Flasher units… (2 Viewers)

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projectTuRD

projectTuRD

SILVER Star
Joined
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Threads
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Location
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02/69 fj40
My signals are still wonky. I know the grounds are good, all the lights work in some fashion.
I’ve changed the switch to new oem.
One side blinks, the other stays on (with the signal lever).
The hazard switch used to make most of them flash and now it doesn’t. It hummed a couple times and quit.
I only see signal flashers available, is the hazard one the same thing (I haven’t looked for it under the dash)?
Would you buy both and replace them, or one at a time?
 
projectTuRD said:
02/69 fj40
My signals are still wonky. I know the grounds are good, all the lights work in some fashion.
I’ve changed the switch to new oem.
One side blinks, the other stays on (with the signal lever).
The hazard switch used to make most of them flash and now it doesn’t. It hummed a couple times and quit.
I only see signal flashers available, is the hazard one the same thing (I haven’t looked for it under the dash)?
Would you buy both and replace them, or one at a time?
Click to expand...


Do you have 2 separate OEM flashers ?

Should there only be 1 ?

The HAZARD switch circuit switch were optional From day 1

In 1962


You have the round can or square box ?
 
ToyotaMatt said:
Do you have 2 separate OEM flashers ?

Should there only be 1 ?

The HAZARD switch circuit switch were optional From day 1

In 1962


You have the round can or square box ?
Click to expand...
I assume I have two, since that’s what coolerman’s diagram shows. Otherwise I have the cylindrical one.

IMG_8328.jpeg


IMG_8329.jpeg
 
projectTuRD said:
I assume I have two, since that’s what coolerman’s diagram shows. Otherwise I have the cylindrical one.

View attachment 3449194

View attachment 3449196
Click to expand...



i only see 1 ?

where are you seeing a 2nd flasher ?


the square BOX that says hazard flasher in this Diagram is technically a ROUND CAN ...

like u have above ,


like these below ,


- you have a 23W standard


this is a ARCTIC SPEC. Heavy DUTY 27w watt commercial / military one below


works much better if you tow a trailer too ..... :)

- u can either use the included single TAB , or swap to your double tabs mount bracket , flasher cans same size round etc ......fyi





.

vintageteqparts.com

NOS 27W / 12V COLD Climate / Arctic Spec. / Frigid Zone / HEAVY DUTY TYPE Option GENUINE NipponDenso JAPAN OEM TOYOTA Flasher Relay / Can ( B & L ) Terminals 81980-31023 FJ45 FJ55 FJ40 BJ40 - VintageTEqParts.com

- Comes with ALL OEM Mounting Hardware Bolt & Electrical Connector Repair / Restore Plug and Extra Solid Brass Terminals...
vintageteqparts.com


.




1696644256466.png


1696644331757.png

1696644342283.png

1696644353804.png



i simply adore the timeless older polished aluminum oem flasher cans ...........:D


.

1696644471534.png


.


vintageteqparts.com

NOS 27W / 12V COLD Climate / Arctic Spec. / Frigid Zone / HEAVY DUTY TYPE Option GENUINE NipponDenso JAPAN OEM TOYOTA Flasher Relay / Can ( B & L ) Terminals 81980-31023 FJ45 FJ55 FJ40 BJ40 - VintageTEqParts.com

- Comes with ALL OEM Mounting Hardware Bolt & Electrical Connector Repair / Restore Plug and Extra Solid Brass Terminals...
vintageteqparts.com
 
ToyotaMatt said:
i only see 1 ?

where are you seeing a 2nd flasher ?


the square BOX that says hazard flasher in this Diagram is technically a ROUND CAN ...

like u have above ,


like these below ,


- you have a 23W standard


this is a ARCTIC SPEC. Heavy DUTY 27w watt commercial / military one below


works much better if you tow a trailer too ..... :)

- u can either use the included single TAB , or swap to your double tabs mount bracket , flasher cans same size round etc ......fyi





.

vintageteqparts.com

NOS 27W / 12V COLD Climate / Arctic Spec. / Frigid Zone / HEAVY DUTY TYPE Option GENUINE NipponDenso JAPAN OEM TOYOTA Flasher Relay / Can ( B & L ) Terminals 81980-31023 FJ45 FJ55 FJ40 BJ40 - VintageTEqParts.com

- Comes with ALL OEM Mounting Hardware Bolt & Electrical Connector Repair / Restore Plug and Extra Solid Brass Terminals...
vintageteqparts.com


.




View attachment 3449236

View attachment 3449237
View attachment 3449238
View attachment 3449239


i simply adore the timeless older polished aluminum oem flasher cans ...........:D


.

Click to expand...
Thought I was going nuts for a minute. It’s on a different page.

IMG_8335.jpeg
 
projectTuRD said:
If in fact there is only one, that’s great.
Click to expand...


i see both are ONLY 2 wire flashers ....


i have NOT ever seen a add on 2nd one before ?


note the wire colors , BOTH are Green w/ RED tracer , and Green w/ Blue tracer .............


- this is ALL i know on this topic here ,

- perhaps a EXPERT like @3_puppies , can add to this topic ?


- see some NON-USA markets DID NOT have turn signals , so maybe this plays out here ?


- i DO have a ADD ON early HAZARD switch KIT wire sub harness section , but have no knowlege if a 2nd flasher was involved ......

- i DID find this , but ONLY confuses me more ?

.


1696648699697.jpeg
 
Last edited:
royal cake said:
For what it’s worth I have confirmed that this newer OEM replacement works for both my signal and hazard flasher. Mine is a 4/69, not sure if different than your 2/69

www.fjparts.com

68-83 Land Cruiser FJ40 55 Turn Signal Flasher

Turn Signal Flasher 68-9/83 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 And 9/77-7/80 FJ55 OEM
www.fjparts.com

View attachment 3449320

View attachment 3449321
Click to expand...


sure , that is a OEM dealer solution that WILL work in BOTH cases ,,,



but ,


the silver can sparkles much better ... :cool:


.

7142713484435816968_1 - Copy (3)12 - Copy.png
 
Maybe first try checking your bulbs are the right wattage, not blown, and not corroded in the lamp holder.
Any extra resistance in the circuit will cause this.
Patch an extra bulb in parallel and it will probability burst into life - this proves the wiring is good at least
 
Older flasher units rely on resistance from the bulbs. If there is not enough resistance then the flasher will not flash. Loss of resistance can be as simple as a single bad bulb/burned or broken element. Another cause for loss of resistance is not using the proper wattage bulb. Higher wattage bulb has higher resistance, replacing one or more bulbs with lower wattage replacement will look fine but doesn't have enough resistance to allow the flasher to work. A good example of this is switching to LED bulbs in which case a specialized flasher is required to keep things working.

Spotting bulbs that are out is easy. Could be broken element(s) or poor/bad contact with power or ground. If all you bulbs appear to be working then pull them and double check the wattage. Another option is to replace the flasher unit with a newer design that will work with LED lights or standard bulbs.
 
B y r o n said:
Older flasher units rely on resistance from the bulbs. If there is not enough resistance then the flasher will not flash. Loss of resistance can be as simple as a single bad bulb/burned or broken element. Another cause for loss of resistance is not using the proper wattage bulb. Higher wattage bulb has higher resistance, replacing one or more bulbs with lower wattage replacement will look fine but doesn't have enough resistance to allow the flasher to work. A good example of this is switching to LED bulbs in which case a specialized flasher is required to keep things working.

Spotting bulbs that are out is easy. Could be broken element(s) or poor/bad contact with power or ground. If all you bulbs appear to be working then pull them and double check the wattage. Another option is to replace the flasher unit with a newer design that will work with LED lights or standard bulbs.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the intent, and don't mean to undermine the good advice. I'd normally ignore this and not be a pedantic d1ck, but since this contradicts my post, I think it is helpful to correct, sorry. :)

People struggle to understand basic electrical principles, and misinformation doesn't help them in the long run.

Remember:
V = I x R
P = V x I = I x I x R.

Older flasher units rely on resistance of the bulbs. If there is not enough CURRENT then the flasher will not flash. INCREASED resistance can be as simple as a single bad bulb/burned or broken element. Another cause for INCREASED resistance is not using the proper wattage bulb. Higher wattage bulb has LOWER resistance, replacing one or more bulbs with lower wattage replacement will look fine but doesn't have enough CURRENT to allow the flasher to work. A good example of this is switching to LED bulbs in which case a specialized flasher is required to keep things working.

Spotting bulbs that are out is easy. Could be broken element(s) or poor/bad contact with power or ground. If all you bulbs appear to be working then pull them and double check the wattage. Another option is to replace the flasher unit with a newer design that will work with LED lights or standard bulbs.
 
projectTuRD said:
I assume I have two, since that’s what coolerman’s diagram shows.
Click to expand...
I’ve been using Coolerman’s flasher kit for several years w good results. I’d use his over OEM.

Then go to his flasher/relay page. Works w/ LEDs. YRMV…
 
45Dougal said:
I appreciate the intent, and don't mean to undermine the good advice. I'd normally ignore this and not be a pedantic d1ck, but since this contradicts my post, I think it is helpful to correct, sorry. :)

People struggle to understand basic electrical principles, and misinformation doesn't help them in the long run.

Remember:
V = I x R
P = V x I = I x I x R.

Older flasher units rely on resistance of the bulbs. If there is not enough CURRENT then the flasher will not flash. INCREASED resistance can be as simple as a single bad bulb/burned or broken element. Another cause for INCREASED resistance is not using the proper wattage bulb. Higher wattage bulb has LOWER resistance, replacing one or more bulbs with lower wattage replacement will look fine but doesn't have enough CURRENT to allow the flasher to work. A good example of this is switching to LED bulbs in which case a specialized flasher is required to keep things working.

Spotting bulbs that are out is easy. Could be broken element(s) or poor/bad contact with power or ground. If all you bulbs appear to be working then pull them and double check the wattage. Another option is to replace the flasher unit with a newer design that will work with LED lights or standard bulbs.
Click to expand...

As Gibb's would say Never Apologize. I'm not electrical but simply remember that using the wrong wattage bulbs can cause an issue with flashers. So the problem could be bulbs of higher wattage but less resistance. It is a matter of the flasher needing a certain amount of resistance and when it doesn't see it, it doesn't work. That is where newer flashers that work with LED's work no matter the resistance.

When I converted to LED tail lights I know I had to change out my flasher.

DSC02164.JPG


DSC02163.JPG
 
Yea LEDs use a lot less current, so the bimetallic thingy never gets warm enough to switch.
 
All the bulbs work, and have flashed at one point or another. I have no interest in led bulbs on this thing, but I put them in houses all the time 😉
The new rear (oem) taillights came with bulbs but I will check the wattage on the front ones again just because.
I may start with a ‘can’ flasher unit as mine seems to be OG and could be on its last legs.
 
hobbes said:
I’ve been using Coolerman’s flasher kit for several years w good results. I’d use his over OEM.

Then go to his flasher/relay page. Works w/ LEDs. YRMV…
Click to expand...


mr. Hobbs is CORRECT


@Coolerman 's Electrical Product offerings are SIMPLY the BEST options out there , hands down , in many case far better then a shiny aluminum flasher can too ....

- LED ( Light Emitting Diodes ) are here now and here to stay , they are the path to the future in our Vintage TOYOTA land Cruiser Community for ALL the right reasons and ZERO wrong ones ...


- first and fore most the AMPS Draw on 35-45-75 years old original THICK copper strands PVC jacket first generation YAZAKI wires , is like day and night , as in YOUR fundamentally Preserving Your Vintage Electrical SYSTEM components by NOT further degrading them with HIGH AMP draw loads ......


- if your told otherwise by anyone , walk away , there not Enlightened ...


- i have dove deep into the whole Color Temperature LED visual spectrum of LUMENS , and how it can make 50 year old TOYOTA illumination parts designed for old skool incandescent filaments , some times with OEM Color Keyed rubber caps , green , blue , amber etc ....

- i honestly think it's shear fate and blessed lucky stars that TOYOTA put a lot of thought into how to transmit those DIM lumens of yesteryear , and now we can harness that 1960's -1990's ROCKET SCIENCE , and do things like this VERY recent TECH images below .....

- it gets my mind going to push ever harder and dive ever deeper into what was as-is , but now can indeed be my own little Teq real-azz-LED-Reality ........... :D



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Black_body_visible_spectrum.gif


.



download (2).jpg



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DSCN4508.JPG
image_1aa88d83-8ef9-4ea0-adc5-e3cfd93e9110_2048x.jpg

FFB6E87D-6308-46D2-805B-DA02C5D29252.jpeg
 
I install them all day. I understand the benefits. Personally I have no use for them in my truck.
Maybe I’m put off by all the idiots running 5000k+ headlights and such 🤣
 
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