Front Drive Shaft / Differential leak; Oil Seal & dust cover replacement (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
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I’d enjoy watching a video of removing the CV axle while the lower end of the spindle still connected. Always like to learn new techiques.
I attempted that before but spent more time fiddling around with getting the last little part of the axle stub out of the hub, than it took me to remove the spindle completely and pulling axle. To me much easier/faster to remove and install the axle with out spindle in the way- (maybe an extra 20min work to remove spindle all together.)
I attempted that before but spent more time fiddling around with getting the last little part of the axle stub out of the hub, than it took me to remove the spindle completely and pulling axle. To me much easier/faster to remove and install the axle with out spindle in the way- (maybe an extra 20min work to remove spindle all together.)
i accidentally ordered two of the same thinking they were the same. determined that i needed
9031147027 passenger side
9031147013 driver side
i was in a pinch and needed a passenger side seal immediately. had to buy a national at oreilys. was pleasantly surprised to see it was made in japan.
View attachment 2274376
Yep. Here's a little surprise about National seals. National's parent company Federal Mogul (FM) (shown on the box) and now part of Tenneco is a Toyota supply chain partner.
FM supplies parts to Toyota and periodically receives their supplier award. I often find National to be reboxed OEM or OEM is repackaged National however you want to look at it.
Other parts that I've found to be reboxed OEM and vice versa are from FM's Intermotor division. I can usually buy OEM (online) for less than it costs to buy Intermotor parts locally at stores like O'Reilly.
But when I'm in a pinch, and I can't wait for an OEM part delivery, I know I can pay a "high price" and get Intermotor locally.
Federal-Mogul Motorparts Receives Supplier Award from Toyota
Southfield, Michigan, March 28, 2018 - Federal-Mogul Motorparts, a leading global supplier of products and services to the world’s manufacturers and servicers of vehicles and equipment in the...
Here's a picture of an Intermotor Toyota 5VZ-FE fuel injector that turned out to be a reboxed Aisan (Denso) from Japan.
This also works for Honda as I have purchased Intermotor parts and get identical Denso parts in the box.
National Seals and Intermotor parts are not cheap. But when you are in a pinch, and you need quality, they offer a local alternative.
personally I'd remove the caliper etc rather than putting the pressure on the line shown there
- Thread starter
- #65
Very bad and dangerous job. I'd not let him work on my lawn mower.
I remove caliper as stated. I also get axle out of differential first. I do not remove steering TRE bracket off knuckle.
He put way to much pressure on brake line.
He did not replace diff side seal 50/50 it leaks. Best practice when replacing FDS.
The leak he had at inner boot may have only been the typical small clamp weep. This was not a reason to replace a front drive shaft. He may have took a good FDS and replace with junk a AF FDS needlessly!
Notice the two bolts holding on TRE bracket to steering knuckle had red on threads. He did not lock-tight the threads with more red. Very dangerous vehicle now.
He used electric driver to start and torque all bolts. Very bad practice, oh but he's fast.
He did not even use a torque wrench.
Guys I could go on about this video. I'll just say it is a hack job and could lead to vehicle losing control.
I remove caliper as stated. I also get axle out of differential first. I do not remove steering TRE bracket off knuckle.
He put way to much pressure on brake line.
He did not replace diff side seal 50/50 it leaks. Best practice when replacing FDS.
The leak he had at inner boot may have only been the typical small clamp weep. This was not a reason to replace a front drive shaft. He may have took a good FDS and replace with junk a AF FDS needlessly!
Notice the two bolts holding on TRE bracket to steering knuckle had red on threads. He did not lock-tight the threads with more red. Very dangerous vehicle now.
He used electric driver to start and torque all bolts. Very bad practice, oh but he's fast.
He did not even use a torque wrench.
Guys I could go on about this video. I'll just say it is a hack job and could lead to vehicle losing control.
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for the record, I was not posting it as an example of best practices... it was just the first vid I found of the general process!
i almost posted that video too because it's the only one i know of showing the quick method. but for reasons stated above, its not to be emulated. it also shows that its a little struggle to do. i know if you do it right it's possible but i just pulled the whole knuckle. its easier to deal with the axle with nothing in the way. but be careful because the whole knuckle is dang heavy!
So I just replaced my driver's side seal today (again--I just put a new one in when I put in my rebuilt front diff, but apparently screwed it up by driving it in too far [I assumed it would sit against a shoulder . . . ] and then trying to get it back out).
No telling yet if this one will leak. But if it does, I'm going to be tempted to buy the SST the FSM says to use, which is $53 here, provided they'll let non-dealers buy 'em. I've already spent that much on seals at this point . . .
No telling yet if this one will leak. But if it does, I'm going to be tempted to buy the SST the FSM says to use, which is $53 here, provided they'll let non-dealers buy 'em. I've already spent that much on seals at this point . . .
- Thread starter
- #69
Many times I've set seal just a little to far in, or not square (one side to far in). I push back out from rear of seal, leveraging off inner tube of diff on metal backing plate in seal.
See post #27 Front Drive Shaft / Differential leak; Oil Seal & dust cover replacement
My ~3/4" X 1" X 24" wooden (oak) stick has serviced me well for years, to seat seal.
Great care needs to be taken installing axle, through greased seal. So one does not move/hit seal.
See post #27 Front Drive Shaft / Differential leak; Oil Seal & dust cover replacement
My ~3/4" X 1" X 24" wooden (oak) stick has serviced me well for years, to seat seal.
Great care needs to be taken installing axle, through greased seal. So one does not move/hit seal.
Thanks!
When I realized I'd pushed my first replacement seal in too far, I used a Lisle seal puller with a screwdriver across the axle tube to act as a fulcrum for it, but I think I still bogered up the part of the seal that sticks out. Or maybe I got sloppy putting the axle back in and knocked it out of alignment. Or both.
I was super careful putting the new seal in, and kept measuring it with a straightedge across the axle tube end. Stopped _just_ shy (maybe 1/16" shy of the seal lip being completely flush with the axle tube end. I did get it in very straight, as far as I could tell with the axle in place in the truck, anyway.
So far I've put three miles on my new seal (grocery run) . . . not a real acid test, but no drops yet . . . fingers crossed.
Partsouq shows the old part number (90311-47012) for the right side - Make: Toyota, Not Available.
It also shows - Make: Musashi, $3.71
Below that it lists the new part number (90311-47027) as one of many Substitutions - Make: Toyota, $7.62
My local dealership online store only lists the new part number. I ordered the Musashi part as part of a bigger PartSouq order since it was cheap but I don’t want to use it if it’s not OEM, it’s too much of a hassle to change it out to save a few bucks on sub par rubber.
A few questions:
1. I’ve never heard of Musashi, do they make OEM parts?
2. On the parts diagram, PartSouq only shows the original part number, but lists the superseding part as a substitution. Is this typical?
3. Should I just order the superseding part from my local online to be safe?
FYI: for anyone in the Northeast, maybe check out Toyota of Nashua online parts. The past few orders they’ve beat out both McGeorge and Camelback (but not PartSouq - shipping is the difference maker). I don’t know what shipping’s like because I drive in and pick up in person but maybe worth a gander. Its just online though; if I just show up at the parts desk it costs easily double.
Thank you I’ll get that one as well. Better safe than sorry.
Can someone look over these pix and help me figure out why my seal leaked?
Picture #3 shows it’s not installed correctly. Seated in too far on top. The flat face of the seal should be even or (just slightly raised past it-)with the recessed edge of the race- and evenly pressed in all the way around.
Also, tube looks a little crusty. Did you clean it up under where the seal sits?
But yeah - crooked seal is #1 culprit I see.
Yeah, need to clean that up a bit I think. I just knocked it in. It's kinda a PITA to install right.
- Thread starter
- #78
If you read through the thread. You'll see, that seal can be levered out, to square it up.
I've found the best tool to seat the oil seal. Is an oak stick ~3/4" x 1 "x 2'. Tap seal in with stick and small hammer. The flat end of stick come in contact with the diff's inner shelf and flat area of seal. The lip of seal will ride alongside the stick. Tap tap tap and tap some more gently around the seal, taking down evenly. Until stick butts the shelf.
Above you see a ssel sit tool, is a common stick just lying around. You may find something else you can use to aid in seating flush.
These days, I use a seal seating tool Joey (@NLXTACY) at Wits'end designed & sells. Works very well!. Saves me about 20 minutes per set of seas. Fits both side of diff., both seals and seat perfectly every time and is faster. Provided one preps surface of diff. first, by scraping any crud, rust mud out that may keep tool from seating flush to target surface.
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Do you leave the entire lip/skirt of that seal "proud" of the diff face?
- Thread starter
- #80
