Front Bearing Replacement (1 Viewer)

[dealmaker]

Getting ready to order, and I'm seeing two diff part #'s for what appears to be the same bearing.
Anyone know the diff? Maybe one is Koyo and other is Timken??
Part #9036845087
Part #9008036067

Also, is replacing the cones, washers, etc. usually recommended? This is for a mostly babied rust-free LX.

TIA

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Getting ready to order, and I'm seeing two diff part #'s for what appears to be the same bearing.
Anyone know the diff? Maybe one is Koyo and other is Timken??
Part #9036845087
Part #9008036067

Also, is replacing the cones, washers, etc. usually recommended? This is for a mostly babied rust-free LX.

TIA

I would replace. Mine is babied rust free, and sometimes those cones are stubborn

 

[dealmaker]

I'm getting there, slowly but surely lol.

I did find that a prior mechanic probably used BFH and chisel to separate flange from hub. Is this a big problem for re-use? Similar mark on opposite side of hub...
I'm using Cruiser Outfitters wheel bearing kit so I have new flange gasket.
EDIT: My awesome neighbor had a pneumatic wheel and flattened it out for me.

 

[abuck99]

From the picture- condition of the flange studs, I would consider replacing those.

 

[Malleus]

Getting ready to order, and I'm seeing two diff part #'s for what appears to be the same bearing.
Anyone know the diff? Maybe one is Koyo and other is Timken??
Part #9036845087
Part #9008036067

Also, is replacing the cones, washers, etc. usually recommended? This is for a mostly babied rust-free LX.

TIA

What is the source you're using for part numbers? 90080-36067 is the outer bearing cup and cone, 90080-36098 is the inner cup and cone. AFAIK, Totoya OEM bearings are all Koyo; I can't ever remember getting a Timken bearing from them. Having said that, they are interchangeable, without any performance differences.

The cones are springs and should be replaced if they are removed. Springs relax over time and they are wedged in there for a reason. If they are new (or at least no more than a couple of years old), and you have to remove them, you can reuse them. Just remember that the process of removing them stresses them and if you have to remove them more than a couple of times, I'd recommend replacing them.

The washers are just washers. If they look good, reuse them; I'd personally by more concerned about the nuts than the washers. All nuts should fit onto the bolts (or studs) smoothly and without any shake. If they are tight, and used, there is a possibility they are oval (and trash). If they shake while they are going on, there is not enough thread engagement. Same goes for the lugnuts. The hub nuts are really small and need all the contact they can use to do their job properly.

 

[dealmaker]

What is the source you're using for part numbers? 90080-36067 is the outer bearing cup and cone, 90080-36098 is the inner cup and cone. AFAIK, Totoya OEM bearings are all Koyo; I can't ever remember getting a Timken bearing from them. Having said that, they are interchangeable, without any performance differences.

The cones are springs and should be replaced if they are removed. Springs relax over time and they are wedged in there for a reason. If they are new (or at least no more than a couple of years old), and you have to remove them, you can reuse them. Just remember that the process of removing them stresses them and if you have to remove them more than a couple of times, I'd recommend replacing them.

The washers are just washers. If they look good, reuse them; I'd personally by more concerned about the nuts than the washers. All nuts should fit onto the bolts (or studs) smoothly and without any shake. If they are tight, and used, there is a possibility they are oval (and trash). If they shake while they are going on, there is not enough thread engagement. Same goes for the lugnuts. The hub nuts are really small and need all the contact they can use to do their job properly.

The ...067 number supersedes the ...087 per the Toyota parts online site. Can't recall where I got the ...087 part number, probably an old youtube video. Ordered my parts from Cruiser Outfitters and all is good with the parts I received. Definitely the way to go!

 

[darrenk]

LOCK NUT SOCKET
Found an inexpensive socket on Amazon that got the job done. Crown Automotive part number A692N.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

LOCK NUT SOCKET
Found an inexpensive socket on Amazon that got the job done. Crown Automotive part number A692N.
View attachment 2957076

Shows 2-1/16" yeah? ~52.4mm. Does it fit the 54mm nuts OK?

 

[darrenk]

Shows 2-1/16" yeah? ~52.4mm. Does it fit the 54mm nuts OK?

Tight yes - you need to keep it square. No problem setting my pre-load which required 45 ft-lbs.

 

[GVegasG]

In the middle of changing flange, repacking bearings and replacing brakes. I have all the parts but not planning to change bearings since they are good.
I will change the inner seal (oil seal), claw washer, lock washer and maybe cone washers.
Few questions:
1. Regarding needle or knuckle bearing grease - should I just push the CV axle back and push some grease there by hand? Can I use the same red grease?
2. How to chose the new new C clip, how tight new one should be ?
Open for suggestions or comments, please

 

[2001LC]

Pushing grease into back of bearing & bushing, by slightly pushing FDS (CV) axle through, is not very effective. It just to hard to get to, even to just the axle brass bushing, much less the needle bearing. Pushing through from front is much more effective. Some make a tool from a PCV cap and grease zerk. You'll find examples of in mud.

Personally I remove knuckle, during first wheel bearing service. Than clean, inspect (replace if needed) and lube axle bearing & bushing.
Subsequent wheel bearing services:
I use a Slee spindle tool to grease axle bearings and bushings. I just use Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease. (FSM calls for #1 white lithium soap base grease IIRC)

 

[GVegasG]

Pushing grease into back of bearing & bushing, by slightly pushing FDS (CV) axle through, is not very effective. It just to hard to get to, even to just the axle brass bushing, much less the needle bearing. Pushing through from front is much more effective. Some make a tool from a PCV cap and grease zerk. You'll find examples of in mud.

Personally I remove knuckle, during first wheel bearing service. Than clean, inspect (replace if needed) and lube axle bearing & bushing.
Subsequent wheel bearing services:
I use a Slee spindle tool to grease axle bearings and bushings. I just use Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease. (FSM calls for #1 white lithium soap base grease IIRC)
View attachment 3086588


View attachment 3086592

View attachment 3086594

Could buy NLGI 1 but don’t think it is needed.
Any preference between these two

Pushing grease into back of bearing & bushing, by slightly pushing FDS (CV) axle through, is not very effective. It just to hard to get to, even to just the axle brass bushing, much less the needle bearing. Pushing through from front is much more effective. Some make a tool from a PCV cap and grease zerk. You'll find examples of in mud.

Personally I remove knuckle, during first wheel bearing service. Than clean, inspect (replace if needed) and lube axle bearing & bushing.
Subsequent wheel bearing services:
I use a Slee spindle tool to grease axle bearings and bushings. I just use Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease. (FSM calls for #1 white lithium soap base grease IIRC)
View attachment 3086588


View attachment 3086592

View attachment 3086594

Thanks. Any preference between these two?

 

[DBULL]

Does anyone know how deep the socket needs to be.I have a 2 1/8” in my toolbox but it is only 1 1/2” deep.
Never mind…I just ordered a 54mm from Summit…

 

[2003lx470]

My 2007 LX470 has 87K miles, and thinking of replacing the wheel bearings. I was not thinking of replacing the rotors. I need to know, would you replace the rotors or just the bearings?

Your thoughts and advice, please.

 

[GVegasG]

My 2007 LX470 has 87K miles, and thinking of replacing the wheel bearings. I was not thinking of replacing the rotors. I need to know, would you replace the rotors or just the bearings?

Your thoughts and advice, please.

Are you going to change the brake pads?
If yes, it is recommended to turn if thickness will allow it. Otherwise you could replace rotors.

 

[Bisho]

In the middle of changing flange, repacking bearings and replacing brakes. I have all the parts but not planning to change bearings since they are good.
I will change the inner seal (oil seal), claw washer, lock washer and maybe cone washers.
Few questions:
1. Regarding needle or knuckle bearing grease - should I just push the CV axle back and push some grease there by hand? Can I use the same red grease?
2. How to chose the new new C clip, how tight new one should be ?
Open for suggestions or comments, please

View attachment 3086137

The Slee tool is pretty fancy. You can make your own for about $4. This works really well.

 

[uHu]

My 2007 LX470 has 87K miles, and thinking of replacing the wheel bearings. ...

Why would you change the bearings? Have they overheated because of lack of maintenance?
The front wheel bearings of the 100 last very long. Often longer than the life of the car. Regular lubrication, adjustment and cleaning is all they require. Conical quality bearings are not at all like the more standard wheel bearings used on most cars, which would need regular replacement.

 

[BullElk]

^^^^ zackly

 

[2001LC]

Inspection is key!

With wheel bearings and rotors, inspection is deciding factor. Once bearing and races cleaned, they can be inspected.

Rotors depend on thickness. Which new are 32 mm thick. Factory limit is 30 mm, which we like to see more than 30 mm thick after machine tuning.

If considering upgrading rotors. During wheel bearing service, is the best time to do so.

 

[GVegasG]

The Slee tool is pretty fancy. You can make your own for about $4. This works really well.

Yep, that is exactly what I did. Worked pretty well. Thanks.