Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200 (2 Viewers)

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I personally just stick with OEM.
 
Agree with OEM only. I futz’d with the metal part listed here and couldn’t get the hoses to stop leaking, even with nicer worm gear clamps. Went back to OEM, no leaks at all.
 
When you say OEM you actually mean Toyota and not ones on Amazon with the same part number?
I wouldn’t take the risk of counterfeits on Amazon for my cooling system.
 
Does anyone have the part # for the actual hoses. I'm wanting to just go ahead and replace the whole thing.
 
My LC ia a 2009.

One of the parts isnt totally straightforward for a 2009 LC.

The one that is, comes out of the firewall toward the drivers side of the vehicle. “Outlet” 87209-60C01

“Inlet” (passenger side) depends on the paint marks of the existing part. Orange was originally 87209-60C10, no supercession, white mark was 87209-60C11 which has been superseded by 87209-60C12.

I have no idea whether they are cross compatible, or exactly where the paint mark would be located.

If you want new clamps you’ll need 6x 96136-42501. Probably a good idea to restore spring tension and get rid of any corrosion if present.
 
Hi Folks. A reminder to change the two heater hose T-pieces on the 200 Series with the 2UZ-FE engines.
Changing the T-pieces on the 100 Series Cruisers with the 2UZ-FE engines is well document, not so much for the 200 Series.

If the T-pieces are nearing 10 years old change them asap. It may just help you avoid very expensive engine rebuilds and a lot of tears.

I change my 2009 200 series T-pieces a few days back at 211,000km and just in time.
The plastic was already going brown and brittle and most notably a crack had already formed in one of the T's.
It's a quick easy job, maybe 30 min or so.

For the 200 Series, the OEM part # 87248-08030

T1.jpg
T2.jpg


T3.jpg
 
Same for the 3UR common here in the states as well 👌🏼
 
I’m not saying not to check these, and even to do them as PM. But mine are factory-perfect at 200k miles. I’d really like to figure out why some clearly degrade, and others don’t.
 
I’m not saying not to check these, and even to do them as PM. But mine are factory-perfect at 200k miles. I’d really like to figure out why some clearly degrade, and others don’t.
When I initially removed them they also looked shinny black and near perfect. Only once they dried out on the workbench for a day or two did I notice the brown discoloration and decay. The hairline crack I also only saw when I took them outside in the sunlight and closely inspected them.
One of them was noticeably in worse shape than the other, maybe it was on the hotter heater inlet line ?
 
When I initially removed them they also looked shinny black and near perfect. Only once they dried out on the workbench for a day or two did I notice the brown discoloration and decay. The hairline crack I also only saw when I took them outside in the sunlight and closely inspected them.
One of them was noticeably in worse shape than the other, maybe it was on the hotter heater inlet line ?

Great point about them drying out. I’ll exchange mine before a trip in a few weeks and let the originals dry to see if they do the same.
 
I’m not saying not to check these, and even to do them as PM. But mine are factory-perfect at 200k miles. I’d really like to figure out why some clearly degrade, and others don’t.
This line of inquiry will quickly dump you into the deep end of the rabbit hole. (e.g., like this) Much like the black alchemy of tire composition, making plastic components includes doses of black magic and luck/unluck. In industry terms, we're looking at a certain level of parts per million (ppm) failure rate as inevitable, because perfect process and material control is not possible. Things you probably could control for in theory, like the German advice not to buy a Montagsauto (car built on a Monday), you probably can't, in reality. I agree with the 'just replace w/ OE' philosophy on these bits, and don't look back. Maintenance good and drive much dirt.
 
Great point about them drying out. I’ll exchange mine before a trip in a few weeks and let the originals dry to see if they do the same.

What would be a good collection of Part Numbers (the T itself, any hoses, hose clamps, etc.) to do this job on my 2013 LC200?

Thanks
 
What would be a good collection of Part Numbers (the T itself, any hoses, hose clamps, etc.) to do this job on my 2013 LC200?

Thanks

Technically from toyota the hoses are only available as complete assemblies, each with a T and three molded hoses. That would be 87209-60C01 and 87209-60C12 plus 6x 96136-42501 to install them to all the hard pipes with fresh clamps.

If you still trust your rubber parts you can use the plastic T's listed earlier in this thread and the above clamps.

I have two of the T's on the shelf and a bunch of clamps that I'll install them with.. but may wait for another sale at one of the sites to buy both assemblies and get fresh rubber on there for the next 200k.

Plan to drop a bit of SLLC coolant when you do this.. but in my experience it won't be a lot.
 
just checked on the part numbers above... very reasonable actually @ $59 and $67 ish each for everything on those t's no reason to keep the old hoses..

I'll probably order them up and put them on the shelf for the next coolant flush at 160k-ish..
 
just checked on the part numbers above... very reasonable actually @ $59 and $67 ish each for everything on those t's no reason to keep the old hoses..

I'll probably order them up and put them on the shelf for the next coolant flush at 160k-ish..
My pro tip: once you’re past 100-150k, anytime you have to do any cooling system work involving removing hoses, just replace them and the clamps (which are theoretically single use).
 

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