Gamiviti 200 series products & solutions (3 Viewers)

[CharlieS]

The 67designs sounds like a better design. I want that wrench tighten feature. I use the Ram arm to tighten approach and it is a hassle.

In case it helps with comparison, the Yakattack metal tab is approximately 1-1/8" long x 1/2" wide.

 

[UPR LC]

The rubber most likely mostly helps with preventing the ball from spinning loose. The 67 Designs ball can be tightened down with a wrench, which seems like a really good idea IMHO.

That's the one problem I had with the RAM ball - it was difficult to get it tight enough to prevent it from spinning loose. Someone suggested putting an arm on really snugly and then using the leverage from that to get the ball tight and that seems to have worked.

I also have issues with keeping the RAM ball (without bolt to tighten) tight on the RAM track. Not a huge issue, I just re-tighten with the RAM arm but it does have a tendency to come loose with arm movement.

 

[NTV]

Continued on my quest to optimize the gamiviti device mount this weekend. I was torn between switching it back to stock form for daily use and the more I have it installed the more I realize how practical it is for daily and adventure uses. I added apples mag safe charging puck to 67 designs puck ball mount. This is now the daily set up for my wife’s iPhone 13 when I am driving and she is in shotgun. I also added the 67 designs mount to my pro clips base along with the 67 designs universal phone mount. Now we are both set up for road trips and our charging and phone holding needs. I also installed the Toyota A pillar adapter which I found fits perfectly into the factory bolt location. I had read that tundras and Tacoma’s worked but had to take an educated guess that it would work for the 200 LC and it did! I went all in on the 67 designs products wit the gamiviti plate and am happy I did. Everything works great and I can easily add another arm or two for garmin in reach and gmrs microphone. Next trip I will take a picture of my full set up for off-road navigation. It is going to look like the cockpit of a fighter plane!

 

[DPA200]

Where do you all get power from for the USB sockets? I did the same Amazon ones most of you all used:

Amazon product ASIN B091CSCH6M
I thought I'd heard something about tapping into the power from the power folding mirrors ? I have a dual battery setup, but my aux battery is a lithium back in my drawer wings. For these little low power USB's I'm fine using just regular power from my main battery. Just curious what others did

 

[CharlieS]

I have a switched accessory circuit on my switchpros that energizes them.

 

[customcruiser]

I tapped into the Cig socket

 

[DPA200]

I just saw this earlier post:

Gamiviti 200 series products & solutions

Order placed for an olive kit and a speaker grill. Thanks @nakman Hey right on, thanks for the order and thanks again everyone here for the continued support. I've got all the bags in stock now except for gray, which is like 2 weeks out... so if you had a back order on something and haven't...

forum.ih8mud.com

"Micro fuse adapters in the link below and I believe I ran the adapter out of the 15amp fuse location for the power inverter"

Sounds like I have options where to get the power from. I have switch pro's, but but I didnt really see the need to wire to that. I have a shop doing the wiring while i'm getting some other things done, so just wanted to make sure i could point them in the right direction. I went and ordered these fuse tap adapters that @toyotabill used

Amazon product ASIN B07T8LRSH7

 

[rlynch356]

Good to know on the Pillar mount from 67D.... I'll be ordering that for the in reach.. working on my plate setup today.. 3 67d Amps Balls, 2 surface mount ARB socket holders. No way to flush mount the sockets since I am using powerwerx QC/USA-A high power sockets primarily for the iPad I use as Nav.. The normal USB-A's do not have enough watts.
the harness I made will be on Anderson plugs in the dash so I can remove it if needed or add in other outputs, etc...

This will run to the engine bay to a relay, and for the moment an add a fuse for IGN trigger, with power coming from the battery directly.
It's a fair amount of work just to add 2 sockets, but I am over building it so I can power some other sources if needed.

 

[CharlieS]

You could also just grab switched and constant power from the driver side fuse panel (with an add-a-fuse) if you want to keep it inside the cab. That was how I had my GMRS wired for a while before I switched it over to the switchpros. Saves transiting the firewall with a wire and the extra hassle involved.

 

[rlynch356]

Thanks but I am going to continue on since the plugs call pull 36w/each (so about 6 amps), and I want to keep the add-on electrical system completely separate from the factory wiring... I'm even cringing using an Add-on fuse for an IGN trigger. That will be replaced soon with a voltage sensing relay so there will be no Tabs into the factory system.

My Defender has 18 years of add-on wiring and is total mess and I'm actively trying Not to do that with the LC200

 

[greynolds]

Thanks but I am going to continue on since the plugs call pull 36w/each (so about 6 amps), and I want to keep the add-on electrical system completely separate from the factory wiring... I'm even cringing using an Add-on fuse for an IGN trigger. That will be replaced soon with a voltage sensing relay so there will be no Tabs into the factory system.

My Defender has 18 years of add-on wiring and is total mess and I'm actively trying Not to do that with the LC200

How does the voltage sensing relay get used to eliminate extra wiring?

What I'm doing for now is using the cigarette socket wiring as a 12V trigger for a relay that gets fused power direct from the battery. I used the following to plug inline with the factory cigarette wiring and then cut off the USB connectors and just use the red wire as the trigger for the relay.

Amazon product ASIN B07TM4DPQS
So no factory wiring was cut into and no add-a-circuit fuse tap was needed. The main thing I don't like about those add-a-circuit taps is that the fuse box cover can't go back on when they're used. Otherwise, I'm reasonably comfortable with using them to get power for triggering a relay.

 

[DPA200]

I used insulated spade and matching female connectors. reverse the one for the ground (male spade on the source side), and that kind of polarizes them so you don't plug them in the wrong way.

View attachment 3227491

Do you have a link to these?

 

[greynolds]

Do you have a link to these?

Just do a search for "spade connectors" - they're super common. Personally, I prefer using the marine grade heat shrink Ancor brand connectors, but there are literally thousands of choices on these, just get matching pairs rated for the size wire you're going to use. If you're having a shop do the wiring for you then they better know what spade connectors are. If they don't, that's a sure sign that you should find another shop... If you are having a shop do the wiring for you, make sure you ask for some references and check them out. I had a relatively simple car stereo install done by a shop back around 2008, didn't check references or check out some jobs they had done and regretted it. They damaged the dash and did kind of a half-a$$ed job. I should have just done it myself, but didn't feel like it.

 

[CharlieS]

Do you have a link to these?

Like said above, super common. I find it more cost effective to buy in bulk than a small quantity.

https://a.co/d/hz6NA0f

Need to have a crimper that is made for insulated terminals.

Although, I'm starting to like the open terminal connectors more. The crimp seems more secure and a better connection. I ordered these yesterday.

https://a.co/d/0ysnXOU

Crimped with a tool like this:

https://a.co/d/1cclChu

Gives crimps like this with strain relief:

 

[DPA200]

Just do a search for "spade connectors" - they're super common. Personally, I prefer using the marine grade heat shrink Ancor brand connectors, but there are literally thousands of choices on these, just get matching pairs rated for the size wire you're going to use. If you're having a shop do the wiring for you then they better know what spade connectors are. If they don't, that's a sure sign that you should find another shop... If you are having a shop do the wiring for you, make sure you ask for some references and check them out. I had a relatively simple car stereo install done by a shop back around 2008, didn't check references or check out some jobs they had done and regretted it. They damaged the dash and did kind of a half-a$$ed job. I should have just done it myself, but didn't feel like it.

Cool thx. Yeah I only have a couple guys I know and trust local to work on my 200. The guy that I'm having do this is a Toyota master tech (works at Lexus) and has helped me with numerous projects related to my dual battery setup. Been very happy with him, not your average Lexus experience. I have some other items I needed done at the dealer anyways, so I'm just having him do this side project while he's got my truck in there

 

[rlynch356]

Test fit… now for power wiring. The sockets are wired up with and Anderson plug for connection..
a voltage sensing relay detects when the alternator is running via voltage rise.. and the same in reverse.
it is connected to the main battery only. So serves as the IGN on lead.
That way no taps, splices, etc are used in any of the AUX circuits. Nothing is working off of the truck wiring at all. You just run your IGN triggers to the Voltage relay. I’ll use a common point for those.
The relay for the dash circuit will be a normal on/off relay, wired to the voltage relay for trigger and main battery for power.

 

[greynolds]

a voltage sensing relay detects when the alternator is running via voltage rise.. and the same in reverse.
it is connected to the main battery only. So serves as the IGN on lead.

Oh, OK - that makes sense, it sees the voltage go from about 12V to about 14V and triggers the relay output. That means a voltage sensing relay probably can't be used as an accessory on trigger as it would require tapping into an existing accessory circuit (to detect going from 0V to 12V) which brings us right back to using an add-a-circuit or other similar approach.

 

[DesmoPilot]

I have a switched accessory circuit on my switchpros that energizes them.

I did the same.

 

[rlynch356]

It senses everything on the main battery for voltage rise… no other trigger..
input from main battery terminal… output to accessories power relay triggers..

No other connections.
(And a gnd obviously…)

 

[DPA200]

I did the same.

Scottsdale? Built HE with a Patriot? Crazy. I'm in Arcadia area, you ever seen my Gold 200 around?

Do you have a local shop that has done any of the work on your 200, or was it all done by Eric?