That's some strange timing. Thanks.Check out this this current thread:
Engine cuts out during rapid steering left to right.
I have a 1995 landcruiser with an 1996 4.5L 200k. when I first bought it in the first week driving it I found it had this issue of engine cutting out almost seemed fuel related while hard turning left or right. I have been working on the truck for a year now getting rid of all the oil leaks and...forum.ih8mud.com
Fuel Pump Filter Replacement
- Thread starter chap79
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For the amount of work and time involved with this I would just replace the fuel pump if yours is over 200k like mine.
COYS
SILVER Star
who’s got the Toyota part number for the rubber hose piece on top of the fuel pump with the two clamps on it? Hoping it’s not NLA. 
COYS
SILVER Star
Updated OEM parts list with rubber hose on top of fuel pump with two clamps on it (big ups to @NorCalFJ100)
- Fuel Pump 23221-66040
- Sending unit 83320-69055
- Filter, Fuel pump 23217-16490
- Gasket, Fuel junction 77169-60010
- Clip, Fuel filter 23219-03010
- Gasket 90430-12026 x2
- Fuel Pump Hose Clamp 90467-12067 x2
- Rubber hose 23239-11010
alia176
SILVER Star
A thermistor is a temp sensor. The part in question might be called a resistor as the resistance value changes based on the float height. Are you sure it's really bad? Did you move it up/down while connected to a DVM to see if the values are changing? Not much to go wrong with those things, usually.
My issue is with the 'Low Fuel Light' which is a different sensor. The sensor that picks up low fuel is circled in red. The light bulb in the cluster is OK, and I have also tested the circuit at the fuel pump plug. Pretty sure that the little guy is the culprit at this point.
The OEM option is to buy the sending unit, aprox $100... but I saw in eBay you can get a sensor for about $16, but it is not a plug and play option
alia176
SILVER Star
interesting, so that thing is a temp sensor and when the temp changes to a specific number, it thinks the fuel level is below that?
A thermistor is a resistance thermometer, or a resistor whose resistance is dependent on temperature.
Since it is covered in fuel all the time, it's temperature is fairly constant. As the fuel level uncovers the thermistor, it heats up and the resistance changes, telling the light to come on because the light has to come on at "x" resistance.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Ready to roll
alia176
SILVER Star
Ok, couple of hints/tips:
- figure out where the fuel pump lives under the carpet, then cut a half circle on the carpet.. Why? This way, you won't have to undo the entire carpet in the future for doing PM work. You're more like to do PM if the PITA factor is minimized. You just flip over the flap and access everything.
- using an air compressor, blow out the top of the fuel pump area on top of the tank. I mean REALLY blow it out with high pressure because there WILL be 25 years of accumulated caked on dirt that will fall into your tank if you aren't super anal about this step. Use a skinny flat head to break the crud loose while blowing. Do wear safety glasses and put out that spliff, won't ya?
- while the engine is idling disconnect the connector on top of the tank and kill it dead
. Also, open up the filler cap to relieve any residue vapor pressure. Both of these will yield minimal fuel coming out of the pipes once they are opened.
-be SUPER careful when you pull out the whole shebang out of the top access hole. Pretend it's a nuclear bomb detonator and don't let the fragile float hit anything as it can bend easily. Same for when you place it back down, be sure to not make contact with the baffle at the bottom of the tank.
- lastly, take a pic of the fuel gauge on the dash with the key on in order to make sure it shows the same level after your shenanigans!
-while you have everything out, do the PM on the famous wire shorting out on the pump holding bracket which causes the EFI fuse to blow. This ONLY happens when you're rig is completely loaded to the gills and you're in the middle of nowhweresville. In which case, it'll take hours to Dx, then empty your rig to fix the program.
. Do a search on this, as this happened to someone in Death Valley.
- drink beer.
- figure out where the fuel pump lives under the carpet, then cut a half circle on the carpet.. Why? This way, you won't have to undo the entire carpet in the future for doing PM work. You're more like to do PM if the PITA factor is minimized. You just flip over the flap and access everything.
- using an air compressor, blow out the top of the fuel pump area on top of the tank. I mean REALLY blow it out with high pressure because there WILL be 25 years of accumulated caked on dirt that will fall into your tank if you aren't super anal about this step. Use a skinny flat head to break the crud loose while blowing. Do wear safety glasses and put out that spliff, won't ya?
- while the engine is idling disconnect the connector on top of the tank and kill it dead
. Also, open up the filler cap to relieve any residue vapor pressure. Both of these will yield minimal fuel coming out of the pipes once they are opened.-be SUPER careful when you pull out the whole shebang out of the top access hole. Pretend it's a nuclear bomb detonator and don't let the fragile float hit anything as it can bend easily. Same for when you place it back down, be sure to not make contact with the baffle at the bottom of the tank.
- lastly, take a pic of the fuel gauge on the dash with the key on in order to make sure it shows the same level after your shenanigans!
-while you have everything out, do the PM on the famous wire shorting out on the pump holding bracket which causes the EFI fuse to blow. This ONLY happens when you're rig is completely loaded to the gills and you're in the middle of nowhweresville. In which case, it'll take hours to Dx, then empty your rig to fix the program.
. Do a search on this, as this happened to someone in Death Valley.- drink beer.
COYS
SILVER Star
Cushioning things...... DUH!
COYS
SILVER Star
No one's mentioned it yet - added to the list.
- Fuel Pump 23221-66040
- Sending unit 83320-69055
- Filter, Fuel pump 23217-16490
- Gasket, Fuel junction 77169-60010
- Clip, Fuel filter 23219-03010
- Gasket 90430-12026 x2
- Fuel Pump Hose Clamp 90467-12067 x2
- Rubber hose 23239-11010
- Rubber cushion 23249-74610
Can you tell us more about this, or link to a thread on it? I searched and couldn't find anything. I like to do PM on things which are cheap or simple to fix, and if left to fail can leave me stranded. I do a lot of solo trips.
Thanks!
COYS
SILVER Star
Got it all lined up. Next is not to break what wasn’t broken in the first place. 
alia176
SILVER Star
^^^This^^^. Here's a photo of the green wire touching the bracket as discussed in the thread above. The insulation on the wire was starting to chafe from scuffing on the bracket so took a zip tie (not shown) to secure the wire to the pipe:
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That's pretty interesting about the green wire. I replaced my fuel pump about 8 years ago, and didn't notice any issues at the time with that wire chafing. Would anyone recommend pulling the fuel pump out just to inspect that wire? Seems like Mud OCD overkill if I'm not having any issues.
alia176
SILVER Star
YES X 1000%. Wait, too subtle?
That's why I suggested cutting a half moon access hole in the carpet to access the fuel pump. Do everything I mentioned above about taking precautions and other tips. This is a ticking time tomb and should be dealt with. Some folks sleeve it, others zip tie, whatever it takes to not ruin a trip and have your wife/kids be mad at you.
