Help an idiot wire up a simple switch. Internet points awarded. (1 Viewer)

[MongooseGA]

I'm good at some things. I'm also a simple idiot with many things, especially electrical. It's like my brain turns off when I start working with wiring. Pity me. Help me.

I have @LandCruiserPhil 's aux fan kit (highly recommended) and have used the supplied little flip-switch for a while. It sits where the OEM E-locker switch would have gone.

Well, now I have an OEM E-locker switch in that spot, and I need to replace the switch to maintain function of the fan. I had ch4x4.com make me a Toyota switch for the aux fan, and will install it in the blank on this same panel.

The aux fan kit uses a total of 4 wires, one of which runs to a fuse in the DS kick panel, and two of which are joined grounds for a total of 3 at the switch. In the picture below, the wire with 1 dot runs to the fuse.

The new switch uses 4 wires, one of which needs to go to another accessory that is lighted when the headlights are on. I imagine any of the window vents, RSCA OFF, or mirror adjustment would work for this.

So in my sophomoric thought process, it looks like: 1-dot red wire(fused) from fan to (#1) green wire, solid line red wire at the fan to (#2) red wire1, and the joined grounds to #4 ground. What I'm not sure of, where should I connect (#3) red wire2 to have the switch lit with the rest of the panel? Which wire from which neighboring switch?

Also, if I'm wrong on where I'm thinking the connections need to go, let me know.

Hopefully this will transition from a "help me, please" into a DIY with pics to help other idiots like me in the future.

 

[implayaz9]

Following. I want to order the fan too but being that I am scared of electrical stuff, I have been procrastinating.

 

[MongooseGA]

Following. I want to order the fan too but being that I am scared of electrical stuff, I have been procrastinating.

The fan install is very simple and straightforward. Phil gives you everything needed, including the coat hanger to fish the wiring through the firewall.

 

[brm98]

Newb question but what is the fan for? Other than staying cool.

 

[MJK]

I'm getting a little lost in the language in your post, but referencing the package diagram above:

1 Green = 12V fused power source, either constant from battery or (preferably) vehicle switched
2 Red 1 = this appears to be the output trigger for the relay that powers the fans
3 Red 2 = switch illumination jumper. Just steal it from a nearby switch.
4 Black = Ground. Splice into a nearby ground wire or (preferably) wire directly to a chassis ground.

The first two need to have existed as the input and output respectively from your old toggle switch, in order for anything to work. So, you just need add the last two.

Does that answer your question?

 

[hoser]

Why not wire up the aux fan, OE style... automatic triggered via pressure switch?

 

[MongooseGA]

I'm getting a little lost in the language in your post, but referencing the package diagram above:

1 Green = 12V fused power source, either constant from battery or (preferably) vehicle switched
2 Red 1 = this appears to be the output trigger for the relay that powers the fans
3 Red 2 = switch illumination jumper. Just steal it from a nearby switch.
4 Black = Ground. Splice into a nearby ground wire or (preferably) wire directly to a chassis ground.

The first two need to have existed as the input and output respectively from your old toggle switch, in order for anything to work. So, you just need add the last two.

Does that answer your question?

Yes, this mostly answers my question. To clarify- the picture I posted with the 2 red wires and joined black wires, is already in the truck. I've had the fan operational for a while. I just need to join the wiring for the switch to what's there for the fan now. But yes, you did confirm the connections I was planning were correct.

Now, how do I determine which wire on a nearby switch I need to tie into?

 

[MJK]

Now, how do I determine which wire on a nearby switch I need to tie into?

Edit: I am assuming you mean for the "3 Red 2" illumination wire.

You need some voltage sensing device. Digital multimeter, power probe, test light, whatever. Connect one end to ground- anywhere with a bare metal connection to the chassis will do. Then pick the donor switch and probe the leads going into it. It may be easier to disconnect the switch, and probe the harness from within the connector. Any nearby illuminated switch will do, including the left rear window one above it.

You want the wire that has 0V under any circumstances EXCEPT when you have the headlights on. Then it will have positive voltage (probably ~12V). There should only be one wire to the switch that exhibits this behavior.

 

[kruisinkid]

green is input from your fuse into the switch, or B+ most times in car parlance
red 1 is your OUTPUT to the fans relay
black is ground
red 2 is just 12v+ so that when you have dash lights on the switch is illuminated


edit: or another way, green and red1 are the two contacts like on a typical home light switch, black and red 2 are the pos and neg to run just the backlight for the switch

 

[MongooseGA]

Edit: I am assuming you mean for the "3 Red 2" illumination wire.

You need some voltage sensing device. Digital multimeter, power probe, test light, whatever. Connect one end to ground- anywhere with a bare metal connection to the chassis will do. Then pick the donor switch and probe the leads going into it. It may be easier to disconnect the switch, and probe the harness from within the connector. Any nearby illuminated switch will do, including the left rear window one above it.

You want the wire that has 0V under any circumstances EXCEPT when you have the headlights on. Then it will have positive voltage (probably ~12V). There should only be one wire to the switch that exhibits this behavior.

I can do that. Thank you.

 

[ramangain]

@MJK has given you perfect instructions

 

[MongooseGA]

Done.

I found the vent window switch and tested the end of the harness. Found the top left connection was the light wire (looking at the connector head on). Green wire with 2 silver dots every few inches.

I'll do the job tomorrow when there's light out. Thanks! @MJK , much appreciated.

 

[MongooseGA]

Great success! Well, mostly.

I stuck the leads from the new switch harness to all of the existing wiring this morning to confirm operation. All is well. Fan functions properly and the lights came on with the headlights (fun fact, you will get NO accessory lighting in this panel or most of the center console if you've disconnected the dimmer switch in front of the cluster).

For the wire going to the light wire on the nearby vent window switch, I used a simple T-connector. I didn't want to risk cutting through the OEM wire, so this seemed the easiest and least invasive. I tested function each step to be sure everything was working and I wouldn't need to start over at the end.

For the other 3 connections, I used some waterproof, self-soldering connectors. This is overkill for this application, but my cheapo soldering gun was taking forever to get the work heated enough for solder to flow. The first one, I singed a little bit at the very end (second wire from the left in the pic), so I opted to cover the rest with an extra layer of heatshrink for aesthetics. Of course, only the one ended up with any burning. FWIW, I found a standard Bic lighter to be a better way to work with these connectors than the torch/shield that the vendor suggests.

And success! Kinda. This may be where I'll need to contact the switch vendor for a more advanced part. Basically, I was wanting only the text of the button to light up with the headlights, and the light behind the image to have power when the accessory is on. I thought this is what I had when I was testing, but I'm not positive in my memory. Currently, the light for the image is on anytime the key is turned for accessory power, and the text lighting comes on with the headlights. There are 2 bulbs in the switch, one for each portion that would be lit up.

Now that I'm a wizard of wiring, is there something I can do with what I have to achieve this, or am I best ordering a more complex switch now?

 

[kruisinkid]

post a picture of the back of the switch. if there are only 4 contacts, youre kinda screwed. if there are 5 or more than you probably have options.

you can run a jumper OUT of the OUTPUT, which i think was red1 and connect the other end of that short little wire to red2. that way when the switch is ON it will also power whatever the switched light bulb lights up. the lettering?

 

[implayaz9]

I have the same question as @hoser

Why not wire up the aux fan, OE style... automatic triggered via pressure switch?

 

[MongooseGA]

post a picture of the back of the switch. if there are only 4 contacts, youre kinda screwed. if there are 5 or more than you probably have options.

you can run a jumper OUT of the OUTPUT, which i think was red1 and connect the other end of that short little wire to red2. that way when the switch is ON it will also power whatever the switched light bulb lights up. the lettering?

Correct, just the 4 contacts for this switch. I also emailed the vendor to see if what I'm looking for is feasible with this part I have.

To clarify your suggestion, you're saying add in a new wire between the two red wires of the switch harness?

Ideally the image light will only come on when I've turned the fan on, regardless of headlights. The text would light up with the headlights.

I have the same question as @hoser

Why not wire up the aux fan, OE style... automatic triggered via pressure switch?

It's not always needed, only if I'm planning to let the truck idle for a long time with the air on and I would leave it running regardless of what the system wanted. 75lbs of double-coated black fur, I want as much help for the system as possible. I suppose I could have it automated with a pressure switch. Maybe I'll go this route if/when I ever want to put a different accessory in this spot. For now, I've gotten used to it functioning this way.

 

[MongooseGA]

FEATURES:
• The product is manufactured to fit in the OEM space available in your car or truck, simple to install
• Black hard surface rocker.
• Laser etched Legend
• Single upper L.E.D light.
• Single lower L.E.D light.
• Upper light is ON when the switch is pressed IN.
• Lower light can be wired to separate dash light circuit.
• Rated at 3 Amp 12V.
• Wiring diagram supplied with switch


This is from the vendor's website. It leads me to believe it should work as I'm wanting it to, and I've wired something incorrectly. I'm going to go double check my connections and post back here. Maybe I goobered and mixed something up..

 

[kruisinkid]

leave the green wire as is
leave the red1 wire as is
you would snip the red2 wire in half and use another t-tap that would connect red1 and red2
leave the black as is

this would make whatever lights up with the headlights (fan or lettering, still unclear to me) to only turn on with the switch in the ON position. if the lettering or fan image is always on with accessory power, then that wont change unless you get a new switch as the bulb is being powered from the red1 wire and the black wire internally.

 

[kruisinkid]

i would have to see a wiring diagram. or a meter with continuity beeper and able to open up the switch

 

[kruisinkid]

you could take the switch with some spare wire and aligator clips to the truck battery and play and around and see what lights up when. moving the positive wire around to see if it does what you want