Builds Gerry's Build thread: "If it happens again I'm buying an Abrams" (3 Viewers)

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Couple/few thoughts:
Did your "dad shoes" get muddy at all before swapping back over to the Toyos or did you remove them prior to knobbing? If so did they perform decently for being road shoes?

While on the stands were you manually moving the tires to trigger the ATRAC or going from drive to neutral initialing the spin?

Not sure if this is relevant but I find that having improper offset on my Sequoia wheels triggers my TRAC system light more frequently than I like. Despite said offset being relatively close to OEM. I am curious if RW wheels would have an impact on speeding up the demise of sensors. Just some random thought junk to throw out there.
 
Couple/few thoughts:
Did your "dad shoes" get muddy at all before swapping back over to the Toyos or did you remove them prior to knobbing? If so did they perform decently for being road shoes?

While on the stands were you manually moving the tires to trigger the ATRAC or going from drive to neutral initialing the spin?

Not sure if this is relevant but I find that having improper offset on my Sequoia wheels triggers my TRAC system light more frequently than I like. Despite said offset being relatively close to OEM. I am curious if RW wheels would have an impact on speeding up the demise of sensors. Just some random thought junk to throw out there.
No mud on the New Balances. I swapped the Toyos on to the truck on Saturday. Are you asking if the Toyos perform well on the road? If so, they're fine. Ride like s***, enough that I just bought a whole new set for the street.

On stands, trans in neutral, manually turning the tires. I was trying not to trigger ATRAC. I never put it in drive as I felt that the intertia of moving and then stopping the Toyos, or having ATRAC grab wheels, was probably not the best idea on jack stands :meh:

I've had the RWs and 1.5" spacers on all 4 corners for nearly 4 years and 100k hard miles. ATRAC has always worked flawlessly when needed, and never had an issue with it in normal driving. I don't think the wheels are a contributing factor.
 
It is important to keep the sneaks white and fresh for plowing through the madness that is I-75. Good on you. I was just curious about the diag on the ATRAC and random thoughts about wheels and spacers.
 
Lots of things. I buy+sell houses so I guess that means I'm unemployed for a bit. Been finding little projects to stay busy.

We fixed the locker. Turned out to be, best we could tell, a little corrosion on some connectors under the hood. Cleaned, added some dielectric grease. Boom, easy peasy.
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Then I decided I didn't like airing up or down the way I have been. So I ordered some fancy Apex Performance valve stems and made a 4-way inflator rig. Also wired up a pressure switch to my compressor.

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Lots of things. I buy+sell houses so I guess that means I'm unemployed for a bit. Been finding little projects to stay busy.

We fixed the locker. Turned out to be, best we could tell, a little corrosion on some connectors under the hood. Cleaned, added some dielectric grease. Boom, easy peasy.
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Then I decided I didn't like airing up or down the way I have been. So I ordered some fancy Apex Performance valve stems and made a 4-way inflator rig. Also wired up a pressure switch to my compressor.

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What do the new valve stems do?
 
@Wermz shamed me in to painting my RWs before the 35s got mounted. So I spent a few days breaking them down, grinding, flapping, etc. There was poor access to the valve stems with the rings in tact. The little hole wasn't adequate. So I made a little jig and used a hole saw to open that up some. Sanded the rings to 1500 then polished. I think it all turned out cool.

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So they were all prepped, time to paint and rebuild.
 
I chased down a vibration that's been nagging me for a while. Only at speed, mainly when applying throttle, very cyclical. So I pulled drive shafts and found a bad u-joint on each shaft. Dropped them at the shop for new joints and balancing. Much better now.


I'll be fitting the 35s on the truck some time this week. Truck is going to have the most horrible heat shield rattle fixed on Monday, so maybe pics on the new shoes by mid-week.
 
@MongooseGA did you ever get into replacing your "modified" fuel tank with the salvage yard replacement and ASFIR skid? I don't believe I ever saw the results of that.
 
@MongooseGA did you ever get into replacing your "modified" fuel tank with the salvage yard replacement and ASFIR skid? I don't believe I ever saw the results of that.


Well, we started on that. Like one and a half times. But then decided to just wait until a lift is available to do it.
 
Ah, the ole lift absence issue can be difficult to overcome sometimes. Makes sense.
 
Bling bling

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Don't mind the itty-bitty spare. The 35s are only on for test purposes for now. I did take them for a spin around the block. Not a huge difference than my Toyos as far as feel, acceleration, and braking. These 35x12.50s only weigh like 6lbs more each than the old 34s.

I will need to do some persuading to eliminate rubbing. Currently, the tread blocks really push the lowest point of the inner fender, moreso on the PS. I've done the pinch weld mod already but will do a little more. Will also move my PS slider rearward a bit to give some extra room.

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I learned yesterday that one of my engine mounts is collapsed, so I have both of those plus a trans mount on order. I'm pretty amazed, because the engine barely budges when you lay on the throttle. I guess they're just that smooth? Other cars I've replaced these in felt like paint-shakers at idle. I'm wondering how much this i contributing to vibrations I've been chasing. Will also be adjusting my parking brake when I pull these tires off again this week. Then finish my breather lines. Then.. Then...
 
Looking spiffy!
Check out this video on ideas about "centering" the front wheels to mitigate rubbing
 
Bling bling

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Don't mind the itty-bitty spare. The 35s are only on for test purposes for now. I did take them for a spin around the block. Not a huge difference than my Toyos as far as feel, acceleration, and braking. These 35x12.50s only weigh like 6lbs more each than the old 34s.

I will need to do some persuading to eliminate rubbing. Currently, the tread blocks really push the lowest point of the inner fender, moreso on the PS. I've done the pinch weld mod already but will do a little more. Will also move my PS slider rearward a bit to give some extra room.

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I learned yesterday that one of my engine mounts is collapsed, so I have both of those plus a trans mount on order. I'm pretty amazed, because the engine barely budges when you lay on the throttle. I guess they're just that smooth? Other cars I've replaced these in felt like paint-shakers at idle. I'm wondering how much this i contributing to vibrations I've been chasing. Will also be adjusting my parking brake when I pull these tires off again this week. Then finish my breather lines. Then.. Then...
Could this be considered a Cruiser mullet? MTs on the ground, Dad shoes (Michelin Defender) on the back.
 
Safety over convenience? It's like I don't even know you o_O
 

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