Glucosamine treatment for an old warrior (1 Viewer)

[65swb45]

I get the concept of keeping it as close as possible to the frame corner. I just like seeing photo examples.
Of those two pics: Having the fluid connections that close to the cross member, how are the hoses routed? On mine the body work doesn't allow much clearance for the hoses. It's always been a point of concern. For the most part I've been satisfied with the way the steering performed over the years. Never any issues even with stock components beyond the pitman arm.

When it was done, I had neither the skills or the tools to do it. That was then. I wouldn't run away from improving the mounting now. I'm not sure what I'll do at this point. I got more cracks elsewhere under the front fender braces that I'm planning to deal with 1st. That and engine/drivetrain mounting relocation. And the list continues....

This truck is a collection of mods, repairs, improvements and P.O. crime corrections. All done over time as skills and/or funds allowed. Sometimes the skills/funds factor made for compromises. Years of mod-on top of old bad ideas-on top of old repairs have left me with a curious collection stuff. Fortunately it's all worked and not let me down.

Now is the time for the rewind button.

Well said, well said. Believe it or not, I am actually in a very similar boat! I've got a POS Saginaw conversion on Ruftoys that ,just like you I did not have the time or skilz for when someone offered to do it for me...FOR FREE! As expected, I got what I paid for. I've just been a bit luckier than you in the intervening time. I REALLY need to make the time to cut that junk off my rig and do it right.

To answer your tech question, yes the hose routing is tight. When I did Sacha's truck 6 years ago, I notched about a 1/4" out of the bottom of the bib to make it fit. It wasn't noticable at all unless you were looking DIRECTLY at it. When I did my LWB 45, just turning the hoses off at an angle towards the bib hinge was enough to get them under the bib without any cutting. When I did "THE FJ45" build, I had a 3/8" spacer under the bib hinge to help reallign the front clip with the body-lifted cab, and that was enough to route the hoses straight back under the bib without any cutting.

Bottom line: don't let the tail wag the dog. Optimizing the steering box location and angle is the FIRST PRIORITY. EVERYTHING ELSE can be massaged to accomplish that.



Mark A.

 

[Cdaniel]

good luck

hopefully, you can make it out to the trail with us some day

You've got to help keep the FJ40 presence alive in the CSC. We are few these days, but I'll be back!

 

[Scott68FJ40]

I can't remember the last time I was at a CSC meetup and there was a 40 there. Of course, I don't make it out every month.

 

[DSRTRDR]

I can't remember the last time I was at a CSC meetup and there was a 40 there. Of course, I don't make it out every month.

last time I went, there were three 40s - that was in August

You've got to help keep the FJ40 presence alive in the CSC. We are few these days, but I'll be back!

BTW, there are a couple threads about frame cracks in my 40 . . ., just in case you need inspiration

 

[Cdaniel]

last time I went, there were three 40s - that was in August
BTW, there are a couple threads about frame cracks in my 40 . . ., just in case you need inspiration

I remember that. Fortunately I don't have anything as serious as your rear spring hangers. Or do I? I think I'll have to give that area a good look too.

 

[Cdaniel]

A little more progress.
Got the steering shaft and fenders out of the way. What a mess this frame corner is! Pics below show some more carnage and my pathetic attempt to fix with upside down welding and everything in the way.

It's looking like moving this box is inevitable if I want to go SOA. It's all tied together with the spring hanger. I'm thinking plate over the inside of the cross member. A big gusset under the missing notch. Then start over with something more like the examples above.

So, between the "john smith" and 4x4 lab examples above, anyone know what the different ideas are in the height of the box relative to the frame?

Checked out the 4x4 labs page and that kit looks worthwhile. I've had my eye on boxing the opposite side too. My hook mount is bent from too many hard tugs to extract stuck friends.

 

[Cdaniel]

The next item on the agenda, cracks below the fender mount brackets. Did a quick fix once already, one side held and cracked again nearby (top pic). The other cracked on the other side of the hole where the original ended. I'm thinking grind out again, re weld flush, then plate over. Any opinions? How far away should scab plates go?

What is causing this stress?

 

[Cdaniel]

Also on the list, motor mounts. Shown is the current modified old school AA style setup. A constant pain with the rubber or urethane constantly collapsing and shifting the engine enough to move the fan into the shroud. The whole drive train has never been located or aligned to my satisfaction either.

Start over time. I'm thinking of fabricating something custom to use stock GM mounts. Or possible the hot rod style urethane bushing/tube set up. Though I don't like the vibrations urethane transmits.

Other ideas?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

There you go! That first pic is worth A THOUSAND WORDS!

The location and mount of the Saginaw box are a serious compromise based on a misguided attempt to keep the end of the steering box outside of the crossmember.

The compromise has cost you in the increased angle of your relay rod to the main steering rod, as well as adding an enormous amount of fulcrum to the framerails by having the steering box further away from the crossmember than need be.

The steering box mounting plate offered by MANY vendors, myself included is designed to butt up DIRECTLY to the driver's side framerail AND the crossmember, and be welded to both. This does not eliminate the lateral stress that causes the cracks you have, but greatly reduces the stress and lengthens the time until they appear for most applications.

It is unfortunate that someone also thought it would be appropriate to cut open the top of your frame channel to insert the tube for the steering box. That complicates [slightly] the idea of relocating your steering box to improve its trajectory [and the lifespan of your frame welds]

I suppose it would be possible to reinforce your frame as-is. But I really think in the long run it is just a patch for a steering box that SHOULD BE MOVED.

Best

Mark A.

Not to hi-jack Cliffs thread but...

Im also in the steering box mounted to far forward club for the last 20 years mind you. Where exactly do these notorious cracks present themselves I have looked to no success?

 

[leftarmtan]

The 4+ stuff from Man A Fre is a quality Dave Gore design. (at least it was last I heard) Should serve you well.

You can see the angle difference from mine below. If you're not going SOA, this is a good way to reverse it.

FWIW the brackets are the same angle.Put the passenger side bracket on the driver side-vice versa,flip springs.Or just get the man-a-free kit lol

 

[Cdaniel]

Another day of progress. (Feels more like I'm diggin a really big hole) The slate is nearly blank. The old bullet on the stand in back will be seeing some attention now too.

 

[Cdaniel]

Not too sure there Phil. Other than what I'm seeing due to material moved at the notch. And the hole for the sector shaft. I'm not sure I can attribute any other cracking to the location of the box. I've never been fond of the idea of my box being the 1st thing to take a hit in a frontal collision though. Particularly with no collapsing steering shaft.

I think my other cracks are due to the twisting stress of constant rock crawling and other inappropriate treatment.

Not to hi-jack Cliffs thread but...

Im also in the steering box mounted to far forward club for the last 20 years mind you. Where exactly do these notorious cracks present themselves I have looked to no success?

 

[Cdaniel]

To reverse the reveral or not to reverse?

So with a finished spring over in the plans for the old soldier, I'm pondering just putting the original spring hangers back on. And running the springs like they were.

I don't know as I ever noticed a significant difference with the current set up.

Any opinions?

 

[msahr]

Since the reversal already gives you about 1-2" lift (I think mine was 1.5") already you'd want to remove the front large hangers. You could just go with regular hangers in front and shackles in the rear. I think I've seen this done this way before.

When I was talking to Proffitts's about redoing my 40 they talked about doing it this way for the springover.

Looking forward to seeing how all this turns out.

 

[Cdaniel]

A little more crap work done

It's amazing what 2 cans of oven cleaner and a pressure washer can do. Also amazing, the chunks of crud that can resist 2 cans of oven cleaner and a pressure washer

A clean SM465 ready for some re sealing and probably some new synchros.

A clean 3spd case that most likely will get replaced by an Orion.

 

[Cdaniel]

Another crack

So the frame isn't the only thing with cracks.
This 40 year old piece of cast iron is about to become part of a new Camry.

A new exhaust is in the plan. Thinking about small primary block hugger headers and 2 into one out the back.

Looking for header selection suggestions....

 

[kentmasters]

Nice truck. I would go for another set of ramshorns. They are very cheap from Summit, et al. You won't get 40 years out of headers.

 

[bikersmurf]

X2 on ramshorns

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

X3000 on OEM manifolds.

Cliff What is up with your manifolds I never seen that before

 

[Cdaniel]

X3000 on OEM manifolds.

Cliff What is up with your manifolds I never seen that before

I think it's due to the years of trail beating with the pipe and muffler hanging on there and only supported at the other end of the muffler. With the mufflers being under the foot wells out side the frame, they took quite a beating. I've broken the collector off of the other side before when the muffler got real personal with a rock on Ajax trail. Took out a spark plug too. That was a noisy ride home.

Okay, so you guys have talked me into staying with rams horns.

What's the best way to do the 2 into 1 with them? 2 straight dumps or a straight and swept dump combo?