2009 lc200 215k miles. I have a faulty fuel sending unit. Fuel gauge and low fuel light not functioning correctly. I recently ordered a complete fuel pump assembly, might as well replace it all while in there. I have not found much info online and the best that I can see, I will have to lower tank. Any advice/input greatly appreciated! Thanks
Fuel Sending Unit (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mikie
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
Somewhat common issue on 4th gen 4runners, not sure about other years. Seems likely a lot of similar parts were used..
This video has some great info on troubleshooting and replacement on a 4Runner.
This video has some great info on troubleshooting and replacement on a 4Runner.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
You go into the tank from the top, after removing the second row seats, and peeling back the carpet. The access hatch is on the passenger side. You need to remove a couple of screws, and a small section of black plastic air ducting. There is a circular access hatch, held down by mastic, a rubber flap, then you can remove the plugs, fuel lines, take off the locking ring, and replace the parts you need to in the pump assembly.
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my LX570 same year and similar miles ran out of gas last year without a light. No issues since and the light seems to be working again, but I’m also making sure I don’t burn the full tank, just in case. Interested in how long the repair is start to finish and total diy cost.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
The hardest part of the job is removing the seats. The 60 side of the 60/40 seat is heavy and awkward. I don't have a robot like the factory... 
Also, I bought a special tool for the locking ring. Don't forget to replace the gasket.
Looks like it is available as a seprate part, and is cheap. Here is the sender for the 16-19, for example:
Fuel Gauge Sending Unit - Toyota (83320-60690)
List Price:$83.70
You Save:$24.83 (29.70% off)
Sale Price:$58.87
Also, I bought a special tool for the locking ring. Don't forget to replace the gasket.
Looks like it is available as a seprate part, and is cheap. Here is the sender for the 16-19, for example:
Fuel Gauge Sending Unit - Toyota (83320-60690)
List Price:$83.70
You Save:$24.83 (29.70% off)
Sale Price:$58.87
bloc
SILVER Star
Just to confirm.. the ring and pump module will come out of that hole without dropping the whole tank?
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Actually, I can't confirm that. I didn't end up replacing the pump, so it may not be possible. My impression was that it would work, but I didn't actually do it, so this can't be considered a confirmation. It may well require dropping the tank to get to it, like the 4Runner. I do think you'd want to get to this anyway, to disconnect the wire connector. At that time, you could test to see if it would be able to come out, and if so, not drop the tank. Nothing really to lose with this approach, and definitely something to gain if it works. Please report back if you do this job.
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The sending unit is bad on our 2008 125K so Im going try to do this in our garage without dropping tank. The weather is going to get crappy here this weekend and I don't want to mess with trying to do it outside. I also have a 4th Gen 4R and I didn't know they were prone to this issue, I may be doing this again real soon.
Were you able to do this from the top, without dropping the tank. I've got access to the top but can't pull the pump all the way out through the top, can only pull it to the side. I might be able to get my hand in there and disconnect the old sending unit but didn't know if there were any tricks you guys came across.
To get the pump out you need to cut slots in the body around the hole and then bend them out of the way. More slits is better, I cut four or five and it was time consuming to bend them back. 8 or 9 should be the right number. The slits are about 1/2” long, you don’t need much more room.
The sealing material is butyl rubber. You can buy it by the foot.
Tin shears work fine for the cutting.
Post in thread 'Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion'
Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/factory-sub-tank-sourcing-and-fitment-discussion.1239785/post-13726333
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bloc
SILVER Star
No I just posted pictures I found online of what it looks like.
Personally there is no way I’d compromise the body just to avoid dropping the tank. First I’d open the carpet and hatch and wash the top of the tank down as clean as possible. Run the tank low based on miles per tank, pump the remaining out at the line junction under the hood using the existing pump, disconnect everything and drop it. Plastic tanks aren’t that heavy when mostly empty.
Also from prior experience with other vehicles I’d definitely have a new pump module o-ring on hand if the part didn’t come with one.
The body isn’t compromised by a few slits around a five inch wide hole. They are all under the butyl if your worried about sealing, not that that could take any pressure in the first place, since it’s just the butyl and no fasteners from the factory.
Question- how does one access the top of the tank after dropping it?
Question- how does one access the top of the tank after dropping it?
bloc
SILVER Star
Slide it out the side. If measurements indicate it won’t fit between the ground and frame, put the rig on ramps first.
New cuts in sheet metal = compromise from original design, by definition. Those cuts may be inconsequential in the long run but having dropped fuel tanks on a few vehicles over the years, (though admittedly not a 200), I’ll still be dropping the tank in the event I need to do this job. If for nothing else than better access to the module and a chance to clean everything well. Also I guess, not having a fuel pump module full of gasoline inside the passenger compartment.
I figured I had no chance getting the tank out without a lift, fwiw. Though I didn’t try and find out for sure one way or the other.
Oh, the fuel pump sender unit is in a little sub tank/bucket made of white plastic, once that drains of casual fuel any remaining is contained inside. Easy to transport and surprisingly simple to handle.
If you do choose to rebuild the pump, don’t forget to move the spacer over.
If you do choose to rebuild the pump, don’t forget to move the spacer over.
Thank you. Followed your advice. Tin snips easily cut through the edge of hole and was able to bend and open the hole up just enough to get her out. Back together now just need to get some new butyl rubber.
at the vehicles age and miles I’m not too concerned about body integrity. Trying to drop fuel tank I would be in for a world of hurt. Rust, snapped bolts. Traumatized just thinking about it. Thanks again.
bloc
SILVER Star
Rust is definitely something that would change the tank-drop equation. Glad you got it figured out.
