Ive recommended your harness for the holley headlights too haha. They worked for my buddy who wasnt on mud
Headlight upgrade FJ60? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Beehanger
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Definitely heard that it works but I want to be careful what I promise, that’s all. They also work for mini trucks, MkI & MkII MR2s, and a couple other oddball applications. But they were specifically designed for the Koito kit in a 60.Ive recommended your harness for the holley headlights too haha. They worked for my buddy who wasnt on mud
I do have a prototype of a 24V version sitting here whenever @FJBen and I can connect. Will work for 70 Series. I think all 60s were 12V electrics even when they had a 24V starter, right?
(Sorry to pull you into the slums of the 60 forum Ben!)
FJBen
SILVER Star
I like the 60 series
. My 70 is 12v, all aussie spec 70 series are 12v, all Prados are 12v, some Canada are 12v then other countries are 24v when diesel. So you get a good mix of 12 and 24v, not sure if that makes a difference.
For the 70 Series I want to design the HBIM for 24V so that I have one product I can sling that satisfies all needs. The pinout is different on a 60 vs a 70 though, so they’re all going to be fairly similar.I like the 60 series
So you get a good mix of 12 and 24v, not sure if that makes a difference.
garfieldthecat
SILVER Star
Thank you for this. I will put the links for the two I was looking at below.On my 1988 FJ62 I installed Vintage Car LED. I think they are brighter than Holley and are certainly cheaper. They do not require modifying the existing harness and vendor does quality products Lenses are Hella. I worked with the vendor to get it right the first time. Simple plug and play.
7" LED Headlight Kits | 5.75" LED Headlight Kits | LED Headlights
LED headlight kits for all US and international vehicles with 7 inch and 5.75 inch Round Headlights. See specific specs to ensure a perfect fit.vintagecarleds.com
The 7" round lights from Vintage Car LED with Hella have a similar price to the Holleys ($429 for the pair from Vintage Car and $431.90 for the pair from Holley)
The VC LEDs say 6000 Kelvin vs 5700 Kelvin for the Holley.
Still leaning towards the Holley because Cruiser Trash's HBIM is proven to work with them on a 60, but the VC LEDs look like a great option too, especially for plug and play functionality.
VC5000 ULTIMATE 7 INCH LED HEADLIGHT KIT - Vintage Car LEDs
Each kit includes: 2 assembled Glass H4 DOT spec 7" housings 2 LED bulbs.
vintagecarleds.com
If I can ever find some 3800-4200K LEDs with sort of plain looking glass lenses and a sharp cutoff, I’m in. I would love a minimum of 2500lm from each side and a quality harness. I’m not an unreasonable man to please, but that doesn’t exist.
Personally - for me - even 5000K doesn’t look right on a 60. Every single LED out there seems to be either a 2000K yellow fog lamp bulb or else “super mega extra bright blue-white!” which my eyes find pretty useless as far as visual data is concerned.
I love my Koitos, but also want to be kind to my alternator.
Personally - for me - even 5000K doesn’t look right on a 60. Every single LED out there seems to be either a 2000K yellow fog lamp bulb or else “super mega extra bright blue-white!” which my eyes find pretty useless as far as visual data is concerned.
I love my Koitos, but also want to be kind to my alternator.
ntsqd
technerd
I think Baja Designs hit the Kelvin just about right for best useful illumination (at least in the Squad Pros), but those would be a bit too white to look period in anything.
I tend to run H4 halogens in everything and am not afraid to transplant a stock alternator with higher output (I do not 'hot-rod' alternators). Most of the LED lights lack heaters and I don't want to be the guy with no headlights because they've got frozen over lenses. Then when I do need more light all three of my 4WD's have or will soon have (ordered, not yet arrived) a set of BD Squad Pro combo's that are carefully aimed. If I need more than that I'm off the pavement, and likely going faster than I should.
I tend to run H4 halogens in everything and am not afraid to transplant a stock alternator with higher output (I do not 'hot-rod' alternators). Most of the LED lights lack heaters and I don't want to be the guy with no headlights because they've got frozen over lenses. Then when I do need more light all three of my 4WD's have or will soon have (ordered, not yet arrived) a set of BD Squad Pro combo's that are carefully aimed. If I need more than that I'm off the pavement, and likely going faster than I should.
By the way I have been running VCL in my vintage mustang for over ten years. Never an issue, never an overheat and my old eyes like the white (not blue) lighting at night. I also have the matching VCL fog lamps. I have never had to upgrade wiring harness, alternator or the headlight housing. It all fits, it all works and is within my budget. I'm happy! I do like the white light over the sad yellow on vintage vehicles and the beam focus on the road is really good. Overall a good safety upgrade.Thank you for this. I will put the links for the two I was looking at below.
The 7" round lights from Vintage Car LED with Hella have a similar price to the Holleys ($429 for the pair from Vintage Car and $431.90 for the pair from Holley)
The VC LEDs say 6000 Kelvin vs 5700 Kelvin for the Holley.
Still leaning towards the Holley because Cruiser Trash's HBIM is proven to work with them on a 60, but the VC LEDs look like a great option too, especially for plug and play functionality.
VC5000 ULTIMATE 7 INCH LED HEADLIGHT KIT - Vintage Car LEDs
Each kit includes: 2 assembled Glass H4 DOT spec 7" housings 2 LED bulbs.
That’s probably my next step is shoehorning an 80 Series (3FE) alternator in there. I also have four 85w halogen PIAA driving lights up front, and running all 6 halogens bogs the system voltage down. Really, under 1500rpm I have to kill two of them. LED auxiliary lights to replace the PIAAs would be my move, but again … I want the look to be fitting. I’ve seen the BD stuff on other trucks and it’s is impressive, but I personally can’t get over the look of a robot-looking square pod on the front of my 60 haha.
That’s about 30-35 amps of current draw when they’re all on
I took my stock 60 alternator to a local old school shop and they put the guts of a 62 alternator inside - from 55A max output to 65A. The curve seems about the same though, so like all alternators they’re putting out a fraction of that at low rpm. The guy gave me a 10% smaller pulley but warned me it would cause the alternator to get hotter so I haven’t run it.
ntsqd
technerd
With enough black around them they tend to get a little lost visually, but I get it. I would be working out how hide them on the FJ60 if I still had it. FSB front jpg.
I put a CS144 GM alternator on my '84 22R. Before anyone gets too excited, it wasn't a bolt-on, I had to create the bracket and the tensioner for that. I forget which version I used, but I *think* it was the 105A version. I mostly did that because I couldn't buy an OEM external regulator that would last more than a year.
Did the MR2 alt swap on the 4rnnr. (60A to ~100A)
Did the E-250 large case 6G alt swap on the FSB (95A to 130A)
May not need to do anything to the LQ4 going into the Wagon as it 105A already, but optional equipment is a 145A.
I put a CS144 GM alternator on my '84 22R. Before anyone gets too excited, it wasn't a bolt-on, I had to create the bracket and the tensioner for that. I forget which version I used, but I *think* it was the 105A version. I mostly did that because I couldn't buy an OEM external regulator that would last more than a year.
Did the MR2 alt swap on the 4rnnr. (60A to ~100A)
Did the E-250 large case 6G alt swap on the FSB (95A to 130A)
May not need to do anything to the LQ4 going into the Wagon as it 105A already, but optional equipment is a 145A.
What we went with.
First I’ve heard of using an MR2 alt, how’s the curve on that? Good current capacity at lower rpms?
ntsqd
technerd
All that I can tell you about it is that it worked. The low current connector is a match for the plug in the OEM '88 V6 wire harness. The high current connection is obviously simple. Bolt it on, bash in the shield at the rear a little to gain enough movement to get the belt on it, and it works. I forget even where I came across the tech, but I bet you now know enough to be able to find out more.
