Looks great man! Came out really good. Can't wait to get some paint on mine after a year and a half.
Builds FlatRok40 build (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter jefishing
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- #142
Thanks guys, the beige color turned out really good.
The seat was out of a mini van I just cut it down and welded it back together so I could keep the factory seat belt supports. Had a guy cover it in boat seat material.
The height to the frame rail is 25 3/4" a little taller than I was shooting for but the AAL's are new so I think it will settle some. It seems really tall to me but we will see, I can always remove the AAL's if needed. The stance is awesome the 2.5 backspaced rims are well worth the wait to get made.
The emblem was just freshened up had the wife paint the letters then I taped it up and sprayed some flat black on it. All of the hardware that goes back on is all flat black.
That wider stance will (IMO) make a world of difference as far as stability in off camber situations. That was a BIG PART of the reason I WANTED to do the 60 series axles. I also have 2.5 in BS rims.
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- #144
Measured for some shocks last night and diveshaft lengths. I flexed it out with a engine hoist and a strap around the tire. I have never measured for shocks before and just want to get the right the first time. The measurements I came up with are.
Front compressed 20" and Extended 29" (14" bilsteins from what I found are 20compressed and 35 ext) so I should be good with those numbers. I will not install ford towers till shocks are here.
Rear compressed 20" Extended 24" ( 12" bilsteins are 17.9 compressed and 29 Ext)
I still need to make bump stops. I have them figured in with those numbers. Any more compressed and I hit fender. Here are some pics. Take a look and see if I went about it right. Poser flex shots
Front compressed 20" and Extended 29" (14" bilsteins from what I found are 20compressed and 35 ext) so I should be good with those numbers. I will not install ford towers till shocks are here.
Rear compressed 20" Extended 24" ( 12" bilsteins are 17.9 compressed and 29 Ext)
I still need to make bump stops. I have them figured in with those numbers. Any more compressed and I hit fender. Here are some pics. Take a look and see if I went about it right. Poser flex shots
Those numbers sound perfect, provided you build your bump...as you said... for the compressed dimension just for safety.
Looks BAD ASS man!
Super excited for you! Hoping Im not too far behind ya.
Looks BAD ASS man!
Super excited for you! Hoping Im not too far behind ya.
EWheeler
GOLD Star
This thing is coming together nicely. Good work on the paint job, it looks great! Can't wait so see some pics of this thing on the trail and you behind the wheel with a huge smile. Nothing better than enjoying the fruits of your labor!
Out of curiosity, how did you measure without the shock towers on? Or did you clamp em on???
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- #148
I clamped them on. I am getting my fuel tank worked on tomorrow to have a elbow placed in the tank for my return line. Is there a better place to put the elbow. Ideally I would like to put it on the same half as the outlet just forward off it. That way I do not have to worry about running the line across the tank and over the seat cradle. I would like to run the return line through the same hole as the outlet line. will I have to worry about the return fuel dumping in by the outlet? I am having him braze a 4" tube on the bottom so the fuel is somewhat controlled dumping in. Does that make sense. I have not pic to show.
Nice looking rig. One of my biggest debates so far is whether I am going to paint or rattle can my 40. I just know it's gonna get scratched and dented and have "Nevada Pinstriping" (from all the sagebrush, trees and rocks) and want to be able to touch it up easily. What was your deciding factor?
Rattle can special can look good if you take your time. There is an episode of xtreme 4x4 where they go over it and show you hqw to make it look good. I think it is the budget buggy 3 or 4 episode.
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- #151
I am sure rattle can paint jobs can turn out good but wanted something better for this. Granted it is going to be a wheeler but still want it to look nice especially since I sanded this dam thing for days and spent every waking moment working on or reading how to work on this. The Limco single stage paint was only 90.00 a gal and there is a ton left over. I plan on doing the hard top over the winter. The paint looks way better in pics there is alot of flaws in the body work which is fine. I will not be pissed when I scratch it the first time. I have always like the beige and it was the orginal color of this one. To me the beige screams landcruiser granted the only thing FJ40 is the body. Thanks for the good replys.
Dude.... I was debating the same thing, but a gal. Of single stage paint is so cheap, and quick to spray with a HF gun. You can get a good coat in no time at all vs. Wearing your finger out. The upside of the rattle can is the easy touch up later. But think about spray painting a whole rig for 2 or 3 coats...
- Thread starter
- #153
Not a bad day in the shop steering box mounted up and colum is in for the test fit. So another day and the steering will be done. Fuel tank will be done monday and ordered all the wiring today and gauges. So hopefull start on that in a week or so. I wanted to have all the big stuff done before I started on the wiring cause I have a feeling it's going to kill me, so atleast the wife can sell it mostly done. The Jim Dickey gauge panel showed up today and is awesome
. I got it in powder coat black.
. I got it in powder coat black.- Thread starter
- #154
Been working my ass in the shop and things are moving slowly it seems like. I have had a bad time with parts lately. I keep ordering the wrong stuff but I guess that is how you learn, it has been 3 different steering joints and a new radiator. Not bad just have to wait 4 days till the right stuff shows up. The colum mount turned out good, scrap metal tech tube for the cage fits a 1 3/4 ididit colum nicely. The shocks are on and don't seem to hinder the articulation any. The radiator mount I did like Chicago looked simple and functional. I welded the tops of the square tube shut with nuts on the inside so the bolts just thread right in works pretty slick. The gauge cluster is in for mock up and the dash is set up how it will be just need a couple different things to put in but I like the clean look I do not need to drill any more holes.
I feel that for dam near 600 bones you should get a bigger box and a stripper should pop out and do a dance then disappear. Howel can really pack there stuff
I feel that for dam near 600 bones you should get a bigger box and a stripper should pop out and do a dance then disappear. Howel can really pack there stuff
- Thread starter
- #155
For those of you who don't need emsision stuff what do you do with the smog pump. I took mine off and now wondering how hard will it be to find a belt? Could I run the pump just not hook it up? Can I do somthing cool like make a compressor out of it?
What year 350 are you running? I can get you a part number that will get you real close, you may have to buy a couple different lengths and take back what you don't use.
Seems like I've seen compressors made out of smog pumps, but don't remember where.
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- #157
That wuold be great if you could find a close number. Napa has really gone down hill here unless you have a vin the pretty much blow you off and the others where already that way. What happen to parts departments you pretty much need a number if you want anything. I am running a 305 out of a 88 chevy truck. The truck was plain no air or smog pump now. I have done some research and unable to find anything about smog to compressor. Which is fine. Thanks again
It should be just one belt for all the accessories. So for an '88 with a 305, no air, no smog, the Napa # is 25-040882 (Gates # K040882). That is 4 groove belt that measure 88.75" on the outside. That should get you close.
The problem these days is that amount of changes in a 1-3 year period for any given vehicle. Used to be that the same part fit that body style (76-87...88-99). It's definately not as easy to look up parts compared to ten or fifteen years ago. Plus you get kids behind the counter who just don't know and don't care to know.
http://www.ondemand5direct.com/app/...74842&Ill=71686&Fig=4&Ill=71686&Fig=4&IMODE=D
The problem these days is that amount of changes in a 1-3 year period for any given vehicle. Used to be that the same part fit that body style (76-87...88-99). It's definately not as easy to look up parts compared to ten or fifteen years ago. Plus you get kids behind the counter who just don't know and don't care to know.
http://www.ondemand5direct.com/app/...74842&Ill=71686&Fig=4&Ill=71686&Fig=4&IMODE=D
I replaced mine with a second alternator. plan on using it to charge a second battery to run winch, compressor and maybe something else.
- Thread starter
- #160
Thanks a ton for the info will go try it on wednesday. I roughly measured the belt and I came up with 87ish so that should work great.
Okay I have one last thing to make for this. I need to find a place for the battery. I have over looked this apperantly. I have no idea where I should mount it and where to begin. I am keeping the blower motor. I am more brain dead than usual and getting tunnel vison. Any pics or ideas, in need of some serious help. Thanks gents
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