FJ80 cabin air intake (7 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Here is my experiment. I ordered this 25 micron stainless steel mesh material to actually use it as a pollen filter on the roof intake for my 43, and decided to add some to the fresh air grills on the 80. It was pretty cheap on Ebay, and I was looking to keep pollen mostly from the vents. So far, just cut the strips bigger than the vents and put back in place, being held only by the vent clips.
Being stainless, can get wet and pass water easy enough. I did that already with a hose and they seem to work fine. Will update if it works to keep pollen, and dust, out.

View attachment 2650307View attachment 2650308View attachment 2650309
How does your blower airflow feel?

It may feel like less air or it may feel like you are in recirculation mode more than fresh air mode.

Is there a open area statement on the screen? Should be listed in a percentage.
 
Some pics I posted in another thread in October

8EE88478-F163-4C13-9A3B-F353B8DB0D97.jpeg


9DE7E1C1-CB54-4012-92D6-894F839A5E6F.jpeg


B75549B7-4724-4120-AE6A-2782020C1252.jpeg


9CCE82DC-57DA-4A85-BE8E-230440B247F4.jpeg
 
So... nothing easy/straightforward yet. Short of putting on “recirc”.
 
How does your blower airflow feel?

It may feel like less air or it may feel like you are in recirculation mode more than fresh air mode.

Is there a open area statement on the screen? Should be listed in a percentage.
It is a strainer mesh, so lists the size as shown in the pic, 25 micron, not a filter with open area. These are used in food processing, most places that sell them are food processing equipment places.
Air flow on fresh is reduced of course. On low power, no difference, medium is about 25% lower on fresh, high about 35-40% lower on fresh. These measurements were done using my hand-o-meter and they are not calibrated.
The lowest size mesh I found is 2 microns, and that would pretty much eliminate road dust, but will suck at sucking (see what I did there?). Another option I will work with in the future is to sandwich the plastic grate on the 25 micron mesh, and see how that holds up. It may be easier to clean by just hosing it of.
Water does pass freely through on 25 microns.
 
Would someone be better served 3D printing a snap on cowl cover that could be mounted to the metal cowl and support a filter?
Could also be reversed in installation and used as a scoop for highway driving out west
 
How does your blower airflow feel?

It may feel like less air or it may feel like you are in recirculation mode more than fresh air mode.

Is there a open area statement on the screen? Should be listed in a percentage.
Update now that I have driven a few times, including dirt roads.

  • The Airflow - feels the same while driving 40mph, at any blower speed shifting between fresh or cabin circulate, the air flow is steady (measured with my hand-o-meter). My previous comparison was vehicle parked.
  • There is a LOT less "dust" in the cabin. Test was running the Uwharrie National Forrest dirt and gravel roads with fresh air turned on. Compared to the stock intake with cabin AC on circulate, measured with my eye-ball-meter and a cleaning wipe.
More to come, but so far seems to be an improvement for a few mins of work and 4 screws in/out.
 
Heres how I made my cabin air filter:

PART 1: MAKING THE ACCESS PANEL
  • Marking out the cut: I measured the distance from the cowl vent edge to the side of the HVAC intake (I believe it was 9"), then I marked that distance on the top of the cowl. Next, I marked out the other end of the HVAC intake based on length shown in the template provided by @Arabian Cruiser. I added like 1" to each side to provide additional clearance (and I knew that I would be adding a lip for the lid to rest on later)
    IMG_6751.jpeg
  • Cutting the Access: Protect your paint & glass then make the cut. I made the innermost cut first and then welded on a hinge, it's easier to do this at this point as it keeps the panel in the correct location. Then finish your cuts
  • IMG_6752.jpeg
    IMG_6753.jpeg
  • Do whatever work you need to on your flappers now.
  • Shape and weld in a 1" wide metal strap on the underside lip for the lid to rest on, take your time, there's lots of bending, hammering, and fine-tuning to get the lid to lay flat.
  • IMG_6766.jpeg
  • Prime and paint, this won't be visible so whatever floats your boat here. Allow to cure then install waterproofing gasket, doesn't need to be perfect just get it as best you can. Focus on making sure the low points and the front edge have good coverage.
  • IMG_6780.jpeg
 
Part 1 (Cont.)
  • Next Create a way to secure the panel, I used a strap and ran it across the center of the plate, then had it bent up at the end so when it's bolted down it's applying pressure to the plate holding it snuggly against the weather seals. I also welded a captive nut in the cowl for the hold-down bolt but you could use a nut-sert.
  • IMG_6783.jpeg
Part 2: Making the filter

  • You'll need a small section of expanded metal, tin snips or grinder, and a trimable filter medium. I used this Merv 8 (FPR 5) filter from home depot for various reasons which I'll share below.
    IMG_6778.jpeg
  • Making the bottom grate with expanded metal: This grate wedges in the slot between the top of the plastic blower housing and the metal body, there was enough of a gap there that the expanded metal was able to slip in between the two surfaces tightly.
    • First, make a rough template, I used a wire then made a cardboard template and kept refining til it was pretty close. Then I marked it out on the expanded metal and cut it out WIDE. You want to leave 1/2" to 3/4" around the edges, remember this isn't supposed to fit the opening perfectly it's supposed to sit ON TOP of the plastic blower assembly.
    • Once I had it close I cut it in half to make insertion easier, you can see this cut in the photo below. Now you can put the pieces in place, you may need to bend it up in the center slightly.
    • IMG_6779.jpeg
  • Next I printed and cut out @Arabian Cruiser 's template and test fitted it over the grate. Notice that it's not a perfect fit, regardless it was a helpful starting point (he did this without being able to see it so its actually pretty close considering that). I took this picture and used it as I traced the template on to cardboard, expanding the dimensions where I needed to. Then I test fitted and fine tuned it till I was happy with it.
  • IMG_6776.jpeg
  • I used the cardboard template to trace and cutt out a filter from the filter pad.
    IMG_6781.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Part 2 (Cont)
  • This particular filter comes with a plastic grate which is neat, I cut out a section of it so it fits tightly in the opening. I used a piece of weather stripping to create a hold down on one side. This will keep the filter from popping out in the event the cab gets overpressurized (doors slamming shut).
    IMG_6782.jpeg

Thats it, the air flow is totally fine and I saved the filter and template for future use.
 
Last edited:
  • First, make a rough template, I used a wire then made a cardboard template and kept refining til it was pretty close.
Any chance you still have that, and could snap a picture of it while it's on a rectangular background? (like a sheet of printer paper)
I think with that I could design a 3D printed filter body to stick in there from the side.
 
Any chance you still have that, and could snap a picture of it while it's on a rectangular background? (like a sheet of printer paper)
I think with that I could design a 3D printed filter body to stick in there from the side.
How’s this
D9E02D0A-379D-4FF8-8AB5-1DD1A3A3B958.jpeg
AAA771CD-46E3-48AA-85A6-FEB72D61FB27.jpeg
 
Yea I bought my rig with dents in it already with the primary intent to use the heck out of it, at the end of the day it's just a vehicle, just a material thing:hillbilly:. Also, the access door is completely hidden from sight anyway once the cowl cover is on. I have no intention of ever selling this rig, so my rather cavalier approach to making mods like this is different than others.
 
I dare say that this is the one and only thing that, er, my friend's 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee is better thought out than my 94 Land Cruiser. They built in an easily replaceable cabin air filter. One for mopar.
 
While servicing the blower, made a bottom-accessible coarse "beret" filter. @Arabian Cruiser's template #239 and tape measurements #191 helped.

3M cut-to-fit Filtrete from Lowes advertised washable. Comparing my old K&N 22RE pre-filter, Filtrete came a little thicker 1". Brim foam & mesh were about 1" oversize to hook over the intake snout, sewed snug with upholstery thread by my aspiring 11yo fashion designer.

Shoved it up like a nerf toy. Seems to be holding, otherwise our amateur embroidery will meet the blender🤞

filtrete.JPG


kn-vs-filtrete.JPG


layers.JPG


foam-beret_inside.JPG


chimneyview.JPG
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom