Hard Top Restoration threads, where are they? (1 Viewer)

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airon23

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I've searched my own "watching" because I thought I had one saved. I searched the FAQs. I've done just a regular search but can't seem to find a good restoration of hard top thread on here anywhere, but I'm sure I've seen one. Can anyone point me to the best one. I swear I saw one not too long ago, but it might be under a thread title not including the key words Hard Top Restoration.
Thank you in advance.
 
@FJ40Mitchell has a comprehensive procedure, documented in this thread.

I don’t know how good it is... I’ve never had a desire to restore mine.

I also know @honk documented a very thorough fiberglass procedure somewhere.

To get a list of MUD threads, associated, in some fashion, with @fj40 hardtop repair, google:

fj40 hardtop repair site:ih8mud.com
 
Man there are a ton of guys who have done tops but the threads are challenging to find because so many terms are used. Cap, lid, top, roof, hard top, hardtop. @airon23 what all do you think your top is gunna need. Fiberglass repair, new gutters, new headliner? Have you made a decision on doing gelcoat or or single stage paint? Gel coat guys that come to mind: @bj40green, @ginmtb, @JohnL. Single stage guys: @Splangy, @MoCoNative, @rkymtnflyfisher @thecrazygreek
If you need to rivet new gutters @emac has been involved in those discussions.

My gutters were fine so I left them in place. Took them to bare metal as best I could. Sanded the roof, applied high build primer, sanded smooth, then SEM self leveling sealer in gutter,
Epoxy sealer, sanded smooth again:confused:, then single stage paint. Overkill, but I’m actually wetsanding the top right now.


Hey mate, I'm a boatbuilder here in New Zealand. I wouldn't recommend gelcoat. It's best applied to a waxed mould so when you apply it to the outside of a product you have to add in wax and styrene so that it doesn't stay sticky. You then will be left with a very matte finish and the orange peel from the gun. You have to then wet sand it in stages up to 2000g and polish it up. If you sand through you'll need to do it all again as touch ups are not flawless. I've you've ever looked at and old gelcoat boat (even a few years old) you'll see the gelcoat is dull and porous and maybe cracked. Not worth the effort in my opinion.
A good quality automotive or marine paint will be easier, faster and give you less heartache at the end of the day.
 
@thebigredrocker right along the lines of what you're describing you did, is what I'm looking to do. The gutters have some home depot goop that's probably been there for 20 years or looks like it at least. There are 2 small holes and a couple scrapes from roof rack in the fiberglass so I would fix the holes and sand and repair the scrapes then prime and paint the top with some cygnus white rattle can ordered from Cruiser Corps. I think my biggest thing are the gutters, and if I have to scrape it all out and use something like the SEM self leveling sealer you're describing but I don't know what that is. Obviously the PO put that goop to try to seal it so it probably needs it.
I really don't want to, nor do I think I need to but maybe, remove the rivets and redo those. It looks like such a pain and I don't exactly have a ton of space as we mostly use the garage for parking our cars.

I'll see if I can post a picture of the hard top.

Keep in mind this isn't a full restoration or anything I'm really just trying to what I keep calling refresh my FJ40. So this isn't exactly expected to be show piece quality, but I do want it to look nice.
 
I’ll vouch for the SEM seam sealer, I may even have a spare package in a box somewhere. If you need the applicator gun let me know, I’ll let you borrow it if you go with the SEM stuff.

I rattle canned my top a few years back, about 6 cans of gloss white and a few coats of clear.
 
A good wire brush and a dental pick from the gun cleaning kit is very useful to get the old sealer out of the cracks.

And new rivets for the top.

I have a box somewhere, in a box, in my garage. Somewhere.

Aside from the gutter the rest should be straight forward, sand, clean, prep, paint.
 
Turns out the metal gutters look pretty good no real rust. But there are several rivets that are broken which might explain the need for the sealing goop. So I'm not too worried about the fiberglass I think I can handle that. I didn't realize so much paint needed but probably makes sense I guess.

IMG_20181130_193231.jpg


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Depends on what you want to know about hardtop... look below —————>


Feel free to add, borrow, steel. ¥
 
Dremel makes a couple attachments that I found were perfect to clean up the gutter metal and not vaporize the fiberglass. Think I posted pictures of gutter clean up.

I probably used too much SEM. :meh: Here’s how full 3 tubes will get you
21F06976-6181-4C6C-AA58-B7625CDABFCA.jpeg
F4A25D24-7CC5-40B4-BF2C-4AF1038FBD1A.jpeg


If you want a more durable paint mixed in Toyota colors, check out the spraymax 2K. It’s basically single stage from a rattle can. More costly than hvlp, but super simple. The patented can has a built in hardener pod you puncture before you shoot. I’ve ordered it from 66autocolor. Great paint supplier to deal with.
 
Here is what I used - not exactly gel coat but easy to apply and has held up well. A boat guy recommended this stuff to help with the spider cracking and flexing. The stuff to the right was for bonding the fiberglass rain gutter to the top. I too probably filled my gutter too deeply oh well. And then I went cheap and used the appliance epoxy spray paint (Rustoleium, biscuit). Easy touch ups if needed and I want to say under $5 per can. I used a few and put a bunch of layers on it. If you go the rattlecan route, get the little spray gun attachment. I thought those were hokey but then used it and wow what a difference!

Builds - Won a '74 40 on a coin toss...

2bfb0dd9-704b-4751-8ad9-556be88db337-jpeg.1557180
 
Dremel makes a couple attachments that I found were perfect to clean up the gutter metal and not vaporize the fiberglass. Think I posted pictures of gutter clean up.

I probably used too much SEM. :meh: Here’s how full 3 tubes will get you
View attachment 1843684 View attachment 1843685

If you want a more durable paint mixed in Toyota colors, check out the spraymax 2K. It’s basically single stage from a rattle can. More costly than hvlp, but super simple. The patented can has a built in hardener pod you puncture before you shoot. I’ve ordered it from 66autocolor. Great paint supplier to deal with.
@thebigredrocker, that top color looks great! Do you happen to remember the color you had mixed by 66autocolor?
BuckMark
 
@BuckMark For my lid, I used Limco Supreme plus single stage in 033 and shot it with an HVLP gun. I submitted my order online and entered some 1980's Toyota truck model that came in 033. Can't recall which model. You can Ping me if you need more help. I can dig through my files or I'll call them and see if they have records. Post #30 here—> 76 FJ40 Resto advice needed (now a documentation) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/76-fj40-resto-advice-needed-now-a-documentation.784068/page-2

I got it from 66autocolor. I have also bought spray cans of single stage mixed in SprayMax cans for small bits. In the link above there's a photo of my bezel shot w/SprayMax single stage. Not sure what brand of paint they loaded in the cans. I think you could request whatever quality paint you want. They were great to talk to over the phone and shipped out almost instantly.
 
For future reference, roof threads:

(Look for FJ40Mitchell's post within for a good, overall guide)







 

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