Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Romer
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Yes, any projections, smooth them down. No need for worrying over filling the pits, assuming you didn't go all King Kong on it.
Thanks, knocked down the high spots and seated the bearing race.
I have another question and I’ve searched quite a bit for the answer: what is the order of gasket, dust shield, and dust seal that go on the spindle? When I removed mine it was gasket, dust shield, dust seal. The parts diagram from cruiser outfitters shows dust shield, gasket, dust seal. I found no specific mention of the order on the first page. I just want to verify that the parts diagram is correct and that my truck was assembled incorrectly by someone previously.
Thanks
I have another question and I’ve searched quite a bit for the answer: what is the order of gasket, dust shield, and dust seal that go on the spindle? When I removed mine it was gasket, dust shield, dust seal. The parts diagram from cruiser outfitters shows dust shield, gasket, dust seal. I found no specific mention of the order on the first page. I just want to verify that the parts diagram is correct and that my truck was assembled incorrectly by someone previously.
Thanks
Buy one of these for the next time, very handy and good wall art: 80 Series Front Axle Reference Poster- 18"x27", Version 2
The info you have from @cruiseroutfit is correct. Dust cover, gasket, dust seal.
The info you have from @cruiseroutfit is correct. Dust cover, gasket, dust seal.
Some of the gaskets are shiny on one side and paper like on the other. I’m wondering which way they are supposed to go or if it matters?
Dont feel like the Lone Ranger. I have the exact same thing.
Exact same thing over here. I spun the axle free. At tear down I had a disintegrated inner wheel bearing as well. Did you do what you could with Emory paper and ride it out? Don't see what else you could really do.
Soo, anyone know what these little guys are for (two gaskets)? They’re the only thing left from my rebuild kit and I have no clue where they go. I’m hoping they are for another year/trim/model?
2fpower
SILVER Star
That is not for your 80. That is for cars with part time hubs. The kit you bought is for several different toyota landcruiser series rigs.
Awesome. That was my hope/thought.
First timer here. I blame the TX heat but I realized the rubber between the spacer ring and felt I installed ridge toward the knuckle just now.... opposite. I got the housing bearings and spindle on. Should I keep on going or is that catastrophic? I'm hoping that it will flex and work just fine. Let me know your thoughts, thanks!
ugh sorry for that empty post. So I'm wrapping up the axles and I'm down to putting the rotor and hub on the spindle. Does everyone have such a hard time getting the damn thing to seat? The spindle I'm working with is really trash but I sanded it down and it should seat. Gave up on this one and buying a new spindle. @IdahoDoug said in the write up it can be tough but geesh. Didnt have time to get the other spindle and try the other side, but checking the fit of the bearing around it while off the truck looks to be just as tight. Any ideas on how to hammer it on would be righteous.
Man. I have. nothing constructive but sure am curious to know what you decided.
Hey Tom without any feedback I just kept on trucking and left it as is. I'll get it right on the other side and will have an experiment. Definite learning curve here with all the components involved. As far as getting it all seated, I had to use a 2 foot cheater and tighten the snot out of the jam nut before backing off. Otherwise my "fish scale" reading was very high. All the best!
Good to know thanks for the update. Your experimentg will be interesting. post back after a 1000 with some pics. Also thanks for your rotor seating info. After I couldn't get it on with my large arm muscles I thought I'd use the nut to just index it on the spindle race shaft thing. Wouldn't have thought about driving the whole thing on with just the nut. Threads are dainty as well as the depth of the nut. So I'll press pound press and cuss it on. Thanks bud.
I'll report back my less than scientific findings...
If you do manage to get it all seated with man power alone, we're going to have u tested for performance enhancers. In my case I was well over the FSM's suggested 43 ft-lbs... may have went too grease happy. But hey it's only precision machined, expensive replacement parts so what's the worst that can happen?
If you do manage to get it all seated with man power alone, we're going to have u tested for performance enhancers. In my case I was well over the FSM's suggested 43 ft-lbs... may have went too grease happy. But hey it's only precision machined, expensive replacement parts so what's the worst that can happen?
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New grease, seals, etc, make for higher drag, one of the reasons I don't see that method being accurate, too many variables. Went to the torque it to a number preload, much more consistent, depending on use, tires, etc, somewhere between 25 and 35ftlb has worked well.
Closer to figuring out what is going on with my rotor/hub/inner bearings not seating on the spindle. Im telling you I dont see how I could pound the assembly on with it's new bearings. I have an old inner bearing left so I decided to try and fit it on the spindle. No problem. By hand it slid right on. So these new bearings aren't playing nice with my old spindles. New and old bearings are both Koyo. Both have the same numbers stamped. Old Koyo has a black cage and does look a little different. So no sweat, Ill use my old bearings. However I blew one of the older ones so I only have one. Yall think its a bearing firment issue or my old spindles expanding from heat or something?
in addition to above post, like it makes a difference, here is the new and old Koyos. Black cage fits (old).
