Front diff bushing replacement?

[Roosevelt T]

Hey guys, so it looks like we cant just replace the bushings in the diff support arms? We need to replace the entire arms?

52380-60040	SUPPORT ASSY, DIFFERENTIAL	Rear DS arm & bushing
52380-60030	SUPPORT ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL	Rear PS arm & bushing

Mine do not look too bad. To be honest the diff bushing itself (41651-60010) doesn't look that bad either, but the diff is out so I am going to do it.

Whats the opinion on the diff support arms? Worth it? I think I read @2001LC stating that it didnt make a big difference in his experience.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

I literally did it on camera without an air hammer.



For me, this was not the hardest part of the process, but getting the second one back in. Finally went in after I sanded down the mount and filed the bushing a tad. That thing just wouldn't start to press in!

All that said, my bushing probably wasn't even bad. Compare the end of the video above to previous condition.
Land Cruiser 100 series driveline clunk

Hope on manual labor is restored. Thanks for this man!

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Hey guys, so it looks like we cant just replace the bushings in the diff support arms? We need to replace the entire arms?

52380-60040	SUPPORT ASSY, DIFFERENTIAL	Rear DS arm & bushing
52380-60030	SUPPORT ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL	Rear PS arm & bushing

Mine do not look too bad. To be honest the diff bushing itself (41651-60010) doesn't look that bad either, but the diff is out so I am going to do it.

Whats the opinion on the diff support arms? Worth it? I think I read @2001LC stating that it didnt make a big difference in his experience.

I bought febest bushings. Actually I only replaced the front ones. The rear one I couldn't even loosen to examine and the one that attaches on the side looked like too much trouble without access to my press. Why don't you take a video of your bushing play from drive to reverse and post it. Maybe you don't need to mess with all this.

 

[Roosevelt T]

I bought febest bushings. Actually I only replaced the front ones. The rear one I couldn't even loosen to examine and the one that attaches on the side looked like too much trouble without access to my press. Why don't you take a video of your bushing play from drive to reverse and post it. Maybe you don't need to mess with all this.

I can't, haha:

but the diff is out so I am going to do it.

Truck is in the garage in many pieces. Just checking things off the list I can do more easily now instead of later. I'll do the 41651-60010 bushing regardless since its much easier with the diff out - but wondering about these arms.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Hey guys, so it looks like we cant just replace the bushings in the diff support arms? We need to replace the entire arms?

52380-60040	SUPPORT ASSY, DIFFERENTIAL	Rear DS arm & bushing
52380-60030	SUPPORT ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL	Rear PS arm & bushing

Mine do not look too bad. To be honest the diff bushing itself (41651-60010) doesn't look that bad either, but the diff is out so I am going to do it.

Whats the opinion on the diff support arms? Worth it? I think I read @2001LC stating that it didnt make a big difference in his experience.

In my two 100 vehicles, the 040 arm is typically worn and the 030 arm is perfectly fine. I would not replace the 030 arm. I would replace the 040 arm. You can buy just the bushing via Febest, but the long term durability is suspect and it took me a LONG time to get that bushing out. My 12 ton press at home was not nearly strong enough. I had to cut and grind it out. I would buy the 040 arm anytime I need to do that in the future.

 

[Roosevelt T]

In my two 100 vehicles, the 040 arm is typically worn and the 030 arm is perfectly fine. I would not replace the 030 arm. I would replace the 040 arm. You can buy just the bushing via Febest, but the long term durability is suspect and it took me a LONG time to get that bushing out. My 12 ton press at home was not nearly strong enough. I had to cut and grind it out. I would buy the 040 arm anytime I need to do that in the future.

Thanks man.

I have my local machine shop do this stuff for me because I dont have a press and honestly DIY'ing these bushings is always a headache the first time (at least for me, lol). I'd be inclined to try the Febest since I wont be doing the work - are people having issues with durability or is that speculative?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Thanks man.

I have my local machine shop do this stuff for me because I dont have a press and honestly DIY'ing these bushings is always a headache the first time (at least for me, lol). I'd be inclined to try the Febest since I wont be doing the work - are people having issues with durability or is that speculative?

That's based on anecdotes. Search around and you'll find some premature failures. I think they're good aftermarket parts, but I'm not sure any manufacturer will beat Toyota on long term durability on simple bonded rubber items like that.

 

[TLCPNW]

Just finished installing my Trail Tailor Diff Drop and after driving around for a few days I noticed the infamous "Thunk" of the diff moving when accelerating. I verified that it was in fact the diff mount moving which didn't happen before the diff drop install (maybe slightly b4, but nothing like this).

The gap between the top bushing seems to be pretty large (see picture), so I decided to lift up the differential with my jack to see if I could tighten the bolt down any further (originally torqued to what the Trail Tailor directions stated = 137 ft lbs). After tightening it like crazy with my 24" 1/2" breaker bar the bolt snapped. I got crazy lucky and somehow was able to extract the busted top part of the bolt and screwed in the original bolt that was in that location (Trail Tailor's directions have you use the bolt from the back mount for this one and they provide you with a new bolt and nut for the back mount) and tightened it down again, but I keep on hitting this spot that stops the bolt from threading in any further and eliminating some of the gap in the top bushing.

I have a new bolt coming from Partsouq along with a new top bushing (should have replaced to begin with) and some other items, but my question is: do you think I can run a tap (14mm - 1.5mm) to clean out the threads? Is the nut that is welded onto to the support a special captive nut or something like that where a tap would mess with the function of it? I would use the thread restorer tools, but I believe one of the threads might be messed up.

Thoughts?

 

[2001LC]

Use a thread restore tool!

 

[Somebodyelse5]

can anyone confirm how much vertical play there should be in the forward bushing? I have about 3/16 worth of up and down movement I can achieve if I use a jack and lift the diff up.

Planning on picking these parts up tomorrow and having a go at replacing them all.

 

[OwnerCS]

can anyone confirm how much vertical play there should be in the forward bushing? I have about 3/16 worth of up and down movement I can achieve if I use a jack and lift the diff up.

Planning on picking these parts up tomorrow and having a go at replacing them all.

Mine sits tight. Not much play other than what might be from compressing rubber with the bushings.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

can anyone confirm how much vertical play there should be in the forward bushing? I have about 3/16 worth of up and down movement I can achieve if I use a jack and lift the diff up.

Planning on picking these parts up tomorrow and having a go at replacing them all.

That seems about normal. I thought i had play in my bushing because i had a clunk. Replaced the bushing with great effort only to find the new bushing moved the same.
It's a rubber mount, it's supposed to have some movement or else it would be rigidly bolted to the frame.

My clunk ended up being worn axle shafts.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I ordered parts to replace all three bushings, i will repot back... i am convinced my diff is bouncing around...

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Well, I did something really stupid.

Who knows if you can get the front diff cover off without dropping the whole diff?

 

[giacomo]

Well, I did something really stupid.

Who knows if you can get the front diff cover off without dropping the whole diff?
View attachment 2539397

yes, removing the other two supports and moving the front differential back, it is possible even if two bolts are removed with difficulty ...
41108-60010 Cover Front Differential

Giacomo

 

[suprarx7nut]

Well, I did something really stupid.

Who knows if you can get the front diff cover off without dropping the whole diff?
View attachment 2539397

Well you can't just show us the carnage and not tell us how you managed to chip the hard to reach side!

 

[Somebodyelse5]

yes, removing the other two supports and moving the front differential back, it is possible even if two bolts are removed with difficulty ...
41108-60010 Cover Front Differential

Giacomo

That is great news. I'm over hear thinking I need to pull the axles.....

I assume the drive shaft comes off or is there enough space in the slip yoke?

Well you can't just show us the carnage and not tell us how you managed to chip the hard to reach side!

Don't give me an air chisel.... I was working the outer diameter in and had just enough of a slip. Here's a picture of the main "liberated" portion of the fracture. You can see (if you look closely) where the chisel impacted, that may not be the blow that cause it, but it shows that I did in fact hit the cast aluminum with an air chisel. My theme song should be "If you wanna be dumb, you gotta be tough" and also.. I hate cast aluminum.

This is the "lower" surface of the bore, the face that the bushing bottoms out on. (So, orientation relative to the vehicle, this is upside down)

 

[l3n0x]

Ouch. You should’ve worked it from the bottom, not the top. It still sucks and I’m so sorry nightmare material right there.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

I hope it solves your clunk

 

[flintknapper]

It's great to have an Air Chisel (that is how I did mine) BUT you'll want to attack the bushing from the bottom. And BEFORE you do that, remove as much of the core of the bushing as possible.

An 1-5/8" hole saw in a 1/2" drill makes short work of it. Then you can take a SINGLE bevel chisel bit and hammer straight in to deform the metal shell. It will peel right out once that is done. I know this doesn't help you at this point, but for the benefit of others in the future, I offer this method.

Install new Bushing: