I know this is a petty suggestion, but the final icing on my bird job was installing the brand new dust caps available at the dealer for a few bucks. Good luck
Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Romer
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tractorpole
SILVER Star
I agree with new dust caps, add drive plates mine were in pretty bad shape.
and the obvious 12 cans of brake cleaner, at least a box of gloves, two boxes of shop towels and cardboard to put under it so you don't stain the driveway... (not that I know from experience or anything)
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
I was able to assemble and fire up my parts washer. As you can imagine, it’s pretty nasty and has caked on grease. How long can I leave the knuckle parts in the parts washer? Is overnight okay? I have almost all of the knuckle soaking
Thanks y’all
Thanks y’all
You can leave them in there for a year or two.
Depending on what parts washer fluid you use, the pump on your new HF parts washer is good for about 2 weeks with the good fluid. I use the Crown PSC fluid in 5 Gal from Tractor Supply. I ended up buying a new $100 pump and installed it after about two weeks. It's hard to find a good pump that will last. My new pump has now lasted 6 years.
Also buy a parts washer brush and the heavy duty long rubber gloves made for chemical use.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Any tips on how to pop the upper bearing?
1) remove the two bolts from the cap.
2) use a large pin punch and hammer to drive the pin out the top. In through the bottom hole.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Hey y’all so quick question, I am on the other side of rebuilding my axle and I noticed the birfield having some gouges the previous owner left behind for me.
Seeing this, should I consider replacing? There is a swirl mark on the flat spot as well. It took 4 days of soaking and scrubbing to get all of the caked on grease and dirt off the knuckle. Going from pic 2 to finally pic 3
Seeing this, should I consider replacing? There is a swirl mark on the flat spot as well. It took 4 days of soaking and scrubbing to get all of the caked on grease and dirt off the knuckle. Going from pic 2 to finally pic 3
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
If it were me, I'd try to clean up the face of the knuckle, too. It really should be flat.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
agree @Malleus , used a brass wire wheel and brake cleaner to remove the 2 decades of neglect. It took 4 days of soaking, which included draining and replacing the solution bath each day in the parts washer with a liberal scrub with the brass brush after soaking and rinsing.
This was day 5 where I was able to touch the bare metal without getting grease on my hands.
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Nice work. My knuckles were in bad shape as well. Fortunately the outer axle seal was good so no diff fluid leaks, but the previous owner had someone service them years back and looks like they did a half-ass job. Knuckle was full of a mix of red grease, moly, and probably some whole milk. It took a couple days of cleaning (no parts washer). I got down to bare metal and sprayed the knuckles with some industrial enamel. The knuckle balls themselves were pitted so I wire wheeled them, JB welded them, sanded that smooth and then put a layer of enamel on them. A lot of work but worth it.
Lower trunnion bearings were a mess with rust. Good thing I got that cruiser outfitters rebuild kit 3 years ago and just got enough time/determination to tackle it all.
I think I had 4 of the wiper plate bolts snap. That was after penetrating oil soak for a day and a little heat followed by tighten, then loosen, tighten a little, then loose. The bolts broke like cheese. I had to left hand drill bit them out and clean out the threads with a new tap. I bungled one of them (top bolt on one side) so the replacement bolt is not fully tightened but is applying enough pressure to hold in conjunction with the other 5 that are snug. Rust is the devil.
One thing I did was use naval jelly on the studs and all hardware. I then made sure the mounting surfaces were clean of any rust and flat. 1000 miles later, all good still.
Lower trunnion bearings were a mess with rust. Good thing I got that cruiser outfitters rebuild kit 3 years ago and just got enough time/determination to tackle it all.
I think I had 4 of the wiper plate bolts snap. That was after penetrating oil soak for a day and a little heat followed by tighten, then loosen, tighten a little, then loose. The bolts broke like cheese. I had to left hand drill bit them out and clean out the threads with a new tap. I bungled one of them (top bolt on one side) so the replacement bolt is not fully tightened but is applying enough pressure to hold in conjunction with the other 5 that are snug. Rust is the devil.
One thing I did was use naval jelly on the studs and all hardware. I then made sure the mounting surfaces were clean of any rust and flat. 1000 miles later, all good still.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Does anyone know why there is an orange film inside the axle when your doing a rebuild ? Was this some protection coating ? It was a bright orange but I sprayed it with brake cleaner and most of it came off. @cruiserdan ?
Looks like rust to me.
I wouldn't expect to see any orange in there.
icorradoi
SILVER Star
Kinda looks like orange FIPG. Maybe they put some around the axle seal when they installed it last?
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Agree I have to do the other side. I’ll certainly take photos as it was a VERY even coating, def not rust. It’s almost like a protective coating. my truck only has 151k miles, no service ever done other than oil changes. Original brakes etc
This is one of the best threads I have seen so far on IH8. @cruiserdan if you were still selling the kit, it would make our lives so much easier but I understand that it is time to rest.
Question, I'm curoius to know if the Redline CV joint grease would work on the birfield + bearings packing task instead of the lithium base grease, even though the lithium stuff is the oem recommended. Is that a bad idea? Also, what is Mr. T reccomended lubricants aka grease types recommended for the parts that receive grease on this job?
Question, I'm curoius to know if the Redline CV joint grease would work on the birfield + bearings packing task instead of the lithium base grease, even though the lithium stuff is the oem recommended. Is that a bad idea? Also, what is Mr. T reccomended lubricants aka grease types recommended for the parts that receive grease on this job?
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Dilspec
SILVER Star
I am not a petroleum engineer or chemist. Use what the FSM states.
The fsm is almost 25+ years old. Lubricant companies have developed new compounds since then and it seems that the CV2 grease would work perfectly on the birfield as they are also a metal joint. My question is more related to the lithium compound that the fsm states.
Companies like Mobil have developed new non-soap based lubricant that uses new substances instead of lithium.
Mobil Centaur™ Moly 2| Mobil Delvac™ Grease
Learn how Mobil Centaur™ Moly 2 grease can help stop corrosion and enhance load-carrying capabilities for heavy-duty trucks and mining and construction equipment.
www.mobil.com
I'm curious to see if someone has found other lubricants that have endured some beating. I'm still thinking about using the CV2 grease and red wheel bearing grease on the bearings.
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