Builds FlatRok40 build (8 Viewers)

[chicago]

No personal experience, but from what Ive heard, the PBR's hold up better longevity wise. However, that MAY be only related to the radials.
I REALLY LIKE the Iroks though. Look bad ass and all ive heard, they ROCK off road.

Im looking at em in the 37 in variety as well as the interco MTR's

 

[jefishing]

Still in the big tire debate but came across this site and was by far the cheapest place to but BFG's,Toyos, and Goodyears. You can even get discount coupons. Treaddepot.com the local tire dealer told me that is where he gets his toyo's and then marks them up (hell of a nice guy). Thought I would pass it on. Still thinking the pit bull's but the toyo's came close and the BFG KM2's are still in the running. Who new picking tires would suck so bad?

 

[jefishing]

I ordered a set of 37x12.5x17 radial rockers and now I have to get some rims. I plan on going with the pro Comp black steel wheels. I have done some research and plan on going with the 2.5 backspacing instead of the 3.5. from what I understand I will not have to run spacers and should have better turn radius and should limilt tire rub on inner fender. Is this correct? I really don't want to run spacers. I could have summit make some special rims with 2 but would rather stay with 2.5. Any thoughts need to oreder today they say 4-8 weeks.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I run 2.5" backspacing on my 60. Gives you a little bit more width, eliminates the need to run spacers and gives you better clearance to the frame / springs with large tires.

 

[Slowerthanu]

Looks real good so far. I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of 37 inch IROK's. My buddy runs them on his Wrangler and absolutely loves them.

That should make for a fun rig when you get it all buttoned up.

 

[jefishing]

Thanks for the posts. I ordered a set of prom comp soft 8 looking wheels 17x9 with 2.5 backspacing. Hopefully they really don't take 8 weeks. Hope to have this thing started and driving by then (really doubt that will happen). Hopefully have all the brake lines done today and parking brakek too. Never had a parking brake before pretty stoked about that. If anybody is bored I could use a pic of a cable and how it should look being I have no clue. SOR manual works okay but always pays to see a real pic.

 

[jefishing]

A couple question s for you guys. I have a small leak around my clutch cyclinder that i can't seem to stop. So I recut the line and reflared it. The threads seem to be buggered up a bit. Could I go buy a metric tap and run it through there to clean them up or is it a different pitch that normal, same question with the brake lines. Will a metric tap and die set work on the flared lines? Also on my brake booster there is a hose that comes off the side. I asume that it is a vaccum where will this go on my tbi motor? I can't seem to fully bleed the brakes till this is hooked up because when I put my finger on it the pedal will not go to the floor and when I don't the pedal will hit the floor.
Thanks

 

[waiting for time]

A couple question s for you guys. I have a small leak around my clutch cyclinder that i can't seem to stop. So I recut the line and reflared it. The threads seem to be buggered up a bit. Could I go buy a metric tap and run it through there to clean them up or is it a different pitch that normal, same question with the brake lines. Will a metric tap and die set work on the flared lines? Also on my brake booster there is a hose that comes off the side. I asume that it is a vaccum where will this go on my tbi motor? I can't seem to fully bleed the brakes till this is hooked up because when I put my finger on it the pedal will not go to the floor and when I don't the pedal will hit the floor.
Thanks

Don't fool arround with brake lines, just put new fittings on. You do not want to drive out there and lose the brakes or clutch for that mather. Vacuum for brake booster needs to be hooked up to the intake manifold.

 

[jefishing]

I ended up just putting on a new end on and cleaning the clutch master threads a little and it stopped the leak. I have a e-brake finally who knew that would be so exciting. Thanks for the vacuum placement. I will take a look and find out. Now I can stop and shift now if I only had wirring and steering

 

[jefishing]

Got the shifters bent and everything put into place on the tunnel. Should work out good. Sitting in the driver seat I don't have very far to reach. Just need to make a mount for the ebrake cable underneath.

Going to talk to a guy about making some boots. Here are a couple pics of the brake lines. Turns out I have no patience on bending these things

 

[poor boy pulling]

No personal experience, but from what Ive heard, the PBR's hold up better longevity wise. However, that MAY be only related to the radials.
I REALLY LIKE the Iroks though. Look bad ass and all ive heard, they ROCK off road.

Im looking at em in the 37 in variety as well as the interco MTR's

guess it depends on who you talk to, most people i know that have had them wont buy another set because they wear FAST! and the 39.5s are known to blurp air out and loose inner beads. but alot of the yota guys down here run them and love them

 

[jefishing]

Poor boy are talking about the Rockers or the Iroks? I have heard that about the Iroks but not from the Rockers. Anyway doesnt matter now me and the helper made a trip to the shippers dock. Up close and personel these tires are badass. The tread pattern is awesome and all the stuff that is wrote on the sidewall is pretty cool, they even have an american flag on the sidewall really what else do ya need. The lugs are pretty soft so they may wear faster than some. Owell totaly worth it. IMPRESSED

 

[jefishing]

All right guys need some advise. Me and the wife can't decide if I should take all the fender off or leave about 3"s. I like the cruiser look with the fenders but going to need the clearance. I would like to just get some metal tech tube fenders but not in the budget now. The blue tape shows what the fender would be. So what do you guys think?

Here is a pic of the rear. I think that should be enough to clear the tires. They where already trimmed more than I thought.

 

[chicago]

All right guys need some advise. Me and the wife can't decide if I should take all the fender off or leave about 3"s. I like the cruiser look with the fenders but going to need the clearance. I would like to just get some metal tech tube fenders but not in the budget now. The blue tape shows what the fender would be. So what do you guys think?

Here is a pic of the rear. I think that should be enough to clear the tires. They where already trimmed more than I thought.

BEFORE YOU CHOP YOUR FENDERS....
Try and sell em. That could get you 90% of the cost of the MT fenders. Those look to be nice and clean and will be worth s*** if you chop em. If you want the MT fenders, this is a TOTALLY VIABLE option. That is how I financed mine. My original fenders were immaculate, and I sold em for 200 bones, but they were CCOT fenders and not worth as much as a set of clean stockers. Post em up in the for sale section. I can almost guarantee that youll have em sold (providing a fair price) within a couple weeks.
Looks like you might have to chop out some of the leading edge on the rear as well.

 

[jefishing]

Thanks, never even crossed my mind to try and sell. I think I will post them up and see what happens. Did you ever fill in the inner fender wells. I will have to figure something out if I go that route but I would'nt think I would'ne be to hard to put some sheet metal in there. I caved on the painting thing so I will be doing some body work. Already filled in 65 holes what a mess.

 

[chicago]

Not yet...its the last thing Im worried about right now in my build.
I know the feeling on the body work!

 

[FLYINGLOW]

if your gonna do it vote for flush. Chop a rusty pair if your gonna do it though, those look to nice.

 

[jefishing]

Well I have the rear quarters done. Knowledge is definatly power. I spent about 2 days on the rear trying to straighten out good enough that I could live with. This is not going top be a show truck but don't want a big ole hack job either. Finally called in some help and 3 hrs later (after fixing my f ups) there are pretty dam good. Man there is a trick to that body work. Has anybody used the hod rod flatz paint? I really like the flat gray. I think the flat paint would be pretty cool and would'nt show scratches as bad and you could repair the paint pretty easy if needed. Never been into shiny stuff. The front fenders got the saw. After we looked at them they had alot of filler on the front and where not as in as good as shape as I thought. I am glad I did'nt sell them to somebody. I would have felt like crap. So we started taping and thinking of different ways to go about the front and came up with this.

I might have to trim the very front alittle but will wait till tires are on. Was not sure at first but they are growing on me. Never liked to idea of a sharp edge and they might keep some rocks from smacking me in the head.

We basically took 3"s out of the middle and put them back together.

Well whats the consensus Good, Bad, Ugly, won't work worth a S*&T

 

[fjfodee]

Man those fenders turned out great! Nice Job!

 

[chicago]

They look great! Even if they didnt, youre pretty much screwed any way!
Are you gonna raise them UP a bit into the apron?

I feel ya on the body work. IT SUCKS! I HATE sheet metal work. Unfortunately, on these rigs there is a TON of it, even if JUST doing mods. However, its a "do or die" sort of scenario, so you get decent at it or PAY someone. I opt to get decent at it for a 10ft job.