DoubleNickels
SILVER Star
@Output Shaft , did you go this route with yours, then? Can you snap a picture to share, or perhaps share some part numbers/sources for your fuse block?
Fusible Link Question (1 Viewer)
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@Output Shaft , did you go this route with yours, then? Can you snap a picture to share, or perhaps share some part numbers/sources for your fuse block?
I still have a modified version of the Toyota FL installed. Did away with the unreliable spade connectors on one end.
The fusible link is just a three wire fuse rated to blow before the wiring harness melts. Any fuse that is rated higher than the sum total of the load carried by the harness will accomplish the same thing.
99% of the headaches caused by the FL are not that the link actually melted, it's those damn spade connectors inside the plug making poor contact.
The fusible link is just a three wire fuse rated to blow before the wiring harness melts. Any fuse that is rated higher than the sum total of the load carried by the harness will accomplish the same thing.
99% of the headaches caused by the FL are not that the link actually melted, it's those damn spade connectors inside the plug making poor contact.
That's correct. I have an unused link, though removed from bag, if someone else is looking for one. Listed FS in parts forum for $25.
DoubleNickels
SILVER Star
I'm interested in that. I can't seem to find the FS ad - mind Sending me a PM?
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- #45
DoubleNickels
SILVER Star
Yeah, looks like he only sells the 60's, I'm looking for a 62. He rebuilds 62's, but I can't afford the time to pull mine off, send it to him, and wait for the return.
Thinking I'll just rebuild it per the suggestions on this thread (and others). I also posted in the Wanted-Parts section to see if someone has a junker FJ62 fusible link that I could have Coolerman rebuild as a spare.
Thinking I'll just rebuild it per the suggestions on this thread (and others). I also posted in the Wanted-Parts section to see if someone has a junker FJ62 fusible link that I could have Coolerman rebuild as a spare.
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Replacing a fusible link with a fuse is very risky; particularly using the method previously described in this thread. Common fuses are rated to last over 100 hours at 110% of their nominal current, which means a 30A fuse will NOT burn out at 30A, or even 33A. It can potentially carry as much as 37A without burning. Click this & read the caption:
Automotive Fuses (for phone apps)
A fusible link is NOT sized by the load; it's sized to the WIRE(s) in the circuit feeding the load(s). It's generally 4 gauge sizes smaller (higher number) than the wire, but it takes an engineer to properly select the FL size based on the overall circuit design & safety considerations. Always use the recommended size of FL to replace a damaged FL.
There's actually nothing special about FL wire; only the INSULATION is special. It's formulated to contain the melting wire. So replacing the degraded insulation with random plastic or rubber is NOT safe, either. Heat-shrink tubing is NOT suitable, either. Use only FL wire made with the correct type of insulation.
Fusible Links
There's no reason to keep the round plastic connector shells & spade terminals - if they burn up or degrade, cut them out, trash them, and connect the FL wire directly to the main circuit wire just like any other splice: butt-crimp, solder, or twisting (when done properly) are all acceptable.
Thanks to those who posted pics & specs of the original FL assembly & wires. I'm working on an '88 with a severely-butchered harness, so it's good to know how it was originally built.
1988 Toyota Land Cruiser Base album pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
Automotive Fuses (for phone apps)
A fusible link is NOT sized by the load; it's sized to the WIRE(s) in the circuit feeding the load(s). It's generally 4 gauge sizes smaller (higher number) than the wire, but it takes an engineer to properly select the FL size based on the overall circuit design & safety considerations. Always use the recommended size of FL to replace a damaged FL.
There's actually nothing special about FL wire; only the INSULATION is special. It's formulated to contain the melting wire. So replacing the degraded insulation with random plastic or rubber is NOT safe, either. Heat-shrink tubing is NOT suitable, either. Use only FL wire made with the correct type of insulation.
Fusible Links
There's no reason to keep the round plastic connector shells & spade terminals - if they burn up or degrade, cut them out, trash them, and connect the FL wire directly to the main circuit wire just like any other splice: butt-crimp, solder, or twisting (when done properly) are all acceptable.
Thanks to those who posted pics & specs of the original FL assembly & wires. I'm working on an '88 with a severely-butchered harness, so it's good to know how it was originally built.
1988 Toyota Land Cruiser Base album pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
The fusible link is possibly now my focus on my mystery hard cold start issue. Link to purchasing these available? If it’s cheap, I’m all for just replacing it and keeping my current as a spare.
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Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Lots of confusing info here, so I figured I would chime in.
Circuit protection comes in a few flavors but largely falls into two categories, slow or fast blow. Slow blow fuses (BUSS, FL, blade, etc) are as simple as a hammer, they're bits of metal that melt when subjected to loads greater than their size can carry. This melting takes time, whole seconds sometimes. All this makes them quite economical. Fast blow types are a whole different animal - they blow in milliseconds, and will smoke your $$ just as fast...those puppies get expensive.
Now, the important part - there are tables available from most fuse manufacturers to allow quick selection of the right fuse for your task. There are a few particulars that mildly differentiate the models (i.e. FL and blade), but these can be compared between tables to make sure you're covered. Know the load, check the tables, get your fuse.
Bottom line, current doesn't know what it flows through, it just flows until the circuit breaks. FL can be replaced with different fuse types. Do your homework, then save the dinero.
Circuit protection comes in a few flavors but largely falls into two categories, slow or fast blow. Slow blow fuses (BUSS, FL, blade, etc) are as simple as a hammer, they're bits of metal that melt when subjected to loads greater than their size can carry. This melting takes time, whole seconds sometimes. All this makes them quite economical. Fast blow types are a whole different animal - they blow in milliseconds, and will smoke your $$ just as fast...those puppies get expensive.
Now, the important part - there are tables available from most fuse manufacturers to allow quick selection of the right fuse for your task. There are a few particulars that mildly differentiate the models (i.e. FL and blade), but these can be compared between tables to make sure you're covered. Know the load, check the tables, get your fuse.
Bottom line, current doesn't know what it flows through, it just flows until the circuit breaks. FL can be replaced with different fuse types. Do your homework, then save the dinero.
Gentlemen,
I just had a go-round with the fusible link out here in Germany. Starter problems traced to the 12v/24V converter, and in the process of troubleshooting with the ADAC mechanic- involving lots of starting with a bad relay- I heard a pop, and saw a bunch of smoke around the drivers side battery. After replacing the 12/24V relay, i turned the key and had nothing. So, after looking over Mud posts on fusible links, i located what had gone pop with the smoke. Wire burned in half is a pretty good indication that you have a problem! So, i knocked up a wire to replace it, and it fired up just like always. 24 volts makes for a instant start!
I have a time getting parts for this 80 in Germany, but I have found lots of vendors in United Arab Emirates that sell over ebay, via DHL. Yes, it's more expensive, but the parts show up. Another single strand fusible link was $5, with $20 to ship it. For what's it's worth...
I just had a go-round with the fusible link out here in Germany. Starter problems traced to the 12v/24V converter, and in the process of troubleshooting with the ADAC mechanic- involving lots of starting with a bad relay- I heard a pop, and saw a bunch of smoke around the drivers side battery. After replacing the 12/24V relay, i turned the key and had nothing. So, after looking over Mud posts on fusible links, i located what had gone pop with the smoke. Wire burned in half is a pretty good indication that you have a problem! So, i knocked up a wire to replace it, and it fired up just like always. 24 volts makes for a instant start!
I have a time getting parts for this 80 in Germany, but I have found lots of vendors in United Arab Emirates that sell over ebay, via DHL. Yes, it's more expensive, but the parts show up. Another single strand fusible link was $5, with $20 to ship it. For what's it's worth...
MTB Land Cruise
SILVER Star
You found vendors In AEU that are selling Fusible Links?
MTB Land Cruise
SILVER Star
Sorry,, I meant UAE.
Hi Guys, my first post on the forum here.
I have recently found this thread quite helpful as I needed to replace the fusible links in my HJ.
However in Australia it is almost impossible to buy fusible link wire and even my auto elec said that it is very very rare down here.
So I wanted to replace them with a readily available item of the shelf. As stated above on this thread fuses are not a good substitute for fusible links, but modern plug in fusible links are a direct equivalent, the problem with these is you cant go a buy a housing off the shelf that fits them.
I decided to get some of the bolt on ones and make up a little housing for them that goes on the side of the battery tray.
So far so good, works well. They are neat and tidy, out of the weather, off the shelf from any auto parts store, and if one of them melts it will be contained inside the container and not wreck the other wiring.
Could be an option for other guys that want to move away from the wires, no saying there is anything wrong with the wires, just not easy in the slightest to get a hold of in Aus.
Thanks
I have recently found this thread quite helpful as I needed to replace the fusible links in my HJ.
However in Australia it is almost impossible to buy fusible link wire and even my auto elec said that it is very very rare down here.
So I wanted to replace them with a readily available item of the shelf. As stated above on this thread fuses are not a good substitute for fusible links, but modern plug in fusible links are a direct equivalent, the problem with these is you cant go a buy a housing off the shelf that fits them.
I decided to get some of the bolt on ones and make up a little housing for them that goes on the side of the battery tray.
So far so good, works well. They are neat and tidy, out of the weather, off the shelf from any auto parts store, and if one of them melts it will be contained inside the container and not wreck the other wiring.
Could be an option for other guys that want to move away from the wires, no saying there is anything wrong with the wires, just not easy in the slightest to get a hold of in Aus.
Thanks
rhah
Admit it, your cruisers jealous
While I was in the parts house looking for other things I stumble across this page.
looky looky what I found was those hard to find extra long spade connectors
had my harness melt down on me in Moab and had to rebuild not only the fuseable link but a good chunk of my main harness
all could have been avoided if I could have found these connectors.
state side fuseable link wire is available at all the parts stores, just get some and a couple of these fittings and rebuild your current link for next to nothing still
looky looky what I found was those hard to find extra long spade connectors
had my harness melt down on me in Moab and had to rebuild not only the fuseable link but a good chunk of my main harness
all could have been avoided if I could have found these connectors.
state side fuseable link wire is available at all the parts stores, just get some and a couple of these fittings and rebuild your current link for next to nothing still
Dekeman
SILVER Star
I should know this, but are new factory 60 fusible links - 90982-08135 - NLA?
I see @cruisermatt makes a repair kit, but is OEM gone or just out of stock everywhere?
I see @cruisermatt makes a repair kit, but is OEM gone or just out of stock everywhere?
I believe the 60 links are now NLA. They can be DIY repaired pretty easily and some remaining ones are in stock with aftermarket vendors. I’ve got a fusible link replacement kit in the works that is another option for folks. Quick install, out of the way, easy to replace if it blows. Gimme a month or so.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Pre-pandemic you could still get them. I also had good luck rebuilding mine with fuse wire and all new metal connectors inside the plastic connectors. not hard to do.
Dekeman
SILVER Star
Found a post from Kurt @cruiseroutfit who noted they are NLA as of Nov. 22. @OGBeno later confirmed the last ones at dealers had been snapped up.
Probably a good side business for someone who wants to rebuild / sell refurbished units.
Probably a good side business for someone who wants to rebuild / sell refurbished units.
