Fuel Pump Filter Replacement (2 Viewers)

[BillyGoatMTB]

Thanks, i wasn't following my own advice to change it out if I'm touching it. It does seem like rolling the dice on keeping the same pump.

I didn't think to check on the Denso part number, probably the exact same pump just not stamped with MR T signature.

Putting this parts list here for others

Based on my Mud reading and this thread, below is everything needed including a new fuel pump. Did I miss anything? Ill leave this here for the next person looking to do a complete preventive maintenance change out.

Fuel Pump Replacement

• Filter, Fuel pump 23217-16490
• Gasket, Fuel junction 77169-60010
• Clip, Fuel filter 23219-03010
• Gasket 90430-12026 x2
• Fuel Pump 23221-66040
• Fuel Pump Hose Clamps 90467-12067

 

[Kernal]

When I was deciding whether to buy the pricey OEM pump or the Denso aftermarket part I contacted an individual at Denso and asked them if the Denso pump was the same quality as the Toyota/Denso pump. They said it was made in Japan in the same factory, same line, same quality of parts as the Toyota pump. He also said the Denso pump had a slightly different (?wider) PSI range than the Toyota pump because it may fit other applications., IIRC.

 

[COYS]

Here's the slightly cleaned up parts list from Billy's post:

• Fuel Pump 23221-66040
• Filter, Fuel pump 23217-16490
• Gasket, Fuel junction 77169-60010
• Clip, Fuel filter 23219-03010
• Gasket 90430-12026 x2
• Fuel Pump Hose Clamp 90467-12067 x2

Per the Denso site, it looks like this is their version when I looked up '97 LC:

But the pricing via partsouq for the Mr. T version is only $25 more so I just went with that. Total with shipping for me came to be ~$300 USD.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Here's the slightly cleaned up parts list from Billy's post:

• Fuel Pump 23221-66040
• Filter, Fuel pump 23217-16490
• Gasket, Fuel junction 77169-60010
• Clip, Fuel filter 23219-03010
• Gasket 90430-12026 x2
• Fuel Pump Hose Clamp 90467-12067 x2

Per the Denso site, it looks like this is their version when I looked up '97 LC:

View attachment 2650649

But the pricing via partsouq for the Mr. T version is only $25 more so I just went with that. Total with shipping for me came to be ~$300 USD.

Awesome thanks

MrT it is, gonna get on this tomorrow

 

[COYS]

Start the engine and remove the connector on the fuel pump or simply pull the FP relay or circuit opening relay and let the engine stall. That will minimize the pressure in the fuel line.
Remove the fuel fill cap. That will remove the pressure in the tank.

Would also working on a cold truck keep the fuel from spraying or is the disconnecting method + opening gas cap the correct procedure?

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Would also working on a cold truck keep the fuel from spraying or is the disconnecting method + opening gas cap the correct procedure?

Typically fuel systems hold pressure for some time after the engine's been shut off. I know on my Tacoma 3rz takes about 30 to 40 minutes to bleed off most of the pressure, I plan to work on my 80 after it's set overnight and maybe having the gas cap opens a good idea too.

Can't be too safe when it comes to fuel

 

[jonheld]

Would also working on a cold truck keep the fuel from spraying or is the disconnecting method + opening gas cap the correct procedure?

There is a check valve in the pump that is supposed to keep pressure in the fuel system for rapid starts. The length of time it will keep pressure is determined by the condition of the valve and the injectors. Roll the dice and see what numbers come up.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Does anyone know the part number for these OEM clamps pictured?
@Onur, @cDan. View attachment 2247904

Anyone know the part number for that tiny piece of fuel line? Anything else i should replace while i have her appart besides the parts below? Thanks

• Fuel Pump 23221-66040
• Filter, Fuel pump 23217-16490
• Gasket, Fuel junction 77169-60010
• Clip, Fuel filter 23219-03010
• Gasket 90430-12026 x2
• Fuel Pump Hose Clamp 90467-12067 x2

 

[Mat Jadamec]

it may be more work than planned but I'd definitely check the tank breather hose to the filler breather tube and clamps

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

it may be more work than planned but I'd definitely check the tank breather hose to the filler breather tube and clamps

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll have a look at it.

Parts ordered from Mr T

 

[Mat Jadamec]

I'd show you what mine looked like at 270K in New England but don't want to scare people... considering the mileage you have and my experience I wouldn't miss the chance to check and replace it. I did get that small tube from the pump from a toyota dealer but can't find the part no. on my desk... Also, I pulled the fuel in the tank out via the breather tube on the pump hanger/access plate assy with a siphon pump and some fuel hose.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

I'd show you what mine looked like at 270K in New England but don't want to scare people... considering the mileage you have and my experience I wouldn't miss the chance to check and replace it. I did get that small tube from the pump from a toyota dealer but can't find the part no. on my desk... Also, I pulled the fuel in the tank out via the breather tube on the pump hanger/access plate assy with a siphon pump and some fuel hose.

I want to see those photos how bad did your strainer look?

 

[Mat Jadamec]

My strainer was stained by did not have debris on it. I kept it as a spare. I put a used tank in and wish I had not. Back fit of a new tank and skid plate is on the to do list.... I warned you...the tube end on the filler tube was nearly corroded completely off inside the hose on the other end.

 

[ItsBavid]

Tell me what you guys think, I think my fuel pump is failing. This has happened twice now. My rig has completely died on me during sketchy Hill climbs that involve a tight turn (so far when turning right if that means anything). It just stalls, still have battery power. I safely make it back down to a safe spot, sometimes still on an incline, and turn it over and it starts just fine.

 

[Kernal]

Check out this current thread:

Engine cuts out during rapid steering left to right.

I have a 1995 landcruiser with an 1996 4.5L 200k. when I first bought it in the first week driving it I found it had this issue of engine cutting out almost seemed fuel related while hard turning left or right. I have been working on the truck for a year now getting rid of all the oil leaks and...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[alia176]

Tell me what you guys think, I think my fuel pump is failing. This has happened twice now. My rig has completely died on me during sketchy Hill climbs that involve a tight turn (so far when turning right if that means anything). It just stalls, still have battery power. I safely make it back down to a safe spot, sometimes still on an incline, and turn it over and it starts just fine.

If you're suspecting the fuel system, stop guessing and install a test gauge port in the fuel rail, somewhere. Some folks do this at the fuel rail near the firewall or at the fuel filter. Install a pressure gauge, then tape it to your windshield and watch it while driving. This will tell you everything you need to know about your fuel pump - fuel filter clogging, fuel sock clogging or the actual pump failing intermittently due to either age or some sort of a wiring issue.

 

[toyofan]

Float has nothing to do with the low level light.

That little round metal thing next to the pump is called a thermistor, that is what turns on the low level light.

As the fuel level goes below this it actually warms up and closed the circuit to turn on the light.

Does anybody know the P/N of the thermistor ? I think mine is bad. Thanks !

 

[COYS]

Does anybody know the P/N of the thermistor ? I think mine is bad. Thanks !

I read that you have to buy the sending unit as T doesn’t sell the therm separately.

Updated OEM parts list with sending unit:

• Fuel Pump 23221-66040
• Sending unit 83320-69055
• Filter, Fuel pump 23217-16490
• Gasket, Fuel junction 77169-60010
• Clip, Fuel filter 23219-03010
• Gasket 90430-12026 x2
• Fuel Pump Hose Clamp 90467-12067 x2

All the parts arrived. I’ll wait for the sending unit to get here before I fix something that’s not broken on my 80.

 

[MickeyB]

I read that you have to buy the sending unit as T doesn’t sell the therm separately.

Updated OEM parts list with sending unit:

• Fuel Pump 23221-66040
• Sending unit 83320-69055
• Filter, Fuel pump 23217-16490
• Gasket, Fuel junction 77169-60010
• Clip, Fuel filter 23219-03010
• Gasket 90430-12026 x2
• Fuel Pump Hose Clamp 90467-12067 x2

All the parts arrived. I’ll wait for the sending unit to get here before I fix something that’s not broken on my 80.

View attachment 2659632

Thxs just bought one of those fuel senders for when I replace my fuel pump.

 

[MickeyB]

Tell me what you guys think, I think my fuel pump is failing. This has happened twice now. My rig has completely died on me during sketchy Hill climbs that involve a tight turn (so far when turning right if that means anything). It just stalls, still have battery power. I safely make it back down to a safe spot, sometimes still on an incline, and turn it over and it starts just fine.

Depending on miles and age of current fuel pump I would replace. It’s pretty easy job consider you don’t need to drop the fuel tank. Pump is pretty cheap. I had the pump and was going do to mine earlier never did. When on trip this weekend and Cruiser died on me several times while on the highway. Pretty scary experience so I’m replacing mine immediately along with the relays. Not even 100% sure if that’s what it is, but at the end of the day once it’s replaced that on less thing you have worry about.