Front Lower Control Arm Romoval/Replacement

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I just removed my passenger side front LCA and thought I was being smart and wratchet strapped the hub to the upper control arm. Didn’t really think it through and when I removed the LCA the hub assembly was supported by the UCA/axle.
Any chance I damaged anything? I’ve since strapped it to the frame as well as putting a jack under where the ball joint would go.

How would I know if the axle has been pulled out of the diff? To clarify I am wondering if letting the knuckle/hub rest on the upper control arm with no support underneath would the axle come out of the diff even just a little? But the more I think about it, I doubt that would happen since I still had the tie-rod end connected as well as the knuckle to the UCA. I imagine it would would pretty hard to pull the axle out of the diff with those still connected? Is there anything in the suspension/frame that limits how down the UCA can travel on it's own?

The droop didn’t appear to be too much.. axle appeared to be fairly straight?

View attachment 2641383

You're good!
 
Grind it thinner or do what I did (took two tapered punches and tapped them up against the flats (both sides) of the nut so it couldn't turn. Then use a hammer to tap the punches back and forth to loosen them to remove.
I'm tackling this right now as well and its my understanding that you crank on the bolt and not the nut. As the nut has teeth to bite into the arm to keep it from loosening. I didnt see anything in the FSM on procedures. I'm assuming you have to take a ride height measurement for reference with the truck on the ground before you start taking things apart and torquing this rear bolt first/separately when reinstalling. At least this is what im going to do because i dont see another way.
 
I'm tackling this right now as well and its my understanding that you crank on the bolt and not the nut. As the nut has teeth to bite into the arm to keep it from loosening. I didnt see anything in the FSM on procedures. I'm assuming you have to take a ride height measurement for reference with the truck on the ground before you start taking things apart and torquing this rear bolt first/separately when reinstalling. At least this is what im going to do because i dont see another way.
I wondered the same thing actually. I noticed those little teeth on the nut and I was also under the impression that the nut needed to stay stationary. I think I am going to torque everything but that rear bolt down down at ride height and then mark the control arm position, remove the torque arm housing and tighten the bolt. Seems like such a freaking bad design.

although if you look at those bolts new they have some kind of thread lock applied so maybe Toyota realized you can’t tighten the bolt down easily so they coated the bolts with thread lock?
 
I wondered the same thing actually. I noticed those little teeth on the nut and I was also under the impression that the nut needed to stay stationary. I think I am going to torque everything but that rear bolt down down at ride height and then mark the control arm position, remove the torque arm housing and tighten the bolt. Seems like such a freaking bad design.

although if you look at those bolts new they have some kind of thread lock applied so maybe Toyota realized you can’t tighten the bolt down easily so they coated the bolts with thread lock?


It's a serrated flange nut. The bolt or nut may be turned. The serrations are directional and designed to resist rotation in the direction that would loosen the nut. It is perfectly fine to turn the nut if you desire. In fact... they are designed to mar/displace the base material they ride against.

Serrated Nut.jpg
 
Last edited:
It's a serrated flange nut. The bolt or nut may be turned. The serrations are directional and designed to resist rotation in the direction that would loosen the nut. It is perfectly fine to turn the nut if you desire. In fact... they are designed to mar/displace the base material they ride against.

View attachment 2694116

That is one fancy set of nutz you got there sir! Didn't mean to stare...
:p
 
Toyotas nuts and bolts do not look serrated to me. I ended up flipping the bolt and nut around and secured the control arm this way so that i can torque the bolt. Hopefully it'll stay in place. We'll see
 
Toyotas nuts and bolts do not look serrated to me. I ended up flipping the bolt and nut around and secured the control arm this way so that i can torque the bolt. Hopefully it'll stay in place. We'll see
The Toyota nuts for the LCA are definitely serrated.
 
I’m doing this right now. After reading the thread it dawned on me that I logged my ride height during AHC tuning. So I’m going to jack up the LCA until the center of the spindle is 535mm from my fender edge. No tension on TB, torque everything down.

Everyone’s going to have a slightly different nominal measurement. My notes say 500mm is stock and slee sets up 540 to 550mm.

34B1B93D-B005-4FC0-A66C-4BE6AFB3D854.webp
 
Last edited:
I'll translate this for other Southerners that come along: "Acme rod" = "all-thread" = "threaded rod"
 
I'll translate this for other Southerners that come along: "Acme rod" = "all-thread" = "threaded rod"

ACME is specific thread profile that can handle a lot more load. It's still an "all thread"/"threaded rod" but it's a very specific type.
 
ACME is specific thread profile that can handle a lot more load. It's still an "all thread"/"threaded rod" but it's a very specific type.
I have learned a new thing today! Thank you!

And to think it was just Roadrunner's go-to supplier... :hillbilly:
 
Yep, acme threads are special load bearing threads.

The parts list below was paired with one of the larger cups from a ball joint press kit like this to receive the bushing.

Amazon product ASIN B01N7CO50EYou can also rent these kits.


IMG_6575.JPG


Here's my order from McMaster-Carr:

QtyEachDescriptionPNExtended
2$3.68Carbon Steel Acme Hex Nut, Right Hand, 5/8"-8 Thread Size94815A108 $7.36
1$21.24Alloy Steel Acme Lead Screw, Right Hand, 5/8"-8 Thread Size, 12" Long93410A932$21.24
1$4.62Black-Oxide Steel Oversized Washer for 7/8" Screw,
0.906" ID, 1.828" OD, 0.230"-0.255" Thick, Packs of 1
98029A056$4.62
2$2.6Black-Oxide Steel Oversized Washer for 5/8" Screw,
0.719" ID, 1.250 OD, 0.230"-0.255" Thick, Packs of 1
98029A053$5.2
Total$38.42


Its a grade 7 screw, with 125,000psi tensile strength. I didn't run the numbers for what it can assert to the bushing ... but estimating it now to roughly 20,000lb breaking strength, assuming 1/2in diameter solid inside the threads. Cross-section area in inches * tensile strength in PSI ... YMMV, but my bushing popped out!

IMG_6576.JPG
IMG_6578.JPG
 
Yep, acme threads are special load bearing threads.

The parts list below was paired with one of the larger cups from a ball joint press kit like this to receive the bushing.

Amazon product ASIN B01N7CO50EYou can also rent these kits.


View attachment 3423090

Here's my order from McMaster-Carr:

QtyEachDescriptionPNExtended
2$3.68Carbon Steel Acme Hex Nut, Right Hand, 5/8"-8 Thread Size94815A108 $7.36
1$21.24Alloy Steel Acme Lead Screw, Right Hand, 5/8"-8 Thread Size, 12" Long93410A932$21.24
1$4.62Black-Oxide Steel Oversized Washer for 7/8" Screw,
0.906" ID, 1.828" OD, 0.230"-0.255" Thick, Packs of 1
98029A056$4.62
2$2.6Black-Oxide Steel Oversized Washer for 5/8" Screw,
0.719" ID, 1.250 OD, 0.230"-0.255" Thick, Packs of 1
98029A053$5.2
Total$38.42


Its a grade 7 screw, with 125,000psi tensile strength. I didn't run the numbers for what it can assert to the bushing ... but estimating it now to roughly 20,000lb breaking strength, assuming 1/2in diameter solid inside the threads. Cross-section area in inches * tensile strength in PSI ... YMMV, but my bushing popped out!

View attachment 3423097View attachment 3423098
This will really help someone in the future! Me, I have PTSD from changing out all the control arms and specifically this bushing!
 
Yep, acme threads are special load bearing threads.

The parts list below was paired with one of the larger cups from a ball joint press kit like this to receive the bushing.

Amazon product ASIN B01N7CO50EYou can also rent these kits.


View attachment 3423090

Here's my order from McMaster-Carr:

QtyEachDescriptionPNExtended
2$3.68Carbon Steel Acme Hex Nut, Right Hand, 5/8"-8 Thread Size94815A108 $7.36
1$21.24Alloy Steel Acme Lead Screw, Right Hand, 5/8"-8 Thread Size, 12" Long93410A932$21.24
1$4.62Black-Oxide Steel Oversized Washer for 7/8" Screw,
0.906" ID, 1.828" OD, 0.230"-0.255" Thick, Packs of 1
98029A056$4.62
2$2.6Black-Oxide Steel Oversized Washer for 5/8" Screw,
0.719" ID, 1.250 OD, 0.230"-0.255" Thick, Packs of 1
98029A053$5.2
Total$38.42


Its a grade 7 screw, with 125,000psi tensile strength. I didn't run the numbers for what it can assert to the bushing ... but estimating it now to roughly 20,000lb breaking strength, assuming 1/2in diameter solid inside the threads. Cross-section area in inches * tensile strength in PSI ... YMMV, but my bushing popped out!

View attachment 3423097View attachment 3423098

Thanks a bunch!
 
This will really help someone in the future! Me, I have PTSD from changing out all the control arms and specifically this bushing!
Hey it's me from the future!

Just placed this exact order from mcmaster-carr and happy to report only $0.50 of inflation on the materials :clap:. Sometimes I'll dig up an old thread for OEM parts and then quietly cry over the change in price over the years. I'll be replacing LCAs, bushing 2, and hopefully finding a way to slip in new lower shock bushings as well. Do they all need to be replaced? Maybe not... but the longer my southern rig lives up here in NY the harder it'll be to do these things myself.
 
It's a serrated flange nut. The bolt or nut may be turned. The serrations are directional and designed to resist rotation in the direction that would loosen the nut. It is perfectly fine to turn the nut if you desire. In fact... they are designed to mar/displace the base material they ride against.

View attachment 2694116
they are not serrated nuts, but actual raised radial bars. the frame has receiving indentations...if you loosen the single nut, the bars become destroyed, and takes 10x the force.
 
Mc-Master Carr order worked great! I paired it w/ the rented #648617 ball joint press receiving cup from advance auto. The kit didn't haven't anything the correct OD to push bushing #2 out but it turns out that nipple for 2" OD galvanized pipe fits nice and snug just about the same size as the 1.828 OD washer. Pushed it right out - I just had to help it back out in the reverse direction with the washer.

1758566048524.webp


Lower shock bolts were another story...

1758566092104.webp


They we're so shot that the ram was actually making contact with the lower control arm. Excited to get back on the road once I figure out what madness I caused with my torsion bars. Thought my paint marks lined up but I have a ton of slack in the adjustment bolts even when my adjustment bolt threads reach their old position.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom