FJ62 Transmission Oil cooler install (1 Viewer)

[euclid]

I have a quaestion reguarding running the trans fluid threw original radiator then to the new cooler.
Wouldnt the stock radiator increase the heat of the trans fluid. Beins its running threw the rad thats cooling the motor? Why wouldnt it be better to eliminate the radiator and run lines straight to aafter market cooler?

Wow. I'm pretty sure I understood your question.

I figure it this way... If your transmission is running at 220 degrees and you run it through the radiator cooler first it will cool down to around 180 or 190 which is about what your engine runs. After that you run it through the auxillary cooler and get it down another 30 or 50 degrees. Just running it through the auxillary cooler is only going to gain you the 30 or 50 degrees. Besides, it's there... why not use it? Only reason I can think of is if you are replacing the radiator and want to save money by buying a radiator without the transmission cooler.

Look at Gregs diagram - then things begin to make sence.

Credit where credit is due: Somebody on 3FE did that, not me.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

G.T.
If you're euclids42 on the 3FE list then you deserve some credit.

euclids42 returned my post on the list which brought me to do the below.

tranny rebuilt


I also have my 2nd cooler in tandem with the original oil cooler.

 

[euclid]

G.T.
If you're euclids42 on the 3FE list then you deserve some credit.

euclids42 returned my post on the list which brought my to do the below.

tranny rebuilt


I also have my 2nd cooler in tandem with the original oil cooler.

You are fearless. Way to go. Good addition to this thread, too.

 

[BigSur]

Greg, you could say i am a lil' lost...do i need that cooler up front for this all to work?

 

[euclid]

Yep, it goes in front of the radiator.

Greg, you could say i am a lil' lost...do i need that cooler up front for this all to work?

 

[tclndcrz]

Very cool. great information. i think i will be adding a tranny cooler when i rebuild my transmission in about a month. the cruiser has to travel cross country a few more time and i may as well protect my investment

 

[mmw68]

Was digging up this thread today for a friend so I could send him a parts list..Thanks to Randy at RT Customs for putting list together for me.

This can all be purchased thru Summitracing.com

SUM-2200075 Tubing adapter need 2 (For mounting to the cooler)
SUM-220785 20' of twist tite hose 3/8 (Hose for the cooler)
SUM-220711 90 degree 6-an twist tite (For the cooler and the Rad.)
EAR-9919DFHERL Metric to -6 AN adapter (For the Rad.)
TFS-22666 -6AN couplings (Couple the Hose end to the Cooler adapter)
SUM-220701 -6 AN fitting (Spare in the event you don't use a 90)

 

[mmw68]

Pictures:

 

[Spook50]

Was digging up this thread today for a friend so I could send him a parts list..Thanks to Randy at RT Customs for putting list together for me.

This can all be purchased thru Summitracing.com

SUM-2200075 Tubing adapter need 2 (For mounting to the cooler)
SUM-220785 20' of twist tite hose 3/8 (Hose for the cooler)
SUM-220711 90 degree 6-an twist tite (For the cooler and the Rad.)
EAR-9919DFHERL Metric to -6 AN adapter (For the Rad.)
TFS-22666 -6AN couplings (Couple the Hose end to the Cooler adapter)
SUM-220701 -6 AN fitting (Spare in the event you don't use a 90)

Why the complete replacement of the hard lines?

 

[tonkota]

Why the complete replacement of the hard lines?

Once upon a time in the rust belt and those hard lines are pricey IIRC.

 

[nmt252355]

Can anyone give me the size & thread pitch of the barbed hose fittings on the return line to the transmission from the radiator. I bought a Hayden tranny oil cooler and instead of cutting the stock hose and reusing the fittings I'd like to keep that line as a back up and have a shop build me 2 lines.

thanks

 

[nmt252355]

bumpp

 

[franklin40]

slight hijack of and old thread but I'm planning on a tranny cooler for my 62. I was wondering how much fluid the stock cooler holds when the engine is off. does is work as a reservoir or is it empty at rest allowing fluid to pass through only when running. I want to be prepared for how much fluid I'm going to loose when I pull the flex line off.

 

[franklin40]

well i used this thread for directions on my cooler instal and they made it very easy. i used a Hayden 678 cooler from summit racing. i bought 9 feet of cooler hose (used about 6 of it plus the 4 foot section that came with the cooler).

i started out preparing for loosing fluid as i have never done this before and hadn't found any info as to if the stock cooler acted as a reservoir (it doesn't seem to as i didn't have a gush of fluid come out). i started by attaching the cooler to the front of the air conditioning rad. then i hooked up the two hoses and ran then through a hole on the drivers side of the radiator. the passenger side had the air conditioning rad hoses coming through there. i didn't like the look of running it through the front of the frame as some guys have described so i used a little more hose). i then measured the lengths and cut the hoses accordingly. then i cut the crimp off the radiator side with out taking the connector off (used my dremel). this let the hose slide off. i plugged the hose with my thumb while sliding the hose to the top of the transmission cooler on (make sure to have the clamp on the hose ahead of time). then i plugged the hose i just pulled off with a 3/8 bolt to stop fluid from coming out. i lost about 6 drops in this process. then i cut the crimp off the return line at the hard line and using the same process hooked up the bottom hose of the transmission cooler. again i lost about 6 drops of fluid. there was about 20 ml of fluid in the short hose that i removed so hardly any fluid is lost with this instal. just need to buy a few zip ties to hold the new hoses where i want them. it was so simple. i tightened up all the clamps and took it for a drive. with the transmission at operating temp the fluid was at the top of the hot mark so i didn't need to add any.

thanks for all the info in this thread, it sure made it easy. now i'm ready for my 33's (well after i get a new rear diff but that's a different thread).

 

[The BurgerMeister]

Thanks for the write-up!

Installed a b&m 70268 this morning.

Attached cooler to condenser and radiator with the supplied... Zip ties, I guess you'd call them.
Ran the cooler intake line toward the passenger's side and the output toward the driver's side.
Used a dremel to cut off the crimp collars (see OP's pictures) on the stock hose.
Removed one end of the hose from the stock barb fitting, added the new hose to said fitting, clamped it down.
Repeated on other end, right where the hard line to the tranny connects to the hose.
Zip tied everything up, made sure there were no kinks or tight corners in the new hose and that nothing was going to get caught in a belt or anything else.
Lost a very small amount of fluid from the hose I took out, probably a shot glass worth.
Drove up the mountain today with the whole family, dog, and luggage... Transmission was MUCH happier!

Rock on, IH8MUD!!!

 

[peterb]

Hello All
I've wandered over here from the 70 Forum. Thanks for this great thread. I used the parts list but ordered a Derale 13311 (DER-13311 P/N @ Summit) for the install on my 1989 BJ-74 with the A440 auto. This cooler has male 6AN nipples, eliminating the need for adapters.
I'll report back after the install.
Peter

 

[dbleon]

Id like to add more to this thread if possible since its already a good one!!

Disclaimer!! Im not an expert or smart or a mechanic... so take this for what its worth.

There is some sort of fallacy floating around out there that the purpose of running the trans fluid through the radiator first (when installing an auxilary cooler) is to "HEAT it up" to operating temperature.

This is very incorrect and also very common to hear discuused.

The trans fluid temperature downstream the radiator will always be less than upstream. This is true even when coolant temp exceeds that of trans fluid... seems counterintuitive.

What you are doing by using both sytems in conjuction (radiator and aux cooler) is increasing overall cooling capacity... however you may be able to achieve the same capacity by using an aux cooler by itself (depending on size/surface area of course). How much cooling capacity you need to keep the temps in the seet spot will depends on your particular setup, driving needs/conditions among other variables..

It should, however, be noted that efficiency of liquid versus air cooling differs. LIquid cooling is far more efficient from a heat transfer persepective.

I believe, there are several resons why auto makers use the radiator for auto trans cooling:

1. less parts to manufacture
2. efficacy of liquid cooling
3. liquid cooling will work in circumstances where air cooling may not (ie. backing a load up a hill, etc)
4. other factors beyond my small brain... probaby more economical/practical than performance.

So.

In making my decision on whether or not to bypass the radiator, I thought about points of failure; 3 hoses/fittings versus two, possibility of mixing fluids (BAD), etc. in relation to tailoring cooling capacity needs for my drining conditions (I live in PHX AZ if that gives an idea of conditions)

Thus far, using only a (large) B&M stacked plate cooler on my 4l60e behind 300 hp, often towing loads 2-4k lbs plus cargo... it has done admirably. I have not found myself in any situation where I felt the need for the extra radiator cooling capacity or efficiency. My trans temps generally never exceed 170* F in any condition. typically hovering around 150-155* F..

Just thought I'd throw this out there to help anyone making the same descision or thinking about these stupid things.

Would love to hear from the engineers...

Cheers
and
Merry Christmas

D.

 

[jhanger]

I'm experiencing high temps on my "new" auto transmission. So hot that even the shift lever rod gets really hot. Back story: I have had hell since I bought my cruiser last October with 244k miles. The seller had receipts detailing a rebuilt transmission at 190k and he also stated that the motor had been tuned up at that time as well tho I have no receipt for that in my 2 inch thick receipt folder. She ran great and the only problem was a small oil leak at the rear main seal...on my new driveway. So in November I took her to a local toyota specialist who said he didn't have the right lift to tackle the seal replacement. So with a heavy heart I took her to the toyota dealership. I asked the mechanic assigned (a 25 yr old "cruiser specialist" - ha) if he was going to remove the engine or drop the tranny, he replied engine (radiator had several bad spots so put in a new radiator as well). Got the cruiser back and that day she blew a coolant line and fluid went everywhere. Replaced that hose and added more coolant. ok. Next issue was gauges. Temp gauge and oil pressure gauges were not working correctly. After several new sending units the gauges still don't work right. In January I spun a rod bearing. Completely rebuilt the 3FE and desmogged it as well following Spook50's write up including new exhaust. Running great for about two weeks and then transmission goes out. Low and second work, but third and fourth gear might as well be neutral. So I find a good used (175k) tranny (thanks to Georg @ Valley Hybrids) and get it installed. A few small trips around town and no problems. Great - I'll take her on a 160 mile trip. When I was pulling back into town I noticed how hot the shifter was and then the AT temp light came on. Went straight home and let her cool. That Saturday after reading forums on here, I took her to the exhaust shop to check for leak. None found. So now I've decided to replace the auxiliary AT cooler (tube and fun) with a B&M stacked plate cooler 70624 from Summit. I'm also going to check all my lines to rule out crimps or blockage. I'm also wanting to switch from standard AT fluid to synthetic AT fluid. So now my question: since I'm switching to synthetic should I flush the system before the new AT cooler install or after? Any other advice?Thanks. I love IH8MUD.

Ps still have to fix my damn gauges...one day I'll feel comfortable and actually drive my rig to Ouray and beyond.

 

[collk22]

If I'm reading the installs correctly, you guys are running the "out" line from radiator, to the Trans Cooler, and then the Trans Cooler "out" back to the transmission return line. How do I identify which of the fluid lines is which (send/return)? I've been scouring these threads and I feel like a moron for asking, but I can't seem to figure it out.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Elbert]

I believe the correct flow of the fluid is this (if running the cooler in the radiator plus an aux cooler for the transmission fluid)...out from the transmission....to the radiator cooler then out from the radiator cooler to the aux cooler and then out from the aux cooler returning to the transmission.

Just googled this... http://myautomatictransmission.com/diy-automatic-transmission-oil-cooler-installation.htm
which has some good info. Or go surf around one of the aftermarket transmission shops web site that has similar info.

I believe there is some merit in the concept of heating the fluid....especially in cold climate in the winter..like Canada and other locations. Generally you are concerned about the fluid getting too hot, but I would assume that dealing with severe cold for extended periods might not be so good either.

Many GM and other brand 3/4 and 1 ton trucks run aux coolers...plumbed as noted.