealed Japanese relay because I needed this to be faultless and reliable.
For wiring, its super simple like any relay circuit (see pic below). The reed switch gets an ign + signal to activate the relay and allow power to flow through the relay to its intended stock path. If the magnet is not in place, the reed switch is open, the relay wont be activated and power wont flow and the truck will not run at all. Another variation of this setup is to use a normally closed reed switch. That way everything would work as it should until the magnet is in place, at which point the reed switch will open and cut power. Up to you to how you want it to run.
I opted for the normally closed reed switch. Going that route required me to have the magnet secured so that a moving vehicle would not dislodge it. That was easily accomplished with a little velcro sticky dot. I used a high power neodymium magnet to ensure the reed switch is always firmly closed and power is flowing for vehicle operation.
Sorry I have no pics because that would be defeating the purpose of a hidden kill switch, but you honestly don't need them. Everyone should pick their own location and magnet/reed switch option. Its easy and honestly fun thinking of the best/sneakiest place to put the switch. But pick a location that is somewhat convenient if you will need to get to the magnet on a regular basis. Also the great thing about using a kill switch that activates a relay is you can have the switch very far away from the relay and thus hide it anywhere. Only a tenth of an amp flowing through the switch.
Here is a quick janky diagram on how I wired my kill switch:
As for the circuit I targeted in my cruiser to integrate the kill switch, they only need fuel and spark....
Lots of targets have been discussed in this thread and other places on mud so it should be very easy to find your target circuit of choice. One last note when putting in these kill switches, make sure integration in super clean, reliable and field repairable. I made a small splice harness that is technically completely reversible. That makes it easy enough to service if I ever need to, but it would take way too long for a thief to find the kill switch relay and unplug my kill splice harness.
Hopefully that was helpful to anyone! Just another option among many for kill switches. I really enjoyed this project personally. The system has been working perfectly over the past few months. It's fun to think of ways to thwart a thief.
Cheers!
Great work Chase!
FishNinJay
SILVER Star
Awesome write up. I’m definitely incorporating this magnetic switch in my security, eventually.Hey all, so I thought I would post in this thread since it seems the most appropriate. As the value of these vehicles goes up, and living in a major city, the idea of a kill switch became more and more important to me. After looking at all the options out there I decided on going with a magnetic reed switch as my kill switch.
I went this route for a couple reasons: 1. Reed switches are very simple, small and reliable. 2. This type of setup can be hidden behind almost any panel of your choosing, within reason of course. I liked the fact that a thief would not be able to look for any out of place switches as the kill switch. However, the other great alternative in my mind to this magnetic kill switch is to use a stock switch on the dash that is used as a kill switch. The main idea behind both of these (magnetic reed or stock switch) is that everything looks completely stock and confounds the thief and takes too long to figure out how to defeat.
For this project I opted to use these supplies: Reed switch: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/65985K11/ . You can find other variations like normally closed switches, also probably cheaper versions. Panasonic sealed relay: CB1A-R-M-12V . I bought it from here with the matching female connector and terminals. Motorcycle Relays, Panasonic, Mitsuba - http://www.cycleterminal.com/accessory-relays.html . I went with a high quality sealed Japanese relay because I needed this to be faultless and reliable.
For wiring, its super simple like any relay circuit (see pic below). The reed switch gets an ign + signal to activate the relay and allow power to flow through the relay to its intended stock path. If the magnet is not in place, the reed switch is open, the relay wont be activated and power wont flow and the truck will not run at all. Another variation of this setup is to use a normally closed reed switch. That way everything would work as it should until the magnet is in place, at which point the reed switch will open and cut power. Up to you to how you want it to run.
I opted for the normally closed reed switch. Going that route required me to have the magnet secured so that a moving vehicle would not dislodge it. That was easily accomplished with a little velcro sticky dot. I used a high power neodymium magnet to ensure the reed switch is always firmly closed and power is flowing for vehicle operation.
Sorry I have no pics because that would be defeating the purpose of a hidden kill switch, but you honestly don't need them. Everyone should pick their own location and magnet/reed switch option. Its easy and honestly fun thinking of the best/sneakiest place to put the switch. But pick a location that is somewhat convenient if you will need to get to the magnet on a regular basis. Also the great thing about using a kill switch that activates a relay is you can have the switch very far away from the relay and thus hide it anywhere. Only a tenth of an amp flowing through the switch.
Here is a quick janky diagram on how I wired my kill switch:
As for the circuit I targeted in my cruiser to integrate the kill switch, they only need fuel and spark....
One last note when putting in these kill switches, make sure integration in super clean, reliable and field repairable. I made a small splice harness that is technically completely reversible. That makes it easy enough to service if I ever need to, but it would take way too long for a thief to find the kill switch relay and unplug my kill splice harness.
Hopefully that was helpful to anyone! Just another option among many for kill switches. I really enjoyed this project personally. The system has been working perfectly over the past few months. It's fun to think of ways to thwart a thief.
Cheers!
Just as motivation to anyone who might think this is more trouble than it’s worth.. this is what happened to my FJ62 about a year ago. I just recently replaced the door lock finally. Decided to not even repair or reinforce the door panel metal. (Figured that would just make the damage worse the next time someone tries to pry the lock off)
Pretty sure it was an inside job.. probably tipped off by our outstanding rent-a-mall-cop “security” patrols. This day, I happened to park in the 1 lot that had poor video camera surveillance. Figured it was ok since it was fairly close to the busy main entrance to a hospital. They punched a hole into the door and popped the lock off. They even covered the gaping hole in my door with a small piece of white duct tape, I guess in case someone walks by?
Once inside, they destroyed the steering column cover. Basically tried to hammer a screwdriver into the ignition to force turn it to start. Amazingly, they got so close.. but apparently never succeeded. Eventually, I was able to use a smaller screwdriver at a certain angle and get the car to start. The morons didn’t even steal my AirPods which I stupidly left inside my center console. But, plenty of damage. I was eventually able to get the jacked up ignition cylinder out and replaced with a new OEM one from the local dealership. I fixed a donor door lock cylinder and “rekeyed” it to match, but messed up the bezel bad. Need to get it done right eventually by @ToyotaMatt. But other more important things on the ToDo list. Anyways, going to have to put some more thought into security, once I get this rig fixed up finally.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Dang! That is some damage! Im glad they didn't get the cruiser at least.
stevebradford
In the shop
My simple fix. Could possibly bump start it but at least they likely won’t bother spending the time ripping the truck apart trying to start it.
Last edited:
FishNinJay
SILVER Star
Yep.. these worthless pieces of s*** in So Cal..
on a related tangent.. this is what I did this weekend.. installed a Cat Shield in my wife’s Prius. They’re stealing cats left and right.
Cat Security Shield
Excellent write up! I love the concept and can certainly see the fun of trying to out wit potential thieves. I’d probably use a normally closed reed switch so I don’t have to worry about securely strapping a magnet to it while driving. Hop in, remove hidden magnet and drive off.Hey all, so I thought I would post in this thread since it seems the most appropriate. As the value of these vehicles goes up, and living in a major city, the idea of a kill switch became more and more important to me. After looking at all the options out there I decided on going with a magnetic reed switch as my kill switch.
I went this route for a couple reasons: 1. Reed switches are very simple, small and reliable. 2. This type of setup can be hidden behind almost any panel of your choosing, within reason of course. I liked the fact that a thief would not be able to look for any out of place switches as the kill switch. However, the other great alternative in my mind to this magnetic kill switch is to use a stock switch on the dash that is used as a kill switch. The main idea behind both of these (magnetic reed or stock switch) is that everything looks completely stock and confounds the thief and takes too long to figure out how to defeat.
For this project I opted to use these supplies: Reed switch: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/65985K11/ . You can find other variations like normally closed switches, also probably cheaper versions. Panasonic sealed relay: CB1A-R-M-12V . I bought it from here with the matching female connector and terminals. Motorcycle Relays, Panasonic, Mitsuba - http://www.cycleterminal.com/accessory-relays.html . I went with a high quality sealed Japanese relay because I needed this to be faultless and reliable.
For wiring, its super simple like any relay circuit (see pic below). The reed switch gets an ign + signal to activate the relay and allow power to flow through the relay to its intended stock path. If the magnet is not in place, the reed switch is open, the relay wont be activated and power wont flow and the truck will not run at all. Another variation of this setup is to use a normally closed reed switch. That way everything would work as it should until the magnet is in place, at which point the reed switch will open and cut power. Up to you to how you want it to run.
I opted for the normally closed reed switch. Going that route required me to have the magnet secured so that a moving vehicle would not dislodge it. That was easily accomplished with a little velcro sticky dot. I used a high power neodymium magnet to ensure the reed switch is always firmly closed and power is flowing for vehicle operation.
Sorry I have no pics because that would be defeating the purpose of a hidden kill switch, but you honestly don't need them. Everyone should pick their own location and magnet/reed switch option. Its easy and honestly fun thinking of the best/sneakiest place to put the switch. But pick a location that is somewhat convenient if you will need to get to the magnet on a regular basis. Also the great thing about using a kill switch that activates a relay is you can have the switch very far away from the relay and thus hide it anywhere. Only a tenth of an amp flowing through the switch.
Here is a quick janky diagram on how I wired my kill switch:
View attachment 2605984
As for the circuit I targeted in my cruiser to integrate the kill switch, they only need fuel and spark....
One last note when putting in these kill switches, make sure integration in super clean, reliable and field repairable. I made a small splice harness that is technically completely reversible. That makes it easy enough to service if I ever need to, but it would take way too long for a thief to find the kill switch relay and unplug my kill splice harness.
Hopefully that was helpful to anyone! Just another option among many for kill switches. I really enjoyed this project personally. The system has been working perfectly over the past few months. It's fun to think of ways to thwart a thief.
Cheers!
Like the idea of having a splice harness for backup!
