Yeah (don't mean to hijack the op's post) I meant inboard of the axle seal, between the seal and the diff housing. Read a post from 1/09 where one steamed cleaned it and someone else used a toilet brush but I think they had the third member out when they did it.
Getting ready for front axle rebuild... finally
- Thread starter Driley
- Start date
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BenMara
Asian Redneck
im takin my 3rd out lots of junk in the housing
- Thread starter
- #43
I am still wondering if it is necessary to have the front locker engaged to do the rebuild. I need to sort out the front locker, but just wanted to know if I had to do it before tearing the axle apart.
Thanks,
Riley
edit: My front locker works fine, it is the rear that does not want to engage (I told you I never used them). So I will engage the front locker than tear everything apart.
Last edited:
I need a part # for the new knuckle studs if anyone has that handy.
- Thread starter
- #46
CDan finally came up for air yesterday after vacation (thank you for callling back) so I ordered most of the parts from him. New bearings + races, extra cone washers (both sizes), all gaskets and new brake rotors + 100 series pads. Also new axle studs, an extra air filter and a handful of oil filters.
I ordered the following from Marlin Crawler:
-54mm socket
-E12 socket
-HD Inner axle seal
-Axle seal installer
-C-Clip pliers
-Snap ring pliers
-Knuckle pull scale
I now think I have all the tools and parts to get this done. I just need to go back through past posts to help me pick the fluids. Moly grease, bearing grease and differential fluid (why are there so many choices?). I plan to buy the cheapest 80w90 and do the fill-drive-drain flush method after everything is back together then pick a fancy synthetic for the final fill. I would ask for advice on the greases, but I know there are many, many choices and not all are available in every area. I plan to just make a list of 3 or 4 brands other Mud members have used and then shop around.
Thanks again for all of the advice. I will be back with questions once I get started.
Riley
I ordered the following from Marlin Crawler:
-54mm socket
-E12 socket
-HD Inner axle seal
-Axle seal installer
-C-Clip pliers
-Snap ring pliers
-Knuckle pull scale
I now think I have all the tools and parts to get this done. I just need to go back through past posts to help me pick the fluids. Moly grease, bearing grease and differential fluid (why are there so many choices?). I plan to buy the cheapest 80w90 and do the fill-drive-drain flush method after everything is back together then pick a fancy synthetic for the final fill. I would ask for advice on the greases, but I know there are many, many choices and not all are available in every area. I plan to just make a list of 3 or 4 brands other Mud members have used and then shop around.
Thanks again for all of the advice. I will be back with questions once I get started.
Riley
some tips:
cookie sheets - great for keeping parts off the shop floor AND great for catching what pours out of the axle - believe I have 6 around the shop
rubber spatula - for cleaning out the insides of knuckles and such, and for packing the new moly into the birfield
'cheap' hose clamp - for the inner axle circlip when you re-install the birf...reusuable
note:
- 'knuckle pull scales' are worthless unless you remove the tie rods...and DO NOT install the back felts/seals either....
- remember that turning the front driveshaft by hand can help align the inner axle in the diff during installation - locker OFF
doing my drivers side once it warms up....well...over 40 anyways...
cookie sheets - great for keeping parts off the shop floor AND great for catching what pours out of the axle - believe I have 6 around the shop
rubber spatula - for cleaning out the insides of knuckles and such, and for packing the new moly into the birfield
'cheap' hose clamp - for the inner axle circlip when you re-install the birf...reusuable
note:
- 'knuckle pull scales' are worthless unless you remove the tie rods...and DO NOT install the back felts/seals either....
- remember that turning the front driveshaft by hand can help align the inner axle in the diff during installation - locker OFF
doing my drivers side once it warms up....well...over 40 anyways...
- Thread starter
- #48
some tips:
cookie sheets - great for keeping parts off the shop floor AND great for catching what pours out of the axle - believe I have 6 around the shop
rubber spatula - for cleaning out the insides of knuckles and such, and for packing the new moly into the birfield
'cheap' hose clamp - for the inner axle circlip when you re-install the birf...reusuable
note:
- 'knuckle pull scales' are worthless unless you remove the tie rods...and DO NOT install the back felts/seals either....
- remember that turning the front driveshaft by hand can help align the inner axle in the diff during installation - locker OFF
doing my drivers side once it warms up....well...over 40 anyways...
The order is already sent to Marlin so no dropping the pull scale (I thought it could be used to check the wheel bearing preload-I plan to leave the tie rods alone). CDan already told me that it is not necessary to lock the front when rebuilding (just the rear locker to help with the rear rebuild).
Thanks for the info on cookie sheets, rubber spatula and hose clamp (use the clamp instead of a wire tie I am assuming).
Thanks again and glad you were not hurt when your axle decided to leave you (that is pretty amazing!).
Riley
(Driley hope you don't mind I piggyback some questions here, I'm getting ready to "do it" for the first time also).
Should the bottom knuckle studs be replaced even if they "look" OK (or any other bolts); do they get stretched out or something?
Do the cone washers break often; should we have extras on hand, or just replace all the old ones?
What are the snap ring pliers used for, thought we just needed C-clip pliers?
Ditto what bluetribal says: anyone have a photo of the zip tie trick?
I just got elmariachi's DVD, really helped to visualize the whole process.
Thx
Should the bottom knuckle studs be replaced even if they "look" OK (or any other bolts); do they get stretched out or something?
Do the cone washers break often; should we have extras on hand, or just replace all the old ones?
What are the snap ring pliers used for, thought we just needed C-clip pliers?
Ditto what bluetribal says: anyone have a photo of the zip tie trick?
I just got elmariachi's DVD, really helped to visualize the whole process.
Thx
I'll have pics of the hose-clamp method shortly....my drivers side is apart (took an hour)
yet to ever replace a cone washer...just don't lose them
I use a brass hammer and a custom-filed small flat-head screwdriver to pop them loose
if you wheel your 80 HARD (ie, pretend buggy) then I'd consider replacing the knuckle studs...or if the threads are buggered....I'm not replacing mine.
snap-ring pliers for the outer clip at the end of the birfield behind the grease cap....WAY easy with a snap-ring pliers....WAY irritating otherwise....
the process is almost identical to doing my FJ40, which i've done enuf times to do blindfolded....
yet to ever replace a cone washer...just don't lose them
I use a brass hammer and a custom-filed small flat-head screwdriver to pop them looseif you wheel your 80 HARD (ie, pretend buggy) then I'd consider replacing the knuckle studs...or if the threads are buggered....I'm not replacing mine.
snap-ring pliers for the outer clip at the end of the birfield behind the grease cap....WAY easy with a snap-ring pliers....WAY irritating otherwise....
the process is almost identical to doing my FJ40, which i've done enuf times to do blindfolded....
piece of cake....pics of the 'hose clamp' method....
pic 1: hose clamp loosely positioned, circlip in place
pic 2: hose clamp snugly holding the circlip in the groove....snug, but NOT tight....
pic 3: hose clamp buried in moly goo, inner axle w/ circlip properly seated inside the birfield...
I used a brass hammer on the birfield and had the inner sitting on a block of wood on the shop floor....be SURE the splines are aligned before you start tapping into place....when the hose clamp contacts the inner axle seating 'ridge', tap the birfield slightly out and loosen the hose clamp and allow it to slip down the inner axle...then tap the birfield until it's fully seated on the inner...
worked the first time, and almost always does....'cheap' hose clamps work best, since the flange around the screw/tighten area is thinnest...
pic 1: hose clamp loosely positioned, circlip in place
pic 2: hose clamp snugly holding the circlip in the groove....snug, but NOT tight....
pic 3: hose clamp buried in moly goo, inner axle w/ circlip properly seated inside the birfield...
I used a brass hammer on the birfield and had the inner sitting on a block of wood on the shop floor....be SURE the splines are aligned before you start tapping into place....when the hose clamp contacts the inner axle seating 'ridge', tap the birfield slightly out and loosen the hose clamp and allow it to slip down the inner axle...then tap the birfield until it's fully seated on the inner...
worked the first time, and almost always does....'cheap' hose clamps work best, since the flange around the screw/tighten area is thinnest...
- Thread starter
- #52
CDan told me that the cone washers are reusable and rarely need to be replaced. I just decided to order an extra 5 per size in case I mess up (expect the worst, hope for the best).
After the reading the "check yo' nuts" thread, I decided to get the lower studs. (expect the worst... you know the rest).
As far as the pliers, I just ordered both that Marlin offered. Rather have them in hand and not need them then really need them and not find them locally (expect... yada yada).
Hope all goes well with your rebuild. I plan to start mine next week.
Riley
- Thread starter
- #53
Thanks Brian for the pictures! That is what I assumed the procedure was, but like everyone else, I am a picture whore!
Back to another question: Can I use the knuckle pull scale to check wheel bearing preload or does it require a different scale? I plan to use the Landtank method but would just like to have some other reference to make sure I am doing it correctly.
Thanks,
Riley
Back to another question: Can I use the knuckle pull scale to check wheel bearing preload or does it require a different scale? I plan to use the Landtank method but would just like to have some other reference to make sure I am doing it correctly.
Thanks,
Riley
same scale should work...IIRC, trunion preload is like 7# on a FJ40....or something like that....
as much as my FJ40 is apart for yearly maintenance, I do it all by feel (trunions and wheel bearings)...the 80 is going on that same schedule (finally)
as much as my FJ40 is apart for yearly maintenance, I do it all by feel (trunions and wheel bearings)...the 80 is going on that same schedule (finally)
- Thread starter
- #55
Another question: I have been searching and know that I found the info years ago when I started researching the front axle rebuild - how many tubes of moly grease and wheel bearing grease should I need for both sides?
I am going to keep searching...
Riley
I am going to keep searching...
Riley
jfz80
Cruisin’
i just did mine and seems like i went through 5 tubes of moly for the birf/cavity and 3/4 of a TUB of synthetic for the bearings and spindle. I bought 2 for each side and was a little shy so split the fifth tube b/w the two sides. Good luck, take your time and enjoy the build quality.
oh and its easiest if you put the trunion bearing race in the right way the first time
oh and its easiest if you put the trunion bearing race in the right way the first time
- Thread starter
- #57
i just did mine and seems like i went through 5 tubes of moly for the birf/cavity and 3/4 of a TUB of synthetic for the bearings and spindle. I bought 2 for each side and was a little shy so split the fifth tube b/w the two sides. Good luck, take your time and enjoy the build quality.
oh and its easiest if you put the trunion bearing race in the right way the first time
Thank you! I remember reading that it took ~ 4 tubes of moly but just was not sure.
Thanks again,
Riley
IN MY OPINION...
I never fill the cavity outside the ball/inside the knuckle with anything....smear moly around the trunion bearings and be done with it...there is NOTHING there that will magically push moly into the trunion bearings once the initial grease is in there....
will stuffing full of moly allow less room for water insde the knuckle? sure...but if there is water in there, it needs to be cleaned and repacked anyways...filling with grease just means more spoooooge to clean up when you are fixing the problem.
you will never get more grease into the bearings beyond what you pack in there from day one....and if you stuff it completely full (knuckle with moly OR hub with wheel grease) you create other issues as the grease heats up and expands and has no where to go...
mine will be apart and repacked yearly, and inspected after any water crossing-type trips (and torn down if necessary)...
part of my April project list, since I'm now actually home to HAVE an April project list....
I have:
packed the trunions and smeared moly around their seating area
smeared some moly where the back knuckle felts/seals ride
smeared moly on the inner axle seal prior to installing the axle/birf
stuffed the birf solid with moly
smeared moly on the brass bushing in the spindle and around the outer 'face' of the birf
packed the wheel bearings solid with red grease
mmm....believe that's it....heading back out to finish up
I never fill the cavity outside the ball/inside the knuckle with anything....smear moly around the trunion bearings and be done with it...there is NOTHING there that will magically push moly into the trunion bearings once the initial grease is in there....
will stuffing full of moly allow less room for water insde the knuckle? sure...but if there is water in there, it needs to be cleaned and repacked anyways...filling with grease just means more spoooooge to clean up when you are fixing the problem.
you will never get more grease into the bearings beyond what you pack in there from day one....and if you stuff it completely full (knuckle with moly OR hub with wheel grease) you create other issues as the grease heats up and expands and has no where to go...
mine will be apart and repacked yearly, and inspected after any water crossing-type trips (and torn down if necessary)...
part of my April project list, since I'm now actually home to HAVE an April project list....
I have:
packed the trunions and smeared moly around their seating area
smeared some moly where the back knuckle felts/seals ride
smeared moly on the inner axle seal prior to installing the axle/birf
stuffed the birf solid with moly
smeared moly on the brass bushing in the spindle and around the outer 'face' of the birf
packed the wheel bearings solid with red grease
mmm....believe that's it....heading back out to finish up
Wish I could have found a hose clamp when I did mine a few weeks ago.....the zip tie worked on the fourth try.
- Thread starter
- #60
Isn't the procedure of filling the cavity to 2/3 or 3/4 full to allow the birfield "cage" to be constantly covered in grease? Would the grease eventually collect at the bottom of the housing if you only packed the cage? I can understand not filling the housing completely, but it makes sense to have enough grease in there to allow the birfield to be submersed.
But truthfully, I have never done this before and could be completely wrong.
Riley
