ShottsUZJ100 said:
and I thougfht "As the shaft turns" was on a season Hiatus.
Front DC drive shaft vibration: (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter ShottsUZJ100
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and I thougfht "As the shaft turns" was on a season Hiatus.
ShottsUZJ100 said:
If you follow your own new-found knowledge then the solution should be easy.
-B-
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Romer said:
John, I would like to know the answer to this as well.
ShottsUZJ100 said:
You dont know...all 80 are different
Cut off control arm brackets from axle. Rotate axle to get proper pinion angle. Weld brackets back on. Cut axle ends to free up knuckles, rotate knuckles to get best possible caster angle while avoiding interference between tie rod and control arms. A girl could do it. As seen on tv.Rich said:
"As seen on tv. " lol.
Cheers,
Sean
Cheers,
Sean
All I can tell you is my truck looks like hell, but drives like a sports car with no issues. I bolted on the entire 6" kit from Slee, and I abuse the living crap out of the truck now. Not one issue with the lift, at speeds up to and exceeding 85MPH. When I did the lift, I also rebuilt both axles and the rear driveline, so the running gear was new stock spec. The kit performs as advertized.
-Spike
-Spike
- Thread starter
- #148
sleeoffroad said:
Smoooooth at any speed with rear in only.
- Thread starter
- #149
Rich said:Cut off control arm brackets from axle. Rotate axle to get proper pinion angle. Weld brackets back on. Cut axle ends to free up knuckles, rotate knuckles to get best possible caster angle while avoiding interference between tie rod and control arms. A girl could do it. As seen on tv.
Well, we added 1.25" spacers. This took up to 5.5" front lift and JUST under 5" rear. Truck LOOKS fantanstic. The front pinion angle compared to the D/Cshaft is only 1* off. Vibes are not OK. Slee insists things are not that picky. With a 1* error the thing should drive fine. It does not. After a long discussion with Slee, we're stumped as to what the next step should be. Slee can't drive it and I don't have an endless parts supply. I think I will ship it to him and have him FIX IT!
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- Thread starter
- #150
-Spike- said:
Sounds right Spike. Hopefully you can give me a ride at the start of your C-Gap run sunday. Slee's fear is we might be chasing some other issue in my truck. I'm ready to ship it up and be done. (So much for buying another 100 to trail rig out.
)
So let me get this right.
You had OME 850 up front with no weight and got GRRR.
Then went to OME J's with no weight and still got GRRR despite DC shaft up front and new univ joints on the rear.
23" to 25" is the GRRR zone?
You had OME 850 up front with no weight and got GRRR.
Then went to OME J's with no weight and still got GRRR despite DC shaft up front and new univ joints on the rear.
23" to 25" is the GRRR zone?
- Thread starter
- #152
fzj80kidpen said:
Long story, but here's the 3 deals:
850J...vibe's
850J...D/C shaft...worse vibes...though later we foundout it was bad
850J + 20mm trim packs...vibes, though a touch better
Tried this with a stock shaft...grrrrr
850J + 20mm trim packs + 1.25" spacers...vibes (This is 0.5" short of Slee's 6" kit height)
I'd take it down to non-J's and be done but with all the history I'm afraid I might be chasing something else. I've had it!
When you had the rear U Joints replaced, did they balance it. Many rear shaft problems also disapper when you take the front out.
You could try and drive it with the "Good" front shaft and no rear. That might tell us something.
BTW - saying your going to take it to Slee and Have him FIX It sounds like he didn't do it right. We don't want others to get the wrong impression. Slee sent you parts and your mechanic installed them.
You could try and drive it with the "Good" front shaft and no rear. That might tell us something.
BTW - saying your going to take it to Slee and Have him FIX It sounds like he didn't do it right. We don't want others to get the wrong impression. Slee sent you parts and your mechanic installed them.
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Can you take the shaft to a local shop that does dynamic balancing? I know I've said this before, but unsure if you ever did it. I don't know what kind of a balancer Slee has, or if these are ordered from a local shop....but I've seen as many driveshafts as not from 4x4 shops (and dedicated driveline shops) arrive out of balance just enough to create problems on lifted applications. Nothing you describe sounds like angles (those are harmonic and cycle)...it sounds like balance or wear.
I've been in a driveline shop that did everything they could, great customer service, looked at it over and over, sent it to their out of state shop with the best balancer and changed the weights, but just didn't have the equipment. Dynamic balance one time, with the same old u-joints that had suffered thousands of miles of vibes, and my entire driving life changed (this was also on a DC shaft). On lifted applications, that little bit of tolerance makes a real difference. Tube diameter and thickness makes a difference as you lift (the whole thing could be flexing for all we know if this is stock thickness material). Take the thing to a shop that specializes in nothing but driveshafts and can dynamically balance. Every city has them.
You just absolutely have to eliminate this variable first, the rest of it is shooting in the dark until you do. This is the easiest thing, will take the least amount of time, and costs practically nothing compared to changing the lift over and over.
Nay
ShottsUZJ100 said:Sounds right Spike. Hopefully you can give me a ride at the start of your C-Gap run sunday. Slee's fear is we might be chasing some other issue in my truck. I'm ready to ship it up and be done. (So much for buying another 100 to trail rig out.
I might get to the meet spot early to get a look at your rig without holding the group up. Not much I can do there, but something might catch my eye, or a test drive might help.
I do my own wrenching, and might be willing to chase your problem down if you're willing to drop the truck off with me in Phoenix for a week or so. This would be cheaper for you then sending it to Christo, and of course you wouldn't have to pay me if I couldn't fix it although all parts would be at your expense. Give that some thought and we'll talk at the meet Sunday.
-Spike
Romer said:
Fwiw, my impression of those statements was that he had nearly given up trying to play middleman between his mechanic there and our advice here. Saw it as a good sign when he mentioned shipping to Slee's .. meant he was fed up with trying to get things solved in such a painfully piecemeal sort of fashion and was finally willing to get the job done right, at a shop most likely able to do it.
I knew myself, and my existing resources well enough at the time I spoke to Christo on the phone, that I could not be talked into trying to take delivery of a box of DIY parts to achieve my ends. I knew darn well I needed not only a capable shop, BUT I needed to be surrounded by the guys most comfortable, and versed in my particular project goals, so if plans changed (and they did a few times), they could roll with it and keep their forward momentum going.
Shotts, it's time to do what you need to do to get the job done right. If that means something as out of the box as shipping the whole 80 to Slee's then I suggest you do it! Quite beating yourself up like this man .. git er done!
TY
- Thread starter
- #157
T Y L E R said:
Very well stated TYLER. I've had it with testing and replacing shafts, measuring angles, pulling things off my 80 and trying them on the LX, blah, blah.
IF I DO ONE MORE THING...it'll be one of two things:
1. Have Spike and ToolsRUs look at it in Phx and see what they come up with.
2. Take the lift off my 80 (3+") and swap it onto the LX...BUT...if it still vibes because the LX has another issue then I'm out more misery and mechanic $$$'s plus I have to re-swap to get the trucks the way they were.
I've had it. I'll meet with Spike Sunday and have him go for a drive. I'll decide then. MEanwhile I do appreciate everyone's ideas. Lastly....it's the front shaft...not the rear. Front only and the thing sucks.
Possible a rash of bad shafts then. More than once I'd driven myself insane trouble shooting a problem because I got a second brand new part with the same exact problem.
Thanks for the clarification Tyler. I am sure thats what John meant. I had just had mulitiple beers with a Lone Star Member in Dallas and wanted to make sure it was not interpreted wrong.
If you have a drive shaft shop there, you can try and have it balanced.
If you have a drive shaft shop there, you can try and have it balanced.
- Thread starter
- #160
These are my fears. I ship the Lexus all the way to Slee to find out it's another bad shaft.
I'll see what these others think when they drive it Sunday.
I'll see what these others think when they drive it Sunday.
