Builds Gerry's Build thread: "If it happens again I'm buying an Abrams" (33 Viewers)

[ClassyJalopy]

Yours is now among the best built trucks on the forum here! Hope you get many years of fun and trouble-free adventures!

Having said that - when are you getting a secondary fuel tank and a roof rack?

Yesterday ended my break-in period for the gears. I'd been driving it easy for ~550 miles, letting all of the parts get to know each other. We replaced the gear oil, found exactly what we'd hoped for in it, and pumped a little extra grease into the new drive shafts and U-joints.

I did a ~200 mile highway drive yesterday and noticed some vibrations in the drive-line that I don't like. Happens only over ~60mph. Feels like it's largely during acceleration, smooths out if you stick the transmission in neutral.

I'm having my old OEM drive shafts rebuilt for spares, so maybe I'll swap them in when they're done to check that there's nothing wrong with the new ones.

Outside of that vibration, I like the extra pep from the gearing. The truck is still slow, but no longer horribly sluggish. Less prone to downshifting on hills around town. Actually pulls from a stop. No downside for higher-speed that I can tell yet.

Had some new SPC ball joints delivered as the ones in my SPC UCAs are toast. Will try to have those swapped next week.

Mileage is 261,475.

 

[MongooseGA]

Thanks dude! I love my truck, but there are definitely some better built rigs here. I just pick out what looks good and punch in the numbers. Everything I've done was after seeing it done here on mud. It wouldn't be half of what it is without this site.

Secondary tank is low on the list, down there with roof rack. I like my slick top.

Secondary battery though, not so low down. Going forward, I'd like to have my seats reskinned, get some lighting mods done (interior and exterior), finish my drawers or build v2, exhaust or at least a new muffler, get my compressor permanently mounted and wired in..

I'm actually having a little trouble thinking of more. Every time @ClassyJalopy you've ever asked me what's next, I've had a big long list. I guess.... I guess I've done all of it...

 

[ClassyJalopy]

DT headers, Dual Battery, Fridge, LED light bars, ICON CDC stage 3, interior strip and sound proof, new leather seats - the list is virtually endless and we are here to help spend your money

Kidding aside - you have all the functional upgrades and you have been really smart (and perhaps lucky!!) with your upgrades.

Secondary tank is low on the list, down there with roof rack. I like my slick top.

Secondary battery though, not so low down. Going forward, I'd like to have my seats reskinned, get some lighting mods done (interior and exterior), finish my drawers or build v2, exhaust or at least a new muffler, get my compressor permanently mounted and wired in..

I'm actually having a little trouble thinking of more. Every time @ClassyJalopy you've ever asked me what's next, I've had a big long list. I guess.... I guess I've done all of it...

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Also, we need fresh pictures of the whole truck.

 

[MongooseGA]

DT headers, Dual Battery, Fridge, LED light bars, ICON CDC stage 3, interior strip and sound proof, new leather seats - the list is virtually endless and we are here to help spend your money

Kidding aside - you have all the functional upgrades and you have been really smart (and perhaps lucky!!) with your upgrades.

Lucky is a massive understatement for sure!

When my consumable bits start going, I'll start upgrading more. Ex, when the shocks go, I'll look into higher end replacements. Maybe I'll replace the ARB. Low priority though.

I'll get some pics, though she looks the same up top as the last series I posted. The skids and bumper will be a big change.

 

[MongooseGA]

Installed the new switch for my aux fan today. The original switch was where the locker rocker now lives, so I got a cool Toyota-spec button from ch4x4.com. It fits perfectly in the blank space by the driver's left knee.

Details here: Help an idiot wire up a simple switch. Internet points awarded.

It sounds like I may still need to add a relay, and I would like to replace the blue bulb behind the text with white, but otherwise it' functioning perfectly and looks like it's supposed to be there. (Button isn't fully pressed into the surround in the pic, it's not gapped at all now).

Dropping off my TW drive shaft tomorrow to have a local shop spin it and assess it.



For you, @ClassyJalopy . As she sits today. No garage for her anymore. At least, not at this house. The old Benzes get to stay inside. Once the rear bumper is on the truck, the little 300 comes out so I can use that side as my work area for doing the suspension restoration on the 560.

 

[JT4runner]

So the last 2 months were fun.

In July, I popped U-joints in both drive shafts and subsequently blew the front diff at the same time. It was a real pain, but ultimately turned out well. Since I was going to either need new or to rebuild my driveshafts (they broke beyond U-joints), and since I was going to need to replace a front diff.. I went ahead and got a bunch of cool toys

@Wermz Hooked me up and installed all of the goodies in the last few weeks. Nitro Gear 4.88s, Eaton E-lockers front and rear, Tom Wood's double cardan driveshafts, and all buttoned up with a factory Toyota locker switch in the dash.




View attachment 2428999
View attachment 2429020
View attachment 2428996

View attachment 2428998

I'm still in the break-in period with the gears, so not much to say about them other than there doesn't seem to be any noticeable difference in driving. As in, there's no buzziness to the engine at all, no ill effects that I could find. After the break-in is done, I'll get to use the truck a bit more to see how the gears feel in acceleration from a stop. I can say that it's a lot less prone to downshift on slight hills around my area, so that's pretty cool. I'll get to test everything out for real in 2 weeks in Uwharrie for the Logan's Run trip.

We also put in a new Lexus battery, plus new rear axle seals (last ones failed), and OEM Toyota brake pads all around. For future reference, mileage is 260,8xx.

I ordered a full set of skid plates from @ASFIR 4X4 and hope to have those installed before GSMTR, but that may be optimistic. Still looking forward to them. AND! I'm expecting a really cool rear bumper from @TRAIL TAILOR to arrive in the next few weeks as well. At that point, I'll have gotten pretty much everything done to the truck as far as 'building' as I'd planned to. Everything going forward will be lipstick and accessories.

Now time to install those interior led bulbs? Ha

 

[abuck99]

They are not Spicer. TW sells Spicer joints in the sealed, non-serviceable flavor (at least for this application). Their serviceable joints are "Goldseal". They used a 1310 series joint. I'd have to look to see who produced the yokes. I don't see mention of it on their site.

My truck did have Spicer joints installed. They were installed about 1 year ago.

I just read back a page and noticed the new Dbl Cardan driveline- cool. I'll be interested to see how that works for you. I didn't think DC was necessary unless there were some pretty steep working angles (> +4 degrees) (TC to 3rd) ; which aren't really achievable on a typical 2" lifted, limited down travel 100 - especially the front being nearly straight working angle.

Breaking the spicer u joint's you installed last year is a good comparison that the Toyota Ujoints are very robust. We seldom hear of breaking Toyota ujoints on the forum. I had a conversation with TW a couple of years ago when I was considering going to a DC driveshaft- (what you just did and he basically talked me out of). The DC driveshaft def has its benefits, but one of my concerns was high speed balance for highway driving on the 100 ( the 100 series seems to transmit the most minor drivetrain imbalance/vibes- very unforgiving) I didn't want to risk spending $450 and chasing a balance issue. He also told me the Toyota ujoints were slightly larger & stronger than the 1310's and the DC driveline might not balance as smoothly as a OEM driveshaft for hwy driving speeds. TW did say however that if the driveshaft didn't work out- he'd allow a return & refund. Pretty good business policy IMO.

 

[MongooseGA]

I just read back a page and noticed the new Dbl Cardan driveline- cool. I'll be interested to see how that works for you. I didn't think DC was necessary unless there were some pretty steep working angles (> +4 degrees) (TC to 3rd) ; which aren't really achievable on a typical 2" lifted, limited down travel 100 - especially the front being nearly straight working angle.

Breaking the spicer u joint's you installed last year is a good comparison that the Toyota Ujoints are very robust. We seldom hear of breaking Toyota ujoints on the forum. I had a conversation with TW a couple of years ago when I was considering going to a DC driveshaft- (what you just did and he basically talked me out of). The DC driveshaft def has its benefits, but one of my concerns was high speed balance for highway driving on the 100 ( the 100 series seems to transmit the most minor drivetrain imbalance/vibes- very unforgiving) I didn't want to risk spending $450 and chasing a balance issue. He also told me the Toyota ujoints were slightly larger & stronger than the 1310's and the DC driveline might not balance as smoothly as a OEM driveshaft for hwy driving speeds. TW did say however that if the driveshaft didn't work out- he'd allow a return & refund. Pretty good business policy IMO.

Going with the double cardan was definitely overkill for my application, especially in the front shaft. For the rear, I just wanted whatever would have been the biggest upgrade. As for how they're doing so far: horrible.

That vibration I mentioned earlier didn't go away. Driving highway speed was both uncomfortable and unnerving- enough so that if this is what I'd be stuck with, this is no longer a highway vehicle (no, I'm not going to tolerate and leave it this way). I pulled the rear shaft over the weekend to determine if it was the culprit. It was. Truck rode smooth as butter running just FWD (other than the torque steer).

It makes sense that a double cardan would be more difficult to balance. I ordered everything over the phone with the intention of having info presented along the way as I checked off the features I wanted and asked questions that popped up. However, issues with balancing weren't mentioned to me as a consideration when I spoke with TW. They did advise that they spin their shafts at 2-3,000 rpm for balancing. I'm not sure what the industry standard is, but fwiw, Mik @ JT's said the best shops spin at 10,000 rpm.

In my mind's eye, the 1310 was noticeably larger than the Toyota spec joints, however I can't confirm the size disparity right now because I've dropped the rear TW and both of my OEM shafts for rebalancing/ rebuilding this morning. When I was there, the guy at the shop said TW makes cheap shafts using cheaper parts. Take it with a grain of salt, but whatever. I was advised a similar shaft made in-house from him would run ~$650 or so. For reference sake, I paid $918 shipped for both shafts with hardware.

Not really all that important, but I also stuck one of their supplied stickers on the rear shaft. I don't like stickers on the car, so I figured that would be a good spot for it. Well, by the time I'd driven from my house in Kennesaw to Hennessey, the sticker came off and took all of the paint behind it with it. Not the worst thing in the world, but just another tick mark against the vendor for this particular experience. Overall, I can't say I've been ecstatic with the shaft (at least the one).

 

[abuck99]

Going with the double cardan was definitely overkill for my application, especially in the front shaft. For the rear, I just wanted whatever would have been the biggest upgrade. As for how they're doing so far: horrible.

That vibration I mentioned earlier didn't go away. Driving highway speed was both uncomfortable and unnerving- enough so that if this is what I'd be stuck with, this is no longer a highway vehicle (no, I'm not going to tolerate and leave it this way). I pulled the rear shaft over the weekend to determine if it was the culprit. It was. Truck rode smooth as butter running just FWD (other than the torque steer).

It makes sense that a double cardan would be more difficult to balance. I ordered everything over the phone with the intention of having info presented along the way as I checked off the features I wanted and asked questions that popped up. However, issues with balancing weren't mentioned to me as a consideration when I spoke with TW. They did advise that they spin their shafts at 2-3,000 rpm for balancing. I'm not sure what the industry standard is, but fwiw, Mik @ JT's said the best shops spin at 10,000 rpm.

In my mind's eye, the 1310 was noticeably larger than the Toyota spec joints, however I can't confirm the size disparity right now because I've dropped the rear TW and both of my OEM shafts for rebalancing/ rebuilding this morning. When I was there, the guy at the shop said TW makes cheap shafts using cheaper parts. Take it with a grain of salt, but whatever. I was advised a similar shaft made in-house from him would run ~$650 or so. For reference sake, I paid $918 shipped for both shafts with hardware.

Not really all that important, but I also stuck one of their supplied stickers on the rear shaft. I don't like stickers on the car, so I figured that would be a good spot for it. Well, by the time I'd driven from my house in Kennesaw to Hennessey, the sticker came off and took all of the paint behind it with it. Not the worst thing in the world, but just another tick mark against the vendor for this particular experience. Overall, I can't say I've been ecstatic with the shaft (at least the one).

Driveline shop on Buford HWY “Driveline Service of N.Atl” has a high speed balancer and do good work. These guys told me the same thing about Tw driveshafts that you heard- but I also take that with a grain of salt. TW has a good rep across the industry and to be fair they are best known on Jeep and custom buggy work.

In the end if those driveshafts dont balance out- speak directly to TW not the phone sales guys. I think he will make it right one way or the other.

Fwiw- when I go to replace my driveshaft I’ll go oem. The rear is under $400 and comes built complete (ujoints and DS)

 

[MongooseGA]

Driveline shop on Buford HWY “Driveline Service of N.Atl” has a high speed balancer and do good work. These guys told me the same thing about Tw driveshafts that you heard- but I also take that with a grain of salt. TW has a good rep across the industry and to be fair they are best known on Jeep and custom buggy work.

In the end if those driveshafts dont balance out- speak directly to TW not the phone sales guys. I think he will make it right one way or the other.

Fwiw- when I go to replace my driveshaft I’ll go oem. The rear is under $400 and comes built complete (ujoints and DS)

Funny, I'd only ever heard good things about TW before I bought them, but have read or heard almost all bad since my purchase.

 

[abuck99]

Some interesting info here- ( I don't subscribe to the Jack Stand test- as things happen Murphy would be present in my garage,)

Driveshaft 101 - The Driveshaft Shop

DriveShaft Shop gives a breakdown of high-speed balancing and proper driveshafts and CV Axle applications for European and Modern Muscle cars.

www.driveshaftshop.com

 

[MongooseGA]

Yikes. Yeah, that sounds like a viral video waiting to happen.

 

[SlowBuild]

Yikes. Yeah, that sounds like a viral video waiting to happen.

Bueller?

 

[MongooseGA]

Picked up the TW shaft from the local shop today. Each end was out about 20 grams.

Got it hooked back up when I got home and high-speed tested it. So much better, very smooth now.

FWIW, I did call TW and explained the sitch. They advised me that the warranty states, once another shop has touched it, the warranty is voided. However, since the rebalance was a nominal $40 and a shipping label from TW would have been $50, he went ahead and reimbursed me for the work. Nothing to mention the time and labor to R&R, but beggars can't be choosers. At this point, I am content.

 

[abuck99]

Based on first balance TW put on it, guessing even if you did send it back to them it may not have been returned with any better result. Good deal on the local balance.

 

[MongooseGA]

I received my Asfir skids last week just in time before a wheeling trip. Unfortunately, there was a little more work involved to get them on to my truck that I wasn't able to do the night before leaving. Basically, the legs of the center cross member for the skid needs to go right where the U-bolt lays for the front legs of my sliders. I tried my hardest to get the arm of the support to fit between the U-bolt and frame, but nothing was working. I know my sliders will get more use than this center skid would, so I opted to leave the 2nd and 3rd pieces for another day.

Fast-forward to today: I decided to use spacers on the cross member for the center skid, as discussed in the Asfir threads. However, my sliders were in dire need of repainting, and I wasn't about to install skids over them, so today was armor-refinishing-day.

Pulled the sliders, pulled the ARB tin, hit what I needed to with the grinder and wire wheel, then sprayed everything. No before pics of the sliders, but they've definitely been used well since the last time they were pulled.

 

[MongooseGA]

That front tin and original skid plate were pretty well loved by this point.

While installing the most rearward cross member for the skids, I ran into another problem: My torsion bar adjustment bracket is bent, and it's bent enough that it completely interferes with this cross member going on. So, to the cloud we go. Picked up OEM #4810860010 from eBay for about $25 less than partsouq could get it to me for. Will knock this out asap when it gets in as I have GSMTR at the end of October. (It's not rust! That's all GA clay staining under the truck)

And last and probably least, I had a new Hi-Lift delivered today. My rear bumper from Trail Tailor should be in next week (hopefully) and will be home for this guy.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

That front tin and original skid plate were pretty well loved by this point.

View attachment 2451679

While installing the most rearward cross member for the skids, I ran into another problem: My torsion bar adjustment bracket is bent, and it's bent enough that it completely interferes with this cross member going on. So, to the cloud we go. Picked up OEM #4810860010 from eBay for about $25 less than partsouq could get it to me for. Will knock this out asap when it gets in as I have GSMTR at the end of October. (It's not rust! That's all GA clay staining under the truck)

View attachment 2451684
View attachment 2451687

And last and probably least, I had a new Hi-Lift delivered today. My rear bumper from Trail Tailor should be in next week (hopefully) and will be home for this guy.

View attachment 2451690

Way to go taking care of this. There was another post recently where someone broke one of those adjuster arms, I guess this would be a good time to replace. Are you running front LCA strengthening brackets too?

Also, how was the first trip with triple locked truck? Major difference?

 

[MongooseGA]

Way to go taking care of this. There was another post recently where someone broke one of those adjuster arms, I guess this would be a good time to replace. Are you running front LCA strengthening brackets too?

Also, how was the first trip with triple locked truck? Major difference?

Honestly, I think it may have taken me a while to figure out the issue had I not seen that thread before. Definitely helpful! I added to it a little just this evening. Yes, using the strengthening brackets in the front.

Ok, good question. The trails were pretty slick, so I do have to account for that in my first impression. I knew already that steering with the front locked is somewhere between difficult, dangerous, or impossible. Ideally you'll only lock the front for straight or straight-ish direction. We have a slick-rock section where I'd have been climbing two ledges or a ledge and a crack between the F/R. With the front locked, the whole truck was a lot more susceptible to shift (slide) downward with the obstacle. In this situation and others on wet trails, I found rear locker and letting ATRAC handle the front was actually much more useful than bring triple locked.

Of course, when the sun came out and dried us up a bit, and we found some not-so-slick rocks to play on, the front locker helped a ton with grabbing whatever the tires could form over.

I've run this park and all of the same trails before and did everything I wanted to. The lockers in this circumstance didn't get me anywhere further or faster, but maybe did help me try some things I maybe wouldn't have otherwise. I imagine I'll learn them a lot more in the next few months and hopefully be pretty proficient with them. It's NOT just a matter of "lock them and walk over everything". There's more to consider.

Also I had my dad riding shotgun with me, and he's used to his built TJ, so despite being a really smart guy, the strategies for spotting a truck like ours compared to spotting his truck (which I generally drove) are very different. Fortunately, I'd been mostly lucky in finding my own lines if necessary.

Starting to consider detaching my front sway bar... Going to look more into this.