Seal location (sorry about the writing) - Mine didn't ave one either but its in the diagram.
H42 and transfer case Rebuild - a few questions
- Thread starter Curtice
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
To answer your question, see this thread, post #109
forum.ih8mud.com
H42 Transmission, Tcase, eBrake Rebuild in a '76 FJ40`
I forget what that is, but it looks like some kind of oil slinger or washer. Check the parts diagram. It doesn't look particularly important, like a gear. You need to support the other end of the counter shaft when you walk the bearings on. Otherwise, you will just be pounding the shaft back...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #103
Great thanks. Ok, from that reading and looking at my disassembly pictures. I think this is the correct order and orientation of the counter shaft rear bearing. I’m about positive I have it correct, but the question still remains then - why is the grooved side of the bearing with the non-rounded edge going inwards? It seems the bearing is made to go the other way. But if I do it the other way, it is backwards and the retainer ring (loose outer inner race collar) doesn’t fit in the bearing properly.
Correct order and orientation:
Pictures showing how the loose collar fits in the ring one one side of the bearing, but not the other:
Ive emailed @cruiseroutfit as well, just to double check that I have the correct bearing in my kit I purchased.
Correct order and orientation:
Pictures showing how the loose collar fits in the ring one one side of the bearing, but not the other:
Ive emailed @cruiseroutfit as well, just to double check that I have the correct bearing in my kit I purchased.
Re: Seal. I just installed my t-case back onto my transmission. Yes, there is a seal and a gasket.
The gasket is obvious (sandwiches between the trans and t-case), and a seal that seats into the t-case that the transfer case gear rides in. At least, this is the seal you pointed out above.
Front cover seal (front of trans that inserts into the throwout bearing/clutch):
Trans to transfer-case seal:
Installed in the front of the transfer case where the t-case/trans meet:
The gasket is obvious (sandwiches between the trans and t-case), and a seal that seats into the t-case that the transfer case gear rides in. At least, this is the seal you pointed out above.
Front cover seal (front of trans that inserts into the throwout bearing/clutch):
Trans to transfer-case seal:
Installed in the front of the transfer case where the t-case/trans meet:
Yeah, got one with the transfer rebuild kit. Ones in the transmission rebuild must be duplicates.
There are a few things duplicated between the transmission and t-case rebuild kits. (which is good, as to rebuild either one, they need to be separated, and the seal and gasket changed). Good stuff.
Still figuring out my countershaft. Georg at Cruiser Bros is out until tomorrow. I suspect the kit they sold me is updated and good for an H55 as well as the H42 (after reviewing the post I ref'd above). May not make any difference; I suspect key is that the ball bearings are in front and the rollers are in back. We'll see - on hold.
- Thread starter
- #108
Good stuff here. Looking forward to the answer to help confirm mine.
Cruiser outfitters is looking into my question as well.
Cruiser outfitters is looking into my question as well.
OK. Talked to Georg at Cruiser Bros. If I understood right, the (big) external snap ring MUST be on the front BALL bearing. The front retainer housing "clamps" it in place and the rear bearing, which must be the roller, floats.
My bearings from his kit were reversed as far as the external ring, no ring or groove on the front, one on the rear. I had already installed the rear CS bearing with the big snap ring, so the internal flange portion is on there (and I have no desire to try and take it off). The shaft snap ring groove in the rear of the CS isn't exposed as it needs to be. This doesn't work.
Called Georg. Solution is to remove the external ring from the rear bearing (so it floats), he's sending a new front bearing WITH the snap ring. Good on ya Georg and Cruiser Bros.!
My learning, and I've read it here, check your parts BEFORE you start installing and make NO assumptions.
His is why the external HAS to go on the front. (stole your pic Curtice, thanks)
My bearings from his kit were reversed as far as the external ring, no ring or groove on the front, one on the rear. I had already installed the rear CS bearing with the big snap ring, so the internal flange portion is on there (and I have no desire to try and take it off). The shaft snap ring groove in the rear of the CS isn't exposed as it needs to be. This doesn't work.
Called Georg. Solution is to remove the external ring from the rear bearing (so it floats), he's sending a new front bearing WITH the snap ring. Good on ya Georg and Cruiser Bros.!
My learning, and I've read it here, check your parts BEFORE you start installing and make NO assumptions.
His is why the external HAS to go on the front. (stole your pic Curtice, thanks)
Truthfully. I've done about 3 or 4 manuals over my lifetime, not to count the clutch jobs and a couple of automatics and this H42 had to be one of the biggest pains. Simple in operation; just a pain in the...
- Thread starter
- #111
Thanks. So this is in line with what I thought. My problem is removing the ring from the rear bearing is fine, but I still think it is backwards...I would have to put the grooved side in first (where the ring goes), but since it has sharp edges, it won’t go in that way big I reverse it, it is not in properly from what I can tell. I’m still waiting to hear back from cruiser outfitters.
If anyone has a picture of how a newer bearing is oriented in the case, would live to see it.
If anyone has a picture of how a newer bearing is oriented in the case, would live to see it.
Well, we know the flanged side is in first, but your question is which side of the outer race. I still have my old CS bearing, I will check it tonight and I'm sure there are "witness" marks from the old install. I'll post pics if there are.
- Thread starter
- #113
This pic is from earlier in the thread. But this part I believe should be facing out. The ring highlighted in yellow is smaller diameter on one side than the other. This is why I think it should face out. The bearing with the weld marks is my old one. I welded my puller to it to pull it...that is how I know this side was facing out.
Problem is, like I said, on the new bearing the sharp edge on the outer race would go in, and that doesn’t work.
For comparison, here is the other side with the ring larger, pretty much flush at the outer race. This side should go in, I think.
Problem is, like I said, on the new bearing the sharp edge on the outer race would go in, and that doesn’t work.
For comparison, here is the other side with the ring larger, pretty much flush at the outer race. This side should go in, I think.
Last edited:
Well, the manual definitely shows the smaller ring to the outside, like you say. They're both KOYO, how do the numbers compare?
- Thread starter
- #115
Edited - I was wrong on my PN. They are the same
Original PN: 06NUP0820
New PN: 06NUP0820AN
Not sure what the AN is...
Original PN: 06NUP0820
New PN: 06NUP0820AN
Not sure what the AN is...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #116
Is your rear bearing like mine? Do you have a picture of it?
Last edited:
It is installed but yes. It has an ext. ring. I removed it. I had no issues installing.
- Thread starter
- #118
Great thanks. ok. So looks like you installed with the larger ring to the outside. Maybe I am worried too much about this?
I found another thread last night (Docs rebuild) and he did it this way as well.
It would mean installing opposite of how the inner race came assembled - on my bearing, the flanged part came assembled on the larger ring part.
I found another thread last night (Docs rebuild) and he did it this way as well.
It would mean installing opposite of how the inner race came assembled - on my bearing, the flanged part came assembled on the larger ring part.
Last edited:
Truthfully, I'm not sure it really matters as long as the flange in against the seat on the CS (internal). The key, as I understand is that the roller unit is in the rear for axial stress and that the outer race is able to float for expansion/contraction of the CS. The front external snap ring secures the assembly with the casting.
That being said, the MS is not floating, rings on both ends. It can only expand to rear as needed. Who know, 50-year old design.
I agree - with peesalot - mine's staying this way. Once the new front arrives she's goin in.
That being said, the MS is not floating, rings on both ends. It can only expand to rear as needed. Who know, 50-year old design.
I agree - with peesalot - mine's staying this way. Once the new front arrives she's goin in.