After all this, Which hose is the return I should plum for the tranny cooler?
FJ62 Transmission Oil cooler install
- Thread starter euclid
- Start date
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red66toy
Supporting Vendor
One on the left is the input, one the right is the output.
Just to be 100 clear.
So I’m going to be running the cooler from the return
So I’m going to be running the cooler from the return
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Correct. Return line goes to the additional cooler.
Okay, I’ve run around stores trying to find 14x1.5 fittings. Seems impossible.
I tried the part numbers for the summit racing bits and they are all not available.
What I need is a 1x 90 degree female elbow + 1x male straight to hose
will this fit?
90 elbow female
www.summitracing.com
Male to male fitting
www.summitracing.com
Straight female (use the male to male converter)
www.summitracing.com
I tried the part numbers for the summit racing bits and they are all not available.
What I need is a 1x 90 degree female elbow + 1x male straight to hose
will this fit?
90 elbow female
Summit Racing® Twist-Tite Swivel Hose Ends SUM-260687B
Find Summit Racing® Twist-Tite Swivel Hose Ends SUM-260687B and get Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing! Our Summit® Twist-Tite swivel hose ends are some of the easiest AN fittings to assemble. Just slip our Summit® Twist-Tite hose over the barbed portion of the hose ends, and...
www.summitracing.com
Trick Flow® TFX™ Couplers TFS-22666
Find Trick Flow® TFX™ Couplers TFS-22666 and get Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing! Trick Flow® TFX™ coupler fittings are easy to install. They're made from precision CNC-machined aerospace grade aluminum and feature a sharp, black anodized finish for great looks and...
www.summitracing.com
Summit Racing® Twist-Tite Swivel Hose Ends SUM-260690B
Find Summit Racing® Twist-Tite Swivel Hose Ends SUM-260690B and get Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing! Our Summit® Twist-Tite swivel hose ends are some of the easiest AN fittings to assemble. Just slip our Summit® Twist-Tite hose over the barbed portion of the hose ends, and...
www.summitracing.com
@Austrol I bought this kit and it worked well for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V3NLM7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! Just ordered what I needed! And just caught next day delivery!
I am looking to install a external transmission cooler to my 1989 fj62. Does anyone have a complete parts list? I feel like I have read all the threads and have yet to come across a full list of everything needed.
I used all of these plus 4ft extra of oil hose from O’rielys
Thank you. How many each of the fittings do I need?
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1 of each.
blue male to male and the 90deg connect to the radiator.
the straight hose plug is for the return and screws to the original return.
I used mostparts of the fittings clips including the hose clamps.
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The link isn't working, can you send it again?
Great info in this thread, thanks to everyone who previously posted! The diagram showing the way the lines should be routed to and from the radiator are especially helpful. I just recently discovered that a previous owner of my '89 62 added an auxiliary trans cooler in front and bypassed the radiator. I don't think my transmission is overheating but I have also never tested the ATF warning light on the shifter housing. Is that light supposed to come on like the check engine light when you turn the key to let you know it's working?
I am trying to decide now whether to route the cooler lines through the radiator and auxiliary cooler as it was originally supposed to be set up.
I am trying to decide now whether to route the cooler lines through the radiator and auxiliary cooler as it was originally supposed to be set up.
Hey @surfcraft3
How large is the aux cooler?
I don't believe that light turns on when you turn the key to ACC, but not a 100 percent.
I would reroute it through the radiator... It keeps the fluid close to 195 degrees, so if you're climbing a steep hill in 2nd and the transmission starts to heat up to 250 or something, nothing will cool the transmission fluid faster than the radiator heat exchanger.
The idea is with the factory design, is also that if you live in a really cold area, the transmission fluid is heated up to ideal working temperatures.
If the temperature of the transmission oil is 200, then the aux trans cooler will drop it another 20-30 degrees, which is kinda needed for this transmission and adds a lot of life to the transmission.
If you don't have a transmission temperature gauge inline, I'd consider adding that. And /or get a cheap IR gun and get used to pointing it to the transmission fluid outlet in order to understand what temperatures you get when doing what.
Hope that helps!
Transmission should definitely be routed through the radiator cooler.
1) It removes a tremendous amount of heat if the transmission gets extremely hot
2) It does slightly warm up the fluid if the transmission is very cold
Vehicles that only have an "aux" cooler usually have a very large cooler, and the fluid flow to the transmission is thermostatically controlled.
By the way, when installing an aux cooler on my 62, I realized it's actually possible to re-use the stock fittings without issue. If you just cut the outer crimp off the factory hose (that you are no longer using), you're left with a hose barb that fits 3/8" line perfectly. You don't need to buy any fittings at all.
1) It removes a tremendous amount of heat if the transmission gets extremely hot
2) It does slightly warm up the fluid if the transmission is very cold
Vehicles that only have an "aux" cooler usually have a very large cooler, and the fluid flow to the transmission is thermostatically controlled.
By the way, when installing an aux cooler on my 62, I realized it's actually possible to re-use the stock fittings without issue. If you just cut the outer crimp off the factory hose (that you are no longer using), you're left with a hose barb that fits 3/8" line perfectly. You don't need to buy any fittings at all.
Just finished installing an aux cooler on mine. I used a GMC Yukon transmission cooler I got from a junkyard for $20. It's not the biggest thing in the world, but it was good enough for a 5,000 pound SUV with a V8. Plus, I figured if my Cruiser made it this far without one, any extra cooling at all will be welcomed.
I had to remake all of the hard lines. Used copper-nickle tubing and brazed them onto the stock brackets. I then used a brake line flaring tool to add a "bubble" to the end of the lines. If you just use the "step 1" die, and don't squeeze down all the way, it makes a perfect little barb/bubble on the lines for holding onto the hoses.
I avoided the need to buy any AN fittings by carefully cutting apart the old transmission lines. If you just cut the outer crimp sleeve off, you are left with a perfect hose barb fitting that screws right into the radiator.
I did the same flaring trick on the GM transmission cooler to better hold the hoses.
The GM cooler conveniently has two clip nuts pre-installed that are the same size and pitch as all of the 10mm head bolts the rest of the cruiser uses. Just drill two little holes in the top rad support and it bolts right in. Conveniently a hole in the grille support also lines up with the lower bracket on the cooler. A simple bolt and nut there secures it firmly.
I had to remake all of the hard lines. Used copper-nickle tubing and brazed them onto the stock brackets. I then used a brake line flaring tool to add a "bubble" to the end of the lines. If you just use the "step 1" die, and don't squeeze down all the way, it makes a perfect little barb/bubble on the lines for holding onto the hoses.
I avoided the need to buy any AN fittings by carefully cutting apart the old transmission lines. If you just cut the outer crimp sleeve off, you are left with a perfect hose barb fitting that screws right into the radiator.
I did the same flaring trick on the GM transmission cooler to better hold the hoses.
The GM cooler conveniently has two clip nuts pre-installed that are the same size and pitch as all of the 10mm head bolts the rest of the cruiser uses. Just drill two little holes in the top rad support and it bolts right in. Conveniently a hole in the grille support also lines up with the lower bracket on the cooler. A simple bolt and nut there secures it firmly.
