Front Drive Shaft (AKA CV’s) reboot, Help! (3 Viewers)

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I only have 2.2 & 2.4mm hub flange snap rings on hand so it will be day or so more until I test drive.
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Standard 2.2 (2.16MM) plus .46mm feel gauge.
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Good update- I told ya those replacement band clamps are hard to get to crimped to factory spec with the pliers type tool- requires the OTC Tool I suggested.
 
Good update- I told ya those replacement band clamps are hard to get to crimped to factory spec with the pliers type tool- requires the OTC Tool I suggested.
I really need to get that tool before any more band tightening.

Be cool if you post that/those tools in this thread also;)
 
This is the tool

OTC 4722 Stinger Heavy-Duty CV Boot Clamp Installer

Link: tool

I came across this interesting bugger for pulling CV axles, no experience with it but it looks like an interesting way to pull the axle out with out hammering it

Puller
 
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THX @abuck99 I'm going to get that for my tool box, sooner or later I'll need it.

With snow predicted for tomorrow I wanted to get this front end button up. So I managed to get the last 2.6 mm SR (snap ring) in the state today, 30 mile drive and twice the price but happy to have it.

Wheel bearing breakaway pre-load set to 12.5lb on both PS & DS.
PS hub flange to SR gap was >0.04mm with the 2.6mm SR. DS was 0.15mm gap with a 2.4mm SR.

So next I torque on the calipers to 90ft-lbf, attached the speed sensor and brake line brackets and mounted the wheel & tires.

Then put ~1.8qt of M1 75-90 LSD in the differential and button up with new drain & fill plug washer (gaskets).

I was on a roll, and felt it a good idea for test drive to lube propellers first. On a roll until I pulled out my pneumatic (Harbor Freight) grease gun. It's great once I get grease gun flowing, but getting it primed, is a 30 minutes job on a good day... PITA. But it really works well for grease the propeller shaft slip yokes and spiders. A little trick I learned; is to massage slip yoke seal with grease, then used the pneumatic power and compression of drive train to pump yoke in and out. Gently, not exerting to much pressure on differential & transfer case with the pneumatic pressure.
Worked like a charm again, as grease passed the seal(s).:rimshot:
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Finally the test drive. It was sweet no vibration, handle was tight and steering true. This was also my first drive since pulling intake, and it ran like a dream. The Redbarons' got pep.:steer::steer::steer:
 
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Vise made easy work of filling outboard boot with grease.

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Took all my weight on crimpers to tighten outboard clamps, and they could still take more squeezing if needed. Those are for sure heavier than the factory clamps.
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They changed snap ring so it no longer has eyelets. Unfortunately my various snap ring tool attachments disappeared long ago. Made getting on a little more difficult for me. One went right on the other kept slipping off my tool (5 min extra).
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I know the grease for the inboard and outboard joints has different part number. Do you know if they are the same grease, just different amount?
 
I know the grease for the inboard and outboard joints has different part number. Do you know if they are the same grease, just different amount?
Same grease.
 

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