Getting ready for front axle rebuild... finally (1 Viewer)

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the birfield only touches the inner axle and the brass bushing in the spindle (and the flange splines)....the 'cage' is inside the birfield....centrifugal force will spin any extra grease off the birfield

if the birfield touches anything inside the knuckle other than that brass bushing and the flange, then you are contacting non-machined surfaces and have some MAJOR problems ;)

you'll see once you are in there....
 
you'll see once you are in there....

This statement alone is really the only thing you needed to say. I need to see if for myself to truly understand.

Thanks again and :cheers:!

Riley
 
'big tins' don't last as long, and aren't as good for carrying a trayful of parts across the shop :)

magically, I know people with old and beat to #@$% cookie trays...or buy Mom a couple for Mothers Day and steal the old ones ;) (same works for spatulas and turkey basters)
 
One other thing that is nice, and you will see on the DVD, is a brass drift that has a hex shape...this is nice for putting the upper and lower trunion races in...the drift does not slip off. you may be able to go to your local machine shop and buy a 8" piece or so...would be surprised if it was more than $5 or so....just something to add to the list:D

barrypt5
 
Clean the axle housing?

Just ordered a rebuild kit from CDan, plan to do the same too. Any plan or suggestion to clean up the axle housing while you have the seals out? I am not sure I want to put the degreaser in there. Maybe use compressed air with a long nozzle?
 
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One other thing that is nice, and you will see on the DVD, is a brass drift that has a hex shape...this is nice for putting the upper and lower trunion races in...the drift does not slip off. you may be able to go to your local machine shop and buy a 8" piece or so...would be surprised if it was more than $5 or so....just something to add to the list:D

barrypt5

I found a hex shaped one at the local Harbor Freight for ~$8. They did not have it the last time I went so the Gods must be smiling on me :p!

Riley
 
Just ordered a rebuild kit from CDan, plan to do the same too. Any plan or suggestion to clean up the axle housing while you have the seals out. I am not sure I want to put the degreaser in there. Maybe use compressed air with a long nozzle?

My plan is to drain the diff and just look around in there when I have both sides out. If it is not too bad, I am going to do the fill with cheap, drive around, drain and repeat a few times until the fluid is nice and clean. Then fill with a fancy synthetic.

The only name brand moly-fortified grease I could find was a Valvoline with Ford/Lincoln/Mercury on the tube. I hope that is good enough. The only other brand out there was something like Sta-lube. I did find Mobil 1 synth. bearing grease in the tub.

Riley
 
I found Valvoline Palladium grease (has extra Moly in it) at a NAPA store, read about it on some threads here where some others mudders have used it.
 
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I found Valvoline Palladium grease (has extra Moly in it) at a NAPA store, read about it on some threads here where some others mudders have used it.

Having a slight case of OCD, I started reading up and NAPA was mentioned for the Valvoline product. I went to the local store and they did not have the Palladium line but did have Valvoline SynPower on the shelf and so I returned the straight stuff to Schucks and will call it good.

Went to the local Ace Hardware and found (2) 10mm x 1.25 pitch studs to use for guides and bought a 8mm x 1.25 bolt for the axle pull.

I ordered my stuff from Marlin Crawler on Tuesday and UPS just dropped it off. Thanks to all at Marlin Crawler, great service!

I hope to have CDan's order by early next week and will get started.

I have been keeping a price list for everything I have purchased for the front axle rebuild and will post up the grand total once complete. As a reference, I was quoted ~$1,200.00 in labor and ~$800.00 for parts by my trusted mechanic. My goal is to be well under half that amount (including all of the tools I have purchased to help with the job).

Riley
 
You don't have enough shop towels.

-B-
 
You don't have enough shop towels.

-B-

I hate throwing away anything so I have been saving all of the old clothes that the kids have grown out of and anything that the wife claims is not acceptable to wear out of the house for the last few years. I have 2 large trash cans full and even purchased an extra 12 pack of paper towels at Costco.

I do need to run to Home Depot and get a length of 2" PVC to break the birfield apart. I guess I am not done shopping...

Riley
 
I ordered one from Marlin Crawler here E12 Socket | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

I assume you could get it at Sears or some other tool place.

Riley

Well, I already made my order from Marlin for the inner seals & seal install tool and I start working on the rig this evening. So hopefully the shop near where I am picking up my rotors will have it.
Thanks for the size, description and price range.
 
Well, I already made my order from Marlin for the inner seals & seal install tool and I start working on the rig this evening. So hopefully the shop near where I am picking up my rotors will have it.
Thanks for the size, description and price range.

I believe that a standard size socket (not sure the size) will also work. I am trying to find the post that talked about it...

Riley

edit: Here is the link https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/251841-steering-knuckle-studs-torx-socket.html post #5. Also read CDan's warning below that post.
 
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