Haltech Elite 2000 ECU install on a FZJ 80 SC (10 Viewers)

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Looks good. What lights are in the bumper?

I think it’s interesting that on this site we can look beyond geopolitics, religion, etc. and focus on our universal love of these vehicles. If only our leaders could grasp that concept.


10” Baja Designs S8 Driving/Combo LED with Amber lenses. I had to bend the small brackets that came with them to fit that angel and they fit like a glove in that vent space.

There is no money or power in peace and harmony unfortunately.
 
What kind of torque do you get out of that set up



Some of us are punished, with a ECU that you really need to know how to rewire it, to run a stand alone I did a diesel swap and I run a stand alone just for my transmission, and TPS Tach cruise. Your cruiser is pretty cool

Will know the torque once we are done with the tune. Just dropped her off at the garage that will do the parts install and they will deliver it to the tuner which is around the corner as I’m traveling for a few days and should come back to a finished project. Will keep you all posted. I have asked for an increase in torque.
 
Looks good you will have plenty of fuel pump and injectors there to far exceed the TRD SC setup!

From what I’m reading it better to have a bit for fuel than you need. Let’s hope it isn’t too much.
 
Will know the torque once we are done with the tune. Just dropped her off at the garage that will do the parts install and they will deliver it to the tuner which is around the corner as I’m traveling for a few days and should come back to a finished project. Will keep you all posted. I have asked for an increase in torque.

Thats pretty cool, I used to do stuff with, cars and bigger injectors and fuel pumps, now I just do diesel swaps on these things
 
I removed the seats and peeled back the carpet so the garage doing the fuel pump doesn’t get my seats grubby or loose bolts when reinstalling the seats.

Supplied gaskets and washers for the job and should be an easy job for them.

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I don't have anything useful to contribute here except to say why are folks from other countries write English so well? I couldn't just jump on another country's landcruiser forum and be able to communicate so effectively. Kudos.
 
I had to look up where Jeddah was located. Maybe they should just let IH8MUD solve the world's problems. We can all find common ground.

On another note, what year is your 80? I stood and looked at my 94 this a.m. and I'm really liking your headlights/grill.
 
I had to look up where Jeddah was located. Maybe they should just let IH8MUD solve the world's problems. We can all find common ground.

On another note, what year is your 80? I stood and looked at my 94 this a.m. and I'm really liking your headlights/grill.
It’s a 96 model
 
I don't have anything useful to contribute here except to say why are folks from other countries write English so well? I couldn't just jump on another country's landcruiser forum and be able to communicate so effectively. Kudos.

Coz we learnt English in school and lived in English speaking countries. I wish I had leant japanse at school instead looking back.

I had to look up where Jeddah was located. Maybe they should just let IH8MUD solve the world's problems. We can all find common ground.

On another note, what year is your 80? I stood and looked at my 94 this a.m. and I'm really liking your headlights/grill.

JEDDAH is where Mother Eve was buried. Bet you didn’t know that

I’ll take close up pictures of the install when I’m back with the truck.
 
Ok so after a bit of drama with the fuel regulator install leaking. I took it to another workshop to fix and they did an outstanding job on mounting it and piping it correctly.

I took it back to the tuner to finish the job.

He was happy with the fuel delivery after installing the pump. The line was constant/flat in his graph.

So the reading are as follows with 315s which apparently does not give the most accurate reading.

Torque 333.95
HP at the flywheel 227.1
HP at the wheel 185

So what’s the HP of the truck now ?

Boost range is from 4 to 6

Timing is set at 10

Still has a relay ticking noise down by the clutch pedal and we still haven’t figured out how to make the sub fuel tank switch work when I need it so it’s always on.

There tends to be some white smoke when releasing the gas pedal after a full throttle on the dyno. So will be adding an oil catch can to see if that solves it. If not then it’s open her up and overhaul the rings which I don’t want to do.

We kept the idle high to stop the engine from shaking from time to time.

Took it for a drive yesterday and noticed the idle is pretty high at around 2000 so will go back to adjust that and hopefully.

Overall I’m happy with the power and response and now it’s just a matter of tweaking it.

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Ok forgot to mention that now when I indicate my battery voltage meter also goes up and down with each tick of the signal indicator.

I have recently installed a mean green alternator for a two battery system (but have not completed that project) but will need to chase that up. Might need a new battery. Will report back on that gremlin
 
Smoke after a hard pull may be oil and vapors coming out of the crank case going up thru the PVC valve into the intake and getting burned. When you are in boost, there is NO vacuum in the intake manifold to purge the crank case blow by vapors. Even really tight engines have some amount of blow by. So, when you get out of boost, there is a sudden surge of vacuum in the intake and it sucks all that nasty stuff up into the top of the motor and burns it as fuel, kind of. You can kind of test this theory by removing the PVC line from the intake and blocking that port. Then run the engine up for a hard pull in boost and watch how much crap comes out of the PVC hose.
 
Smoke after a hard pull may be oil and vapors coming out of the crank case going up thru the PVC valve into the intake and getting burned. When you are in boost, there is NO vacuum in the intake manifold to purge the crank case blow by vapors. Even really tight engines have some amount of blow by. So, when you get out of boost, there is a sudden surge of vacuum in the intake and it sucks all that nasty stuff up into the top of the motor and burns it as fuel, kind of. You can kind of test this theory by removing the PVC line from the intake and blocking that port. Then run the engine up for a hard pull in boost and watch how much crap comes out of the PVC hose.

Cool that’s what the tuner said. So will get a catch can installed. I saw this on google and I like how it simple and you can see the oil

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You need to reroute that line entirely. You can’t have it routed to the intake manifold or you are pressurizing it, keeping it from doing its job at all.

Can you explain this further? I have an oil catch can connected just like the photo above and it seems to be working fine and has for 5 years. It catches about 30ml of oil between each change. Were you referring to another picture?
 
Do you have a turbo or supercharger?

Can you explain this further? I have an oil catch can connected just like the photo above and it seems to be working fine and has for 5 years. It catches about 30ml of oil between each change. Were you referring to another picture?
 
You need to reroute that line entirely. You can’t have it routed to the intake manifold or you are pressurizing it, keeping it from doing its job at all.

Scottryana I have been reading up about catch cans on mud since my post. Could you elaborate on your post as I didn’t come across a reference to rerouting and pressure.

Thanks

Mo
 

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