Wondering if you have switched to led blinkers, did you replace the flasher? I'd rather do it that way. I'm wondering if anyone knows if the stock flasher in the pic off my LJ78 is a CF13 or CF14?
Flasher replacement for LED blinkers (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JimmyPrado
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I replaced it on my 60 and my 80 ( from LED Lights, Bulbs & LED Lighting Accessories | Super Bright LEDs no affiliation ) there are few threads about that on the specific section
Key Words: Toyota FZJ80 1997 Land Cruiser Flasher Relay Module LED Lights Replace / Replacing USA (Left Drive)
TL/DR (Jump to **** below if you don't want the drama!!)
Friends - I am not much of a mechanic, and even that may be an understatement, but I can follow instructions!!!!
WHEN THEY ARE RIGHT!!!!
I did a full upgrade to LED lights in my 1997 FZJ80 40th Anniversary Land Cruiser. And ... Yes I did order the
flasher module for LED Turn/Hazard bulbs. Searched high and low for a good guide to replace the Flasher Relay Module.
What I was looking for was where the heck the darn thing was. Good news. I learned how to completely take apart
the entire dashboard and the instrument cluster! (Score,,,) because someone mentioned on the forum that you had to
take the instrument cluster out. So I did. This provided the opportunity to change the cluster Back lighting to LEDs (Yesss!!).
I also took two silver control modules out. (Stupid because the flasher could not have fit in either of them!!!), but finally I
figured it out. and so I will try to impart my findings here onto those mechanically dis-inclined like myself.
****
- Open the Driver side door (instruction for left drive)!!!!!
- Remove the dead pedal. There is 10mm bolt at the base of it.
- On the door sill, Carefully pop up the three plastic pins (Yellow) to lift the door sill. This molded plastic extends al they way
to the firewall on the left of the dead pedal. Carefully slide this part back towards the real of the car. Try not to break the end
tabs like I did. Try not to scratch the car. You "may have to giggle the end of it loose before you pull the part back - I am not sure, since
seem to have damaged it but it did go back together somehow.
- To your left you will see a white plastic molded plate that houses two cubic replays and four round metal modules. See below.
- There ... That is the flasher!!!!
- I think proper instructions are to remove the two bolt/nuts that hold it in. Getting the right one out is bit difficult
so I skipped and did not remove the white part!!! Your call.
- Pull the flasher out. If you don't remove the white plastic the flasher module is behind a thick harness.
As you can kind of see below the flasher plugs into another black molded part. This part along with a U shaped
metal part essentially change the pin configuration!
- Pull the factory flasher out of the base socket which hopefully came out when you pulled the module out. There are
two plastic tabs. You can see one of them right below the number 79007. The module
I purchased, had the foot print of the base socket/adaptor, so I had to discard the base . However you will need the
U shaped metal part. Slide the part off the old flasher and slide it onto your new flasher. See picture below.
- Plug your flasher back in. There are only three slots in the receiver. The top in (where you slid the metal adaptor on)
does not get plugged in. The pin on the bottom does.
- Obviously test that the flasher works (at the lower flashing frequency) before putting things back together.
- Reverse the steps to put the door sill back in. Slide in in and make sure its secure by the firewall. Also make sure it pops
into the edge of the door opening so that the yellow pop-in do-hickeys are aligned with the hole in the door sill.
- Carefully (or they'll flatten) pop the three yellow plastic yellow do-hickeys back in.
- Install the dead pedal
- If this goes well. It should take about 10 to 30 minutes depending on your level of experience. Ya - It took me 30 minutes,
but that pales in comparison to the 3 hours I spent taking the whole dash apart looking for the flasher.
For reference these were the parts I used for the Flasher and Light bulbs from Amazon;. Working and Looking great.
uxcell® Car Vehicle 3 Pin LED Turn Blinker Light Flasher Relay 12V DC 0.02-20A
Quantity: 1
iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super Bright Low Power 1156 1141 1003 BA15S LED Bulbs with Projector replacement for Turn Signal Lights,Amber Yellow
Quantity: 4
TL/DR (Jump to **** below if you don't want the drama!!)
Friends - I am not much of a mechanic, and even that may be an understatement, but I can follow instructions!!!!
WHEN THEY ARE RIGHT!!!!
I did a full upgrade to LED lights in my 1997 FZJ80 40th Anniversary Land Cruiser. And ... Yes I did order the
flasher module for LED Turn/Hazard bulbs. Searched high and low for a good guide to replace the Flasher Relay Module.
What I was looking for was where the heck the darn thing was. Good news. I learned how to completely take apart
the entire dashboard and the instrument cluster! (Score,,,) because someone mentioned on the forum that you had to
take the instrument cluster out. So I did. This provided the opportunity to change the cluster Back lighting to LEDs (Yesss!!).
I also took two silver control modules out. (Stupid because the flasher could not have fit in either of them!!!), but finally I
figured it out. and so I will try to impart my findings here onto those mechanically dis-inclined like myself.
****
- Open the Driver side door (instruction for left drive)!!!!!
- Remove the dead pedal. There is 10mm bolt at the base of it.
- On the door sill, Carefully pop up the three plastic pins (Yellow) to lift the door sill. This molded plastic extends al they way
to the firewall on the left of the dead pedal. Carefully slide this part back towards the real of the car. Try not to break the end
tabs like I did. Try not to scratch the car. You "may have to giggle the end of it loose before you pull the part back - I am not sure, since
seem to have damaged it but it did go back together somehow.
- To your left you will see a white plastic molded plate that houses two cubic replays and four round metal modules. See below.
- There ... That is the flasher!!!!
- I think proper instructions are to remove the two bolt/nuts that hold it in. Getting the right one out is bit difficult
so I skipped and did not remove the white part!!! Your call.
- Pull the flasher out. If you don't remove the white plastic the flasher module is behind a thick harness.
As you can kind of see below the flasher plugs into another black molded part. This part along with a U shaped
metal part essentially change the pin configuration!
- Pull the factory flasher out of the base socket which hopefully came out when you pulled the module out. There are
two plastic tabs. You can see one of them right below the number 79007. The module
I purchased, had the foot print of the base socket/adaptor, so I had to discard the base . However you will need the
U shaped metal part. Slide the part off the old flasher and slide it onto your new flasher. See picture below.
- Plug your flasher back in. There are only three slots in the receiver. The top in (where you slid the metal adaptor on)
does not get plugged in. The pin on the bottom does.
- Obviously test that the flasher works (at the lower flashing frequency) before putting things back together.
- Reverse the steps to put the door sill back in. Slide in in and make sure its secure by the firewall. Also make sure it pops
into the edge of the door opening so that the yellow pop-in do-hickeys are aligned with the hole in the door sill.
- Carefully (or they'll flatten) pop the three yellow plastic yellow do-hickeys back in.
- Install the dead pedal
- If this goes well. It should take about 10 to 30 minutes depending on your level of experience. Ya - It took me 30 minutes,
but that pales in comparison to the 3 hours I spent taking the whole dash apart looking for the flasher.
For reference these were the parts I used for the Flasher and Light bulbs from Amazon;. Working and Looking great.
uxcell® Car Vehicle 3 Pin LED Turn Blinker Light Flasher Relay 12V DC 0.02-20A
Quantity: 1
iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super Bright Low Power 1156 1141 1003 BA15S LED Bulbs with Projector replacement for Turn Signal Lights,Amber Yellow
Quantity: 4
thanks a lot for this write up, made it really easy. i found this thread when ordering the LED bulbs and realized i also needed the relay. installed the bulbs then had the hyper flash, swapped out the relay as outlined above.
basically...THANKS!!
basically...THANKS!!
I am replacing my lights with LED's on my 1997 40th Anniversary Edt. too, and I found your post while searching for info on where the Flasher relay module is located. You gave good, detailed instructions, but I still have a question. Is the flasher relay just supposed to unplug/come out just by pulling on it, or are there any kind of retention clips or anything? I'm no 90 lb weaking, but I have pulled and pulled and wiggled it and pulled some more, and it seems like it doesn't want to simply unplug.
In the pictures you provided, it's obvious that there are plastic retainer clips on the adapter that the original flasher relay plugs into, as well as small tabs on the bottom of the relay, but it's not clear if there are any tabs on the other end of the adapter that would clip into retainer clips on the main board. It's a tight spot in there with all those wires around it and I'm afraid I"m going to break something , and the last thing I need in my life right now is to have to replace that whole plastic relay board part.
In the pictures you provided, it's obvious that there are plastic retainer clips on the adapter that the original flasher relay plugs into, as well as small tabs on the bottom of the relay, but it's not clear if there are any tabs on the other end of the adapter that would clip into retainer clips on the main board. It's a tight spot in there with all those wires around it and I'm afraid I"m going to break something , and the last thing I need in my life right now is to have to replace that whole plastic relay board part.
Key Words: Toyota FZJ80 1997 Land Cruiser Flasher Relay Module LED Lights Replace / Replacing USA (Left Drive)
TL/DR (Jump to **** below if you don't want the drama!!)
Friends - I am not much of a mechanic, and even that may be an understatement, but I can follow instructions!!!!
WHEN THEY ARE RIGHT!!!!
I did a full upgrade to LED lights in my 1997 FZJ80 40th Anniversary Land Cruiser. And ... Yes I did order the
flasher module for LED Turn/Hazard bulbs. Searched high and low for a good guide to replace the Flasher Relay Module.
What I was looking for was where the heck the darn thing was. Good news. I learned how to completely take apart
the entire dashboard and the instrument cluster! (Score,,,) because someone mentioned on the forum that you had to
take the instrument cluster out. So I did. This provided the opportunity to change the cluster Back lighting to LEDs (Yesss!!).
I also took two silver control modules out. (Stupid because the flasher could not have fit in either of them!!!), but finally I
figured it out. and so I will try to impart my findings here onto those mechanically dis-inclined like myself.
****
- Open the Driver side door (instruction for left drive)!!!!!
- Remove the dead pedal. There is 10mm bolt at the base of it.
- On the door sill, Carefully pop up the three plastic pins (Yellow) to lift the door sill. This molded plastic extends al they way
to the firewall on the left of the dead pedal. Carefully slide this part back towards the real of the car. Try not to break the end
tabs like I did. Try not to scratch the car. You "may have to giggle the end of it loose before you pull the part back - I am not sure, since
seem to have damaged it but it did go back together somehow.
- To your left you will see a white plastic molded plate that houses two cubic replays and four round metal modules. See below.
View attachment 1508682
- There ... That is the flasher!!!!
- I think proper instructions are to remove the two bolt/nuts that hold it in. Getting the right one out is bit difficult
so I skipped and did not remove the white part!!! Your call.
- Pull the flasher out. If you don't remove the white plastic the flasher module is behind a thick harness.
As you can kind of see below the flasher plugs into another black molded part. This part along with a U shaped
metal part essentially change the pin configuration!
View attachment 1508693
- Pull the factory flasher out of the base socket which hopefully came out when you pulled the module out. There are
two plastic tabs. You can see one of them right below the number 79007. The module
I purchased, had the foot print of the base socket/adaptor, so I had to discard the base . However you will need the
U shaped metal part. Slide the part off the old flasher and slide it onto your new flasher. See picture below.
View attachment 1508694
- Plug your flasher back in. There are only three slots in the receiver. The top in (where you slid the metal adaptor on)
does not get plugged in. The pin on the bottom does.
- Obviously test that the flasher works (at the lower flashing frequency) before putting things back together.
- Reverse the steps to put the door sill back in. Slide in in and make sure its secure by the firewall. Also make sure it pops
into the edge of the door opening so that the yellow pop-in do-hickeys are aligned with the hole in the door sill.
- Carefully (or they'll flatten) pop the three yellow plastic yellow do-hickeys back in.
- Install the dead pedal
- If this goes well. It should take about 10 to 30 minutes depending on your level of experience. Ya - It took me 30 minutes,
but that pales in comparison to the 3 hours I spent taking the whole dash apart looking for the flasher.
For reference these were the parts I used for the Flasher and Light bulbs from Amazon;. Working and Looking great.
uxcell® Car Vehicle 3 Pin LED Turn Blinker Light Flasher Relay 12V DC 0.02-20A
Quantity: 1
iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super Bright Low Power 1156 1141 1003 BA15S LED Bulbs with Projector replacement for Turn Signal Lights,Amber Yellow
Quantity: 4
Thank you for this write-up. Just finished the swap and couldn't have done it without this. I'd never have found it on my own.Key Words: Toyota FZJ80 1997 Land Cruiser Flasher Relay Module LED Lights Replace / Replacing USA (Left Drive)
TL/DR (Jump to **** below if you don't want the drama!!)
Friends - I am not much of a mechanic, and even that may be an understatement, but I can follow instructions!!!!
WHEN THEY ARE RIGHT!!!!
I did a full upgrade to LED lights in my 1997 FZJ80 40th Anniversary Land Cruiser. And ... Yes I did order the
flasher module for LED Turn/Hazard bulbs. Searched high and low for a good guide to replace the Flasher Relay Module.
What I was looking for was where the heck the darn thing was. Good news. I learned how to completely take apart
the entire dashboard and the instrument cluster! (Score,,,) because someone mentioned on the forum that you had to
take the instrument cluster out. So I did. This provided the opportunity to change the cluster Back lighting to LEDs (Yesss!!).
I also took two silver control modules out. (Stupid because the flasher could not have fit in either of them!!!), but finally I
figured it out. and so I will try to impart my findings here onto those mechanically dis-inclined like myself.
****
- Open the Driver side door (instruction for left drive)!!!!!
- Remove the dead pedal. There is 10mm bolt at the base of it.
- On the door sill, Carefully pop up the three plastic pins (Yellow) to lift the door sill. This molded plastic extends al they way
to the firewall on the left of the dead pedal. Carefully slide this part back towards the real of the car. Try not to break the end
tabs like I did. Try not to scratch the car. You "may have to giggle the end of it loose before you pull the part back - I am not sure, since
seem to have damaged it but it did go back together somehow.
- To your left you will see a white plastic molded plate that houses two cubic replays and four round metal modules. See below.
View attachment 1508682
- There ... That is the flasher!!!!
- I think proper instructions are to remove the two bolt/nuts that hold it in. Getting the right one out is bit difficult
so I skipped and did not remove the white part!!! Your call.
- Pull the flasher out. If you don't remove the white plastic the flasher module is behind a thick harness.
As you can kind of see below the flasher plugs into another black molded part. This part along with a U shaped
metal part essentially change the pin configuration!
View attachment 1508693
- Pull the factory flasher out of the base socket which hopefully came out when you pulled the module out. There are
two plastic tabs. You can see one of them right below the number 79007. The module
I purchased, had the foot print of the base socket/adaptor, so I had to discard the base . However you will need the
U shaped metal part. Slide the part off the old flasher and slide it onto your new flasher. See picture below.
View attachment 1508694
- Plug your flasher back in. There are only three slots in the receiver. The top in (where you slid the metal adaptor on)
does not get plugged in. The pin on the bottom does.
- Obviously test that the flasher works (at the lower flashing frequency) before putting things back together.
- Reverse the steps to put the door sill back in. Slide in in and make sure its secure by the firewall. Also make sure it pops
into the edge of the door opening so that the yellow pop-in do-hickeys are aligned with the hole in the door sill.
- Carefully (or they'll flatten) pop the three yellow plastic yellow do-hickeys back in.
- Install the dead pedal
- If this goes well. It should take about 10 to 30 minutes depending on your level of experience. Ya - It took me 30 minutes,
but that pales in comparison to the 3 hours I spent taking the whole dash apart looking for the flasher.
For reference these were the parts I used for the Flasher and Light bulbs from Amazon;. Working and Looking great.
uxcell® Car Vehicle 3 Pin LED Turn Blinker Light Flasher Relay 12V DC 0.02-20A
Quantity: 1
iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super Bright Low Power 1156 1141 1003 BA15S LED Bulbs with Projector replacement for Turn Signal Lights,Amber Yellow
Quantity: 4
As others said, THANKS! This was just the ticket for me to swap all my bulbs out to LED (Turn signals are the only ones that need special attention). If you don't pay attention to how the metal converter went on original, you end up with 4 prongs and scratch your head for a few minutes until you realize that it swaps sides for 3 three prongs. Thanks again for the contribution !
+1 for the 3-Pin CF14 EP35
I bought the relay you linked above it didn’t work. I also have different LEDs than the ones you linked so maybe that’s it ? The relay snaps into place but now the turn signal doesn’t work at allKey Words: Toyota FZJ80 1997 Land Cruiser Flasher Relay Module LED Lights Replace / Replacing USA (Left Drive)
TL/DR (Jump to **** below if you don't want the drama!!)
Friends - I am not much of a mechanic, and even that may be an understatement, but I can follow instructions!!!!
WHEN THEY ARE RIGHT!!!!
I did a full upgrade to LED lights in my 1997 FZJ80 40th Anniversary Land Cruiser. And ... Yes I did order the
flasher module for LED Turn/Hazard bulbs. Searched high and low for a good guide to replace the Flasher Relay Module.
What I was looking for was where the heck the darn thing was. Good news. I learned how to completely take apart
the entire dashboard and the instrument cluster! (Score,,,) because someone mentioned on the forum that you had to
take the instrument cluster out. So I did. This provided the opportunity to change the cluster Back lighting to LEDs (Yesss!!).
I also took two silver control modules out. (Stupid because the flasher could not have fit in either of them!!!), but finally I
figured it out. and so I will try to impart my findings here onto those mechanically dis-inclined like myself.
****
- Open the Driver side door (instruction for left drive)!!!!!
- Remove the dead pedal. There is 10mm bolt at the base of it.
- On the door sill, Carefully pop up the three plastic pins (Yellow) to lift the door sill. This molded plastic extends al they way
to the firewall on the left of the dead pedal. Carefully slide this part back towards the real of the car. Try not to break the end
tabs like I did. Try not to scratch the car. You "may have to giggle the end of it loose before you pull the part back - I am not sure, since
seem to have damaged it but it did go back together somehow.
- To your left you will see a white plastic molded plate that houses two cubic replays and four round metal modules. See below.
View attachment 1508682
- There ... That is the flasher!!!!
- I think proper instructions are to remove the two bolt/nuts that hold it in. Getting the right one out is bit difficult
so I skipped and did not remove the white part!!! Your call.
- Pull the flasher out. If you don't remove the white plastic the flasher module is behind a thick harness.
As you can kind of see below the flasher plugs into another black molded part. This part along with a U shaped
metal part essentially change the pin configuration!
View attachment 1508693
- Pull the factory flasher out of the base socket which hopefully came out when you pulled the module out. There are
two plastic tabs. You can see one of them right below the number 79007. The module
I purchased, had the foot print of the base socket/adaptor, so I had to discard the base . However you will need the
U shaped metal part. Slide the part off the old flasher and slide it onto your new flasher. See picture below.
View attachment 1508694
- Plug your flasher back in. There are only three slots in the receiver. The top in (where you slid the metal adaptor on)
does not get plugged in. The pin on the bottom does.
- Obviously test that the flasher works (at the lower flashing frequency) before putting things back together.
- Reverse the steps to put the door sill back in. Slide in in and make sure its secure by the firewall. Also make sure it pops
into the edge of the door opening so that the yellow pop-in do-hickeys are aligned with the hole in the door sill.
- Carefully (or they'll flatten) pop the three yellow plastic yellow do-hickeys back in.
- Install the dead pedal
- If this goes well. It should take about 10 to 30 minutes depending on your level of experience. Ya - It took me 30 minutes,
but that pales in comparison to the 3 hours I spent taking the whole dash apart looking for the flasher.
For reference these were the parts I used for the Flasher and Light bulbs from Amazon;. Working and Looking great.
uxcell® Car Vehicle 3 Pin LED Turn Blinker Light Flasher Relay 12V DC 0.02-20A
Quantity: 1
iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super Bright Low Power 1156 1141 1003 BA15S LED Bulbs with Projector replacement for Turn Signal Lights,Amber Yellow
Quantity: 4
There are vendors that specialize in LED lighting for Land Cruisers in ‘MUD’s “Small Business Storefront” in the classified section. 
