Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (7 Viewers)

[sam74]

I don't agree with the 2-3 hour per side estimate unless you've done this several times. Just cleaning out the old grease and cleaning up everything can take that long.

FYI the kit you purchased contains a couple of extra gaskets that are not used unless you have locking hubs.

View attachment 2775029

Wow, thanks,

I had those left over when I did mine 3 or 4 years ago and never spent the time to figure out why they were left over.

I agree the cleaning is time consuming if doing everything by hand. I think I heard/read that having an automated parts cleaner was a real time saver.

Maybe if you have a mom and pop shop nearby they would charge a small fee to clean things up if they have a parts cleaner. Other than that I needed a hand getting some sort of clip/ring inserted back into the axles groove I did things myself but also as a newbie it took me several days after work and weekends looking at videos and posts here but a lot of that was trying to get things like the birfs clean using over the counter degreasers. I guess using/soaking in gas or diesel would have been quicker but I didn't go that route.

 

[Rdeschain]

Any tips on disconnecting the steering arms? I have been trying for a while with a three-prong puller, no luck.

 

[lp2k]

Use a pitman arm puller. Looks like a big U and has a forcing bolt you tighten down which pushes it up and out. Yes there will be a loud BANG when it pops free

 

[Rdeschain]

Yep, @lp2k that's what I was using. Finally got them to pop. Just had to configure the puller arms to have less of an angle and use the larger surface area ends. Time for a beer break and then the home stretch.

 

[ajax1]

Tech tip, when popping the tierod out if they are being tough put a bunch pressure on the tierod with the tool then smack the arm with a brass hammer, they will pop right out

 

[Rdeschain]

Welp...that was a bit of a disaster. 13 hours, one side. Trouble disconnecting steering arm, and LOTS of trouble seating new seals evenly. Managed to snap two bolts while torquing down the FSM spec: 1 of the four that connects the steering arm to the knuckle, and 1 of the small bolt that holds the seal retainer over the seals behind the knuckle.

 

[lp2k]

Welp...that was a bit of a disaster. 13 hours, one side. Trouble disconnecting steering arm, and LOTS of trouble seating new seals evenly. Managed to snap two bolts while torquing down the FSM spec: 1 of the four that connects the steering arm to the knuckle, and 1 of the small bolt that holds the seal retainer over the seals behind the knuckle.

This is going to be a common theme as the trucks begin to show their age and those that have use. I’ve made it a habit to not only replace parts but NOT re use any fasteners, bolts, nuts as I’ve snapped my own fair share of 27 year old nuts and bolts. Some new tips for 2021-2022 owners:

• 
  get used to and prepare / train yourself on bolt extractions
• Before attempting a job, consider getting the part number for the bolts your touching and pick them up.

 

[Rdeschain]

This is going to be a common theme as the trucks begin to show their age and those that have use. I’ve made it a habit to not only replace parts but NOT re use any fasteners, bolts, nuts as I’ve snapped my own fair share of 27 year old nuts and bolts. Some new tips for 2021-2022 owners:

• 
  get used to and prepare / train yourself on bolt extractions
• Before attempting a job, consider getting the part number for the bolts your touching and pick them up.

That's good advice. As this is a daily driver, I will likely have a shop extract/replace the bolts versus me trying to learn a new thing to fix the new thing I messed up, lol. Thoughts on whether it's safe to drive a couple miles to a shop on three bolts in the steering arm, or should I have it towed?

 

[lp2k]

It will get you there but I’d have the replacement in hand to give the shop, doubt they would call n wait for Toyota to bring it

 

[BlackMud]

Great info here, thanks to all that shared the knowledge.

Quick question, what is the oem cotter pin size used on the lower knuckle studs?

 

[cruiserdan]

Great info here, thanks to all that shared the knowledge.

Quick question, what is the oem cotter pin size used on the lower knuckle studs?

OEM 80 Series knuckle studs are not drilled for cotter pins.

 

[BlackMud]

OEM 80 Series knuckle studs are not drilled for cotter pins.

Hey @cruiserdan,

My mistake, I meant to say the cotter pin size for the steering arms studs.

Thanks for the info.

 

[cruiserdan]

Hey @cruiserdan,

My mistake, I meant to say the cotter pin size for the steering arms studs.

Thanks for the info.

I suspect you mean tie rod ends. If so the part number is 90252-03005. Diameter is 3mm.

 

[BlackMud]

I suspect you mean tie rod ends. If so the part number is 90252-03005. Diameter is 3mm.

Well, I guess so. Need to keep researching more to ask the right questions. Here is an image of the cotter pin that i'm talking about:

Also, thanks for sending the part number and diameter size. Much appreciated

 

[cruiserdan]

Yes, tie rod ends.

 

[BlackMud]

Well, I guess so. Need to keep researching more to ask the right questions. Here is an image of the cotter pin that i'm talking about:

View attachment 2795685

Yes, tie rod ends.

Alright. Will order those. Thanks again!

 

[Rdeschain]

Alright. Will order those. Thanks again!

Very wise to have new ones on hand. I didn't and was fortunate to be able to extract the old ones without any damage, clean them up and reuse them as they were in good shape. But this was all happening at about 8:00 p.m. and I needed to use the vehicle the next day, so I was kind of sweating it, to lol.

 

[Ofcrtj]

Question and Confessions

Confession: When I bought my 1997 80 series in 2014 I did the axle rebuild myself. It was the first thing I had ever done on the truck, and knowing it would be a project vehicle wanted to do the work myself. It was a very rushed job and I’m sure I cut some corners, although I don’t remember.

Fast forward to today a simple brake job has now led to new seals, bearings and gaskets and that’s just for the hub. The brake job parts list is much longer…

Questions: What could I have messed up the first time to cause this hub to wear on just the edges?

I have started cleaned up the other side but they were both worn in the same fashion.

I have learned a lot over the years of messing with this land cruiser and don’t want to make the same mistakes I made last time trying to be cheap and fast. Thanks in advance.

 

[ppc]

There are rubber seals that "wipe" the shinny areas. They don't look significantly worn. Proper repair would be to coat the rubber seals and hub with a small amount of grease.

 

[Ofcrtj]

There are rubber seals that "wipe" the shinny areas. They don't look significantly worn. Proper repair would be to coat the rubber seals and hub with a small amount of grease.

Thanks for the tip