H42 and transfer case Rebuild - a few questions (2 Viewers)

[Curtice]

I have an FSM...been using it for the whole process so far. That is why I was curious about the thickness gauge super mentioned, since the FSM doesn’t say anything about it at this point...I did the gap tests in the appropriate spots and all were in spec. Been following all the steps as best I could. FSM I think though assumes I know some things which I don’t .

This is all the fsm says about this part:

Not very descriptive

But I think what you said makes sense. I’m at the point now where I would need to flip and use a pipe. I’ll try that. Once the bearing is in all the way, I’ll need to press the output shaft again, as you said.

If that doesn’t sound right, let me know.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Sorry about the mix up earlier. My memory sucks these days. You can download it and add it to your iBook app if you have an iPhone. I’ve had to use it via cloud on my phone a couple times. So it’s a good idea to have a mobile version. I’ll print a physical copy of the relevant pages for different projects.

 

[Curtice]

All good! I just appreciate any help at all!

 

[peesalot]

Using old drum brake axle grease, the thick dirty yellow stuff to stick that thrust washer in place helps alot, works for setting the roller pins where the input & output meet as well.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks. My problem now is I didn’t know that and am now about 80% there. I’d have to pull everything out to do that. I’m hoping I can make it work without doing that. But will if I have to...

 

[Curtice]

Ok, so the pipe worked great. Got the bearing pressed into the case. Pressed just far enough that everything is touching. I was worried about pushing too hard.

So now I have to finish pressing the shaft into the bearing, doing what I started yesterday. Here is the gap I have remaining.

Myproblem now that I am worried (as I have been all along) is that when I flip it over to press it, the spacer thrust washer will fall off the pin and become misaligned and no room now to grease. I think I’ll press the shaft out until there is enough room...

 

[rflegal]

Nicely done. Is first gear binding? Go back and look at the pic of mine before disassemble, Post #44 I think. That might help.

 

[rflegal]

Ah, now I see. You still need to finish. Yeah, this side is trouble isn't it.
What about a thin piece of card (cereal box) cut to slide in and duct tape to hold until you get it pressed in enough to remove?

Or just multiple card board wedged in and pulled out as you go?

 

[Curtice]

Good idea on the cardboard! I don’t think I have far to go before it will stay in on its own. I’ll try that this afternoon when my son gets back.

 

[Curtice]

Ok we actually just tried it. Cardboard trick worked great. I think I’m where I need to be. I didn’t know how far to press...it’s hard to feel when it starts hitting resistance and I was worried about going too hard. I’m hoping when I do the input shaft side, that it will press the tiny bit more if needed.

 

[rflegal]

That looks really good. Great job. Compare well with the pic I had.
Didn't get to mine today - put the engine in instead. Now I'm motivated.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks. Tomorrow or Monday will hopefully get the input on, then the countershaft bearings. I might have some questions there...FSM says to install the front and rear counter shaft bearings at the same time, striking them with a hammer alternating. I assume I should follow this procedure, but I have my nice fancy new press. What do folks usually do here?

 

[rflegal]

OK - Mine's done. Even temporarily remounted the shifter tower, etc and checked all the gears - she works good, good and smooth.
Now just need final cleanup, gaskets, front seal, re-mate to the rebuilt transfer with a new seal, then get a hernia lifting and transporting to the truck for re-install.

Pic below of back together. Yes, BTW, the cardboard trick does work well. I tried to show off and use the sticky lube.... get to do it again, doh.

And then there's the snap rings.....
I don't wanna talk about it.

Though I would be interested if there were tricks beyond the multiple set of excellent snap ring pliers I own and had to manipulate with greasy hands for almost 3 hrs to get the four little dang things on.

I also put in a pic of the press with the SWAG plates. Man those suckers are heavy. I can only handle one at a time. Actually, all of it's heavy... I'm doing this all by myself after church today. Three or four trips back and forth to the press and I've had my workout for the week. And no pinched fingers, yeah!

I'm tired - gonna go take a nap.

 

[Curtice]

Awesome pictures, thanks. Did you use the press on the input side, with all of those roller bearings?

 

[rflegal]

Not on the input side, it tapped right in. Uses a wood block and a ball peene. Also used the green tranny assemblee goo on the rollers. That worked real well but made a little "hydraulic" back pressure going in. NBD.

Oh, almost forgot to pass on another tip. I have a small fridge/freezer in my shop. I keep the bearings in there till I'm ready to press in and they go in the case easier. Doesn't seem to effect the shaft fit much and it seems to work well. Contact with the shaft must warm up the inner race quick enough.
Well that and we hit 104 degrees F this afternoon.

 

[rflegal]

Thanks. Tomorrow or Monday will hopefully get the input on, then the countershaft bearings. I might have some questions there...FSM says to install the front and rear counter shaft bearings at the same time, striking them with a hammer alternating. I assume I should follow this procedure, but I have my nice fancy new press. What do folks usually do here?

On the counter shaft I seated first by tapping in as mentioned and then had to lift the whole thing over to the press for final pressing in order to get the snap rings on. Shoulda took some more pics. The front countershaft bearing has en external ring to seat against the housing, just like the mains, so I had to get that front to center to sit solid on the shaft using the press while supporting the backside of the shaft on a plate, otherwise the groove for the front countershaft snap ring wasn't exposed enough.

 

[Curtice]

Good stuff and great tips. I picked up some assemblee goo also. Did you use this in place of the grease to hold the rollers in position?

Hopefully will get to this today.

 

[Curtice]

Also, my rebuild kit has these seals. Maybe dumb question...but I can’t figure out what they are for?

 

[rflegal]

Mine did too - I believe they're transfer case seals for the output shaft.

 

[Curtice]

Thanks. We got the input side tapped in, rollers in green goo. It spins, so I figure that is good Now working on the countershaft...this is a bit of a pain too.