Fuel Pump Filter Replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter chap79
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Just did mine. The works (pump, sending unit, etc.) 99% sure it was original from '97 LX450 w/372k miles! Tank inside was pristine.
to protect the wire, I cut a slit in the old rubber fuel pipe (the one that's about 1.5") then slid it across the edge of the frame near the wire and used a piece of safety wire to hold it in place. I'll never worry about that causing a problem; so, I got that goin' for me. Which is nice.
Now that the new pump is in. My vehicle has lost a little low end hesitation that I had when accelerating.
Thanks to all who contributed and made this job a breeze! MUD is the best.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Finish my fuel pump everything new project a few weeks ago.
easy and very straight forward.
I double checked all the fittings the connections the new rubber bushing for the motor and left the fuel tank access hatch open overnight went back and retightened all the rubber seal screws.
easy and very straight forward.I double checked all the fittings the connections the new rubber bushing for the motor and left the fuel tank access hatch open overnight went back and retightened all the rubber seal screws.
brettk
SILVER Star
Thanks for the contributors to this thread. Replaced mine this morning. I opted for the denso unit, but supplemented the included filter with the Toyota filter. It’s about 1/3 bigger and thinner.
for those of you that replaced the sending unit, will you be willing to part out ?
I just need the little fuel level sensor circled in red thanks !
I just need the little fuel level sensor circled in red thanks !
brettk
SILVER Star
PM sent. You can have mine for free.
responded. Thank you ! Gotta love Mud !
Has anyone here gone the generic Denso route? This price is really tempting:
New sending unit as well?Finish my fuel pump everything new project a few weeks ago.
I double checked all the fittings the connections the new rubber bushing for the motor and left the fuel tank access hatch open overnight went back and retightened all the rubber seal screws.
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alia176
SILVER Star
Unless you have to have the perfect cover, it's easy to make one out of whatever! Just a thought.
Cover P/N 58325-60010
Packing P/N 58339-60010
Packing P/N 58339-60010
Thank you!! What’s your source for finding part numbers so quickly?? I’ve really only used partsouq.com but there’s times no matter how many sub categories I navigate to I still can’t find certain parts/PN #’s I’m in search of..
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Are you referring to the fuel level sending unit?
If so no I did not change it. However, I bench test everything with my calibrated Fluke 87 against the factory service manual and it checked out fine.
This was great, thanks for the writeup. A little piece of extra info, which maybe no one else will run into, but on initial installation, I managed to cause the fuel level detector to be stuck and had to take it all back apart when it didn't register upon filling up. Doh! Nothing specific, but I just made sure that I moved the assembly around until it sat easily on the tank rather than me pressing it down. (You'd think I'd learn by now.) Thanks again!
effjay80
SILVER Star
Great info and gunga galunga!to protect the wire, I cut a slit in the old rubber fuel pipe (the one that's about 1.5") then slid it across the edge of the frame near the wire and used a piece of safety wire to hold it in place. I'll never worry about that causing a problem; so, I got that goin' for me. Which is nice.
Just did this. Procedure is spot on. Thanks!
effjay80
SILVER Star
Just completed this morning and *thank you* all for the info and part lists above. I think this was the first replacement since new so I replaced the whole assembly and new pump.
- My old filter kinda had/has a hard plasticy feel not soft meshy like the new replacement. Guess sitting in gas for 25 years will do that...
- My assembly didn't pull straight out of the hole and I had to twist bend and shimmy to pull out. I was thinking nuke detonator but CO would be in trouble if that was the case. Same going back in.
- The screws holding my sender gauge assembly to the bracket were fused on and were a real bear to remove. Thankfully the new sender assembly came with replacement screws as I stripped the old ones.
- I could not get that damned clip on securing the filter and had to race to Ace for a different version.
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Ok, couple of hints/tips:
- figure out where the fuel pump lives under the carpet, then cut a half circle on the carpet.. Why? This way, you won't have to undo the entire carpet in the future for doing PM work. You're more like to do PM if the PITA factor is minimized. You just flip over the flap and access everything.
- using an air compressor, blow out the top of the fuel pump area on top of the tank. I mean REALLY blow it out with high pressure because there WILL be 25 years of accumulated caked on dirt that will fall into your tank if you aren't super anal about this step. Use a skinny flat head to break the crud loose while blowing. Do wear safety glasses and put out that spliff, won't ya?
- while the engine is idling disconnect the connector on top of the tank and kill it dead. Also, open up the filler cap to relieve any residue vapor pressure. Both of these will yield minimal fuel coming out of the pipes once they are opened.
-be SUPER careful when you pull out the whole shebang out of the top access hole. Pretend it's a nuclear bomb detonator and don't let the fragile float hit anything as it can bend easily. Same for when you place it back down, be sure to not make contact with the baffle at the bottom of the tank.
- lastly, take a pic of the fuel gauge on the dash with the key on in order to make sure it shows the same level after your shenanigans!
-while you have everything out, do the PM on the famous wire shorting out on the pump holding bracket which causes the EFI fuse to blow. This ONLY happens when you're rig is completely loaded to the gills and you're in the middle of nowhweresville. In which case, it'll take hours to Dx, then empty your rig to fix the program.. Do a search on this, as this happened to someone in Death Valley.
- drink beer.
Thanks Ali!
I think protecting the green wire is vital and required. Ali supplied a great tip by holding the wire to the tube with a metal wire.
You just need it not to rub the sharp edge. Because you know it will short and fail only when you are fully loaded on a trip!
Also, interesting design difference between the old (gold) and new (silver) OEM banjo bolt. I kept the old one.
Clean the top before you open it up- really clean the seam. You really don't want debris falling into the tank.
Old thread but just saw the quetion about the Denso aftermarket pump.
"Has anyone here gone the generic Denso route? This price is really tempting:"
FWIW I installed a Denso aftermarket pump into my 96 model FZJ80 about six years and 50,000 miles ago using the OEM sock filter, no issues so far.
Also FWIW after cleaning up the top of the pump bracket and reinstalling it with new screws I flooded the top of the bracket (plate as shown in photos above) and everywhere else I could reach on the top of the tank using 3M Cavity Wax Plus to help slow down future corrosion. That product never hardens and isn't specifically designed to hold up to an outdoor environment (wind driven rain for example) but it does contain some sort of rust inhibitor (3M trade secret) and IME will work when used outside a body cavity if that area is relatively protected, like in this situation the top of a fuel tank.
There may be better products but point is, IMHO, the top of the fuel tank needs some sort of corrosion protection as the original coatings break down with time and while you're working on the pump is a good time to apply whichever product you prefer.
FWIW
"Has anyone here gone the generic Denso route? This price is really tempting:"
FWIW I installed a Denso aftermarket pump into my 96 model FZJ80 about six years and 50,000 miles ago using the OEM sock filter, no issues so far.
Also FWIW after cleaning up the top of the pump bracket and reinstalling it with new screws I flooded the top of the bracket (plate as shown in photos above) and everywhere else I could reach on the top of the tank using 3M Cavity Wax Plus to help slow down future corrosion. That product never hardens and isn't specifically designed to hold up to an outdoor environment (wind driven rain for example) but it does contain some sort of rust inhibitor (3M trade secret) and IME will work when used outside a body cavity if that area is relatively protected, like in this situation the top of a fuel tank.
There may be better products but point is, IMHO, the top of the fuel tank needs some sort of corrosion protection as the original coatings break down with time and while you're working on the pump is a good time to apply whichever product you prefer.
FWIW
