I personally just stick with OEM.
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I wouldn’t take the risk of counterfeits on Amazon for my cooling system.When you say OEM you actually mean Toyota and not ones on Amazon with the same part number?
My LC ia a 2009.
Have you changed coolant? How often? I wonder if that is a factor.I’m not saying not to check these, and even to do them as PM. But mine are factory-perfect at 200k miles. I’d really like to figure out why some clearly degrade, and others don’t.
When I initially removed them they also looked shinny black and near perfect. Only once they dried out on the workbench for a day or two did I notice the brown discoloration and decay. The hairline crack I also only saw when I took them outside in the sunlight and closely inspected them.I’m not saying not to check these, and even to do them as PM. But mine are factory-perfect at 200k miles. I’d really like to figure out why some clearly degrade, and others don’t.
When I initially removed them they also looked shinny black and near perfect. Only once they dried out on the workbench for a day or two did I notice the brown discoloration and decay. The hairline crack I also only saw when I took them outside in the sunlight and closely inspected them.
One of them was noticeably in worse shape than the other, maybe it was on the hotter heater inlet line ?
Yes at 105k, then again at 180.Have you changed coolant? How often? I wonder if that is a factor.
This line of inquiry will quickly dump you into the deep end of the rabbit hole. (e.g., like this) Much like the black alchemy of tire composition, making plastic components includes doses of black magic and luck/unluck. In industry terms, we're looking at a certain level of parts per million (ppm) failure rate as inevitable, because perfect process and material control is not possible. Things you probably could control for in theory, like the German advice not to buy a Montagsauto (car built on a Monday), you probably can't, in reality. I agree with the 'just replace w/ OE' philosophy on these bits, and don't look back. Maintenance good and drive much dirt.I’m not saying not to check these, and even to do them as PM. But mine are factory-perfect at 200k miles. I’d really like to figure out why some clearly degrade, and others don’t.
Great point about them drying out. I’ll exchange mine before a trip in a few weeks and let the originals dry to see if they do the same.
What would be a good collection of Part Numbers (the T itself, any hoses, hose clamps, etc.) to do this job on my 2013 LC200?
Thanks
My pro tip: once you’re past 100-150k, anytime you have to do any cooling system work involving removing hoses, just replace them and the clamps (which are theoretically single use).just checked on the part numbers above... very reasonable actually @ $59 and $67 ish each for everything on those t's no reason to keep the old hoses..
I'll probably order them up and put them on the shelf for the next coolant flush at 160k-ish..