Help with heater hose!

[SergP]

Wow. Man you have bigger problems than heater hoses. Your brake lines are soft copper refrigeration lines.

Is it possible this is a Copper Nickel Alloy Brake Line .. it looks like copper but ..?

edit: Try to bend the brake line at some aria.. if it bends very easily replace it ..

 

[pb4ugo]

Not to split hairs but I think these arrows are backward. I’m pretty sure the flow from radiator comes into the engine/water pump from the lower hose and returns through thermostat housing. In that case, the heater hose on the bottom radiator hose is the feed for heater core and the shutoff valve with hose to head is the return. Shutting the valve still stops flow in either case and as far as hose hookup, still the same so doesn’t really matter.
View attachment 3538397

I agree with the flow with upper and lower rad hose. For the heater, I think the flow is started by the pump, thru the engine and hot water comes out of the cyldr head to the heater cores. The water is then cooled and returned to the lower rad hose. I don't know for sure, just a guess. Looking at your diagram water is being forced up into the cyldr head.

 

[Skreddy]

I agree with the flow with upper and lower rad hose. For the heater, I think the flow is started by the pump, thru the egine and hot water comes out of the cyldr head to the heater cores. The water is then cooled and returned to the lower rad hose. I don't know for sure, just a guess. Looking at your diagram water is being forced up into the cyldr head.

I can see it going either way, with the lower hose creating a little suction to help pull the outgoing heater water through. I know in my 40 and 60, that hose to the head is the highest point in the cooling system and always has air in there at rest. I figured it’d be hard to push the coolant from head, up and over that hose, especially when the thermostat is open and there was less resistance going that way? Mostly thinking out loud in this. Maybe I should go start one and pull the head hose off and see which way coolant shoots out……

 

[pb4ugo]

That'd be a messy test, but enlightening. Like you said earlier it really doesn't matter.

 

[73FJ40]

The arrows are correct. The connection on the lower radiator hose is the RETURN from the heater.

The coolant from the radiator feeds the pump, which pumps into the block, and the fluid from the block exits through the thermostat on its way back to the radiator.

Not to split hairs but I think these arrows are backward. I’m pretty sure the flow from radiator comes into the engine/water pump from the lower hose and returns through thermostat housing. In that case, the heater hose on the bottom radiator hose is the feed for heater core and the shutoff valve with hose to head is the return. Shutting the valve still stops flow in either case and as far as hose hookup, still the same so doesn’t really matter.
View attachment 3538397

The fluid feeding the heater leaves the head on top of the block, flows through the heater(s) then returns to the lower radiator hose. Note that the lower radiator hose feeding the water pump is lower pressure than the fluid in the head, promoting flow through the heater.

 

[igotta40]

It just seems logical that the supply to the heater coil would be the hottest coolant in the system, which would be coming off the head near the combustion chambers. The arrows in my illustration are correct.

 

[Chicagomax]

Thanks so much all for the information. I got my heater 98% installed, except I ran into a super stubborn 4-point bolt that is the one pointed out earlier in the thread. It’s been soaking in pb blaster and I ordered a 4-point socket set- hoping a little blow torch + impact wrench will release it, so I can “unplug” the port and finally have heat in my Chicago-based FJ!

Once I get this fine, I’m thinking I’ll start a separate thread to leverage the expertise on this forum so I can fix the SA shortcuts, likely the next one is the wayyyyyy too boosted power steering.

 

[Chicagomax]

Ok- one of the hardest parts of this job of adding the heater has proven to be finding a socket to remove the plug that’s currently in the coolant port. In case it helps anyone else in the future, the plug in mine is a 9/16 “pipe plug” female socket. Spent hours trying to figure that out, and hardware stores, auto parts stores, etc were all stumped! Turns out it’s a special order from Home Depot (or Amazon).

Hope that helps someone in the future!
Max

 

[Chicagomax]

The saga continues!

I’ve been working at least a week on getting the plug on the head out, and after marinating in PB blaster, heating with torch, using 1/2” impact wrench at 150psi, it’s not budging. So: I bought every contraption to take out a rusted bolt, including a bolt head grabber, and left handed drill bits, but nothing is getting it to budge.

So right now- I have a plug that’s stuck with a 1/2” hold drilled in the center (for left handed but), and I think I have 2 options left:

1) drill it completely out, hope the bolt crumbles/releases from the threads (without damaging the threads) and hope I don’t get too much debris in the coolant channel(obviously would flush right after), or:

2) weld a nut to the top and hope there’s enough metal left on the bolt and that the heat from the welding will do something my blow torch can’t. If I do #2, I’ll need to buy a welder (which could be a great excuse for that).

I’m away for work for a week, so I’ve got time to get a good game plan together: What would you all do?

Pics below for the state of the bolt(looks worse in pics…but not by a lot).

Thanks!!!

 

[MDH33]

How did it run? It might be worth just pulling the head off, taking it to a machine shop and having them get that bolt out and do a valve job on it while it's off if you don't know the history. You probably will want to get the manifolds machined together before reassembly as well. New headgasket and manifold gaskets, fresh valves... on your way to getting it base lined.

 

[Chicagomax]

How did it run? It might be worth just pulling the head off, taking it to a machine shop and having them get that bolt out and do a valve job on it while it's off if you don't know the history. You probably will want to get the manifolds machined together before reassembly as well. New headgasket and manifold gaskets, fresh valves... on your way to getting it base lined.

It ran well before, so hoping to not let this scope get out of control as there’s a ton of other projects I’d like to do…

 

[SergP]

Because you drilled a hole in the center did you try a screw extractor?
Maybe drill more and use a plug tap?

 

[SergP]

1) drill it completely out, hope the bolt crumbles/releases from the threads (without damaging the threads) and hope I don’t get too much debris in the coolant channel(obviously would flush right after), or:

You can also use a Magnetic pick up tool to remove some debris...?

 

[Chicagomax]

1) drill it completely out, hope the bolt crumbles/releases from the threads (without damaging the threads) and hope I don’t get too much debris in the coolant channel(obviously would flush right after), or:

You can also use a Magnetic pick up tool to remove some debris...?

Thanks Sage- I did try a screw extractor, and appreciate your vote for the drill out option(plus magnetic tool is a good add).

 

[igotta40]

If it were me, I would take the time to grind some of that out with a Dremel tool and chisel the rest. It would be tedious and time consuming but likely to cause the least damage.

 

[Chicagomax]

If it were me, I would take the time to grind some of that out with a Dremel tool and chisel the rest. It would be tedious and time consuming but likely to cause the least damage.

Grinding out with dremel I get and can do, but can you explain a bit how you would chisel?

 

[igotta40]

Grinding out with dremel I get and can do, but can you explain a bit how you would chisel?

Sure, once there’s enough material gone the plug may be thin enough to deform with a small chisel then try to work the bits out in pieces, I’ve done that on other stubborn pieces.

 

[igotta40]

They are normally made of relatively soft steel.

 

[charliemeyer007]

The tool you want is a cape chisel when you grind out most of the plug, then a hook tool to pry out the remaining thread segments.

What are Cape chisels used for?

The cape chisel has a thin cutting edge on a wedge-shaped head. The wedge shape provides extra support for the narrow cutting bit. Cape chisels are used to cut narrow slots in metal or masonry. Machinists also use the cape chisel to lock nuts and bolts so they will not loosen. Aug 29, 1999

Google Search

 

[Chicagomax]

Wow- never heard of cape chisel- Amazon here I come! Thanks all for the comments- welcome any other tips/siggestions, otherwise hope to follow up with successful story next week!