Getting ready for front axle rebuild... finally (1 Viewer)

[OGBeno]

I hope to have CDan's order by early next week and will get started.

Your parts went out.

Some things to mention/comment on:

After everything is apart and you have completely disassembled each end and you have the gear oil out of the diff., I like to take some quick drying brake parts cleaner and spray the inside of the diff down and let it all drain the gunk inside the diff. Then I use some compressed air to clean out the brake parts cleaner. You'd be surprised at what other gunk comes out of the diff. You are going to be putting new gear oil in anyway, so it's no big deal.

While I think taking apart the birf is important, it is not necessary. I let the birfs soak in diesel or parts cleaner over night, clean it out with brake parts cleaner the next day, and start stuffing the birf. If you are not clicking, swapping sides won't be really any more useful.

I prefer the Martack as opposed to the c-clip for keeping the axle inside of the birf and both of mine are done with this method. Do a search under "Martack" and you'll see what I am talking about. It's a one shot deal and works great...at least it has for me and tons of mini-truck/4 Runner guys out there.

I prefer to use a slightly higher pre-load than what the FSM calls for. And I am only talking a few more pounds, not ten or twenty. The FSM, IIRC, calls for 7-12 pounds range for the pre-load on the hub assy. I like to go to about 15-18 pounds because of the fact that the hub loosens immediately once you put everything together (which is why they call for tightening and loosening). Commercial airplanes also use a 2 bearing hub on spindle assy (at least most of the ones that I've seen airplane mechanics work on) and most of the airplane mechanics I have talked to say they tighten pre-load just a bit over spec. A very well known 80 series mechanic has also confirmed that this is a method he uses as well.

A few other pointers:

-use old races to pound new ones in (trunion bearings as well as wheel bearings)

-don't over fill the knuckle cavity

-don't be afraid of pounding the crap out of old races to get them out using a steel chisel, not a brass one.

-be light on the felt/rubber/metal seal on the outside of the knuckle housing. These break easily--ask me how I know...

-take frequent #6 breaks. It allows you to enjoy the messiness of this job.

-use some lock tite (not necessary) on the lower knuckle studs, and a bit over torque rating won't be a bad thing.

-if this is your first time, use a torque wrench.

-parts cleaner and brake parts cleaner cans are essential.

-reuse bearings if they are not bad and save money. Trunions I would replace regardless, wheel bearings can go a long time (my preference are the Koyos, but the Timkins do a good job too)

Have fun and learn about your truck.

-o-

 

[Driley]

Thanks for the update Onur!

The Martack method does appear to be a sure fire way of getting the job done. I am going to try what Brian mentioned earlier using a hose clamp. If that does not get the job done, I do have access to a welder. I do not have any clicking currently, but decided to go ahead and swap sides. It may add more headache, but I just really do not want to have to go in there again for a while. I have put ~30,000 miles on in the 4+ years I have had her so I figure I will be good for at least that long unless I have issues.

I have 2 torque wrenches (1 Harbor Freight cheap-o in ft/lbs. and a nice one in in/lbs.) and plan to use them for everything.

I am pretty sure that my passenger side wheel bearings are worn (quite a bit of play at 12 and 6 o'clock). I ordered new ones and will hold on to the old ones just for kicks.

Thanks again to everyone for all of the advice!

Riley

 

[Kernal]

Driley; any updates on what you found?

 

[Driley]

Driley; any updates on what you found?

I am still waiting for the parts from CDan (I hope to get them today or tomorrow). I ordered them on Tuesday and just went with standard shipping.

I am setting up the area for the rebuild (laying down tarps and setting up tables for all of the parts) today and will start the teardown tomorrow regardless of the parts showing up.

I will report back any findings once I get started.

Riley

 

[Driley]

I got antsy so started the teardown. Started with the passenger side because of the 12 and 6 o'clock play. When I got to the 54mm nuts, they were both less than hand tight. The bearing must have been walking around in there. The index washer looks ruined and I tried to call CDan to find out if that was part of the "package" (left a voice mail). I did not specifically add it to the order so I am pretty sure it is not coming.

Attached are some crappy pictures of the washer. There is a very pronounced grove worn into the bearing side.

I will try to find it locally in case I can not get it from CDan.

Riley

edit: before I could hit enter on the post, I called the local dealership and they have them in stock for $4.01 each. I will continue the breakdown and see what else I need. I did order new bearings from CDan, so hopefully that is it.

 

[OGBeno]

I got antsy so started the teardown. Started with the passenger side because of the 12 and 6 o'clock play. When I got to the 54mm nuts, they were both less than hand tight. The bearing must have been walking around in there. The index washer looks ruined and I tried to call CDan to find out if that was part of the "package" (left a voice mail). I did not specifically add it to the order so I am pretty sure it is not coming.

Attached are some crappy pictures of the washer. There is a very pronounced grove worn into the bearing side.

I will try to find it locally in case I can not get it from CDan.

Riley

edit: before I could hit enter on the post, I called the local dealership and they have them in stock for $4.01 each. I will continue the breakdown and see what else I need. I did order new bearings from CDan, so hopefully that is it.

The claw washer is not in the "kit" that you get from Dan. You have to ask for those separately.

 

[Bluetribal]

Well my birff job this weekend hit a speed bump. I accidentally put the caliper bolts into the top of the knuckle plate. Jacked up the bolts and the knuckle housing. It is currently at my mechanic getting fixed.
They are the same size bolt but apparently a different thread spacing.

And the other side.

 

[Bluetribal]

Oh and by the way driver side was good but passenger side was pea soup.

 

[Beowulf]

Have you been adding moly through the square plug atop the knuckle housing?

-B-

 

[Bluetribal]

No, do you see that knuckle housing I haven't done anything to it until now.

Now it's all pretty & clean with new lower knuckle studs. *Edit* oops that was a shot before the new studs.

 

[Driley]

I have been cleaning all of the parts as I take them off (in no rush to get it all done since I don't have the parts yet). Ran into another question.

The plate that mounts to the outboard side of the brake shield has a gasket around the center. It looks like whoever had this apart last they did not seat it correctly and it creased. It looks like it is just a dust shield and is part of the metal ring. I am not sure if I should worry about it.

Attached pictures (once again crappy).

Riley

Edit: Thanks Onur for the info about the index washer!

 

[woody]

bet your rebuild kit includes that part (mine did!)

 

[Beowulf]

No, do you see that knuckle housing I haven't done anything to it until now.

Other than being soupy, you shouldn't see any problems from lack of lubrication... no rusting, no abnormal wear. Not bad really.

I am not sure if I should worry about it.

A new one will be in the kit from Cruiserdan & Beno.

-B-

 

[retrofive]

I have been cleaning all of the parts as I take them off (in no rush to get it all done since I don't have the parts yet). Ran into another question.

The plate that mounts to the outboard side of the brake shield has a gasket around the center. It looks like whoever had this apart last they did not seat it correctly and it creased. It looks like it is just a dust shield and is part of the metal ring. I am not sure if I should worry about it.

Attached pictures (once again crappy).

Riley

Edit: Thanks Onur for the info about the index washer!

Oh, that will be another $100

J/K.

Thank you for all the pics, I need to prepare for this project.

 

[MoJ]

Not a necessity but this driver set from Harbor Freight works great for installing the races, bearings, and inner axle seal. The attachment disks are perfectly sized. If your friends make any rainbow jokes just ignore them.

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

As far as lube....I've found NAPA usually has the tubes of Valvoline Palladium (the only one I've seen that specs 3%). Autozone carries the Mobile 1 synthetic bearing grease in a can.

 

[Bluetribal]

Not bad, I paid the same price for the Marlin install tool and that is just one size. I guess he is going to have other sizes in the future or already does?

 

[MoJ]

Not bad, I paid the same price for the Marlin install tool and that is just one size. I guess he is going to have other sizes in the future or already does?

Dunno but between bearings, races, and inner axle seal we used three different sized discs.

 

[Bluetribal]

Yeah the Marlin one was for the Marlin inner axle seal and for the races I laid a brass drift with flat sides across them. And for the seal on the hub I used a piece of wood, that one went in pretty easy.

 

[Driley]

Finally got everything out and cleaned. I took my time and was interrupted about every hour with business, but it is all ready to go back together.

Next question: Why would my passenger side spindle have a brass sleeve bushing and the driver's side have a roller bearing? It looks like the axle was opened at sometime in the past 212,000 miles.

Attached are the crappy pictures. Picture #1 is passenger side / picture #2 is driver's side.

Thanks,

Riley

edit: Just read to the end of the rebuild FAQs and found Onur's pictures. Now here is a new question: Do I just pack the needle bearing with moly grease and call it good? I assume it is alright to run one side bushing / one side bearing. Thanks in advance!

 

[OGBeno]

edit: Just read to the end of the rebuild FAQs and found Onur's pictures. Now here is a new question: Do I just pack the needle bearing with moly grease and call it good? I assume it is alright to run one side bushing / one side bearing. Thanks in advance!

Probably because there was some sort of spindle wear/damage/failure at some point previously and was replaced with a newer style spindle. Good stuff!

I used wheel bearing grease and called it a day. Smear it on, turn the rollers by hand and make sure to get everything nice and greased and reassemble.

You are almost there.