FJ55 My stock build for DD (1 Viewer)

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Marshal, this is the reply I got from rareparts in Australia;
Hi Lou,

Regarding your internet order, the panels that you have ordered we do not keep in stock. These panels have to be made and could take up to 2 months. I just recently had a customer order the same panels, also from the US and president of one of the Land Cruiser clubs in North America, who ordered them on the 23/1 and they were supplied on the 7/3. Just a warning that there will be a little bit of a wait. As for the rear corners, the previous customer also queried them but unfortunately they are not available. If you could get back to me via any of the options below so that I can get the panels on order.

Cheers

Kind regards,

Suzannah Jones
Rare Spares Auto One
160 Canterbury rd
Bayswater VIC 3153
Ph: 61 3 9729 0911
Fax: 61 3 9720 6554
Email: orders@rarespares.net.au
Web: www.rarespares.net.au/bayswater
maybe if enough of us show interest we might get them to make us corners and floor boards?
Lou


Sounds like me huh?:D Yes the parts do take some time to be made. 8 weeks is a drop in the bucket when you consider the other options.:D Which is zero at the current moment. I hope to fix that by sending Eshan my cut out panels.
 
I'm in on the sheet metal group buy - I'll put together my wish list. top of the list will be the rear fender ends that they say they're not making any more. maybe a group buy could change their mind.

Harry
 
exhaust

Troll
I assume this is stock config. i did not get the very end of the tail pipe with hanger that attaches to the exterior side of frame . The exhaust end goes straight back and angles down out the rear. Seems to me it would be better to bring the exhaust out behind the shackle and then straight back. i'll take more if need be.

Hope this helps
Hatch :beer:



that is water in the barn...it rained today
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Got some work done yesterday inbetween the rain. Finally got the gas tank in. The earlier tank didn't fit exactly as the mounting holes were short by 1/4 inch. A die grinder fixed that issue. Also got the new Aisan Brake master bench bled and installed. All I have left to do from what I can tell is bleed the brakes again adjust them and attach the fuel lines up.

She is getting closer to getting on the road.
 
Marshall, thanks for posting up the info on the repair panels, just purchased some yesterday, I just needed the rears but that countoured lip will be much easier to restore now! It cost me about $200 shipped for 2 panels but these will be much easier than figuring out how to make something up myself.

noah
 
Got a lot done this weekend. Was trying to get the pig ready for our club monthly meeting. Worked my ass off Fri and Sat.

Installed battery hold down
Replaced plug wires cap and points. (found a really cheap place for those parts) $13 for the bosh plug wires. $6 for the 6 NGK plugs

bench bled Aisan Brake master $119 and bled the system. Now it will actually stop. The CCOT brake master was a piece of crap.

Put the front seat back in and since I have sent my cover to Atlas to be reproduced I put on a cheapo cover to get by.

Drained the rear diff. That stuff flowed out like tar. I think I'll replace the pinion seal as it looked to be leaking.

Greased all the zerks

Put two new fan belts on. The ones I took off were OEM and in pretty good shape. Is there anyone who would want them for a resto or should I just toss them?

Drained the radiator. It first wouldn't come out of the drain. Finally after shoving a screwdrive through it flowed. Not a good sign.

Took all the radiator hoses off and found there was severe corrosion. Ordered a new thermostat, water pump and all the seals. When I went to take the thermostat top bolts off the snapped. Imagine that. I had a spare housing but it was missing the emissions sensor locations. So I cut the 55 cap about 1/4 way down enough to get the top off and then welded nuts onto the broken studs. Came right out.

The water pump looked coroded but not to bad. I decided to see if it would work without the thermostat which was on order. Got everthing back together and drove it around the block. Seemed to work great so I drove some more. Got the old gals upt to 30. Thats when I noticed the temp starting to rise so I pulled back into the diveway. At this point it was hot and fluid was coming back out of the overflow. At this point I knew the piggy was not going to make the meeting.

Couple of questions.

I thought you could run a 2f without a thermostat?

If so I think the cooling system need more attention than a new water pump. I thought I would flush it myself with some of that stuff designed for this. But maybe I should drop the radiator and have it cleaned. What do you think?

I was a little depressed that most of the stock hose clamps broke. Anyone know where I could find the old wire ones?

Also my oil pressure is right on the lower line. Do you think if I ran some engine cleaner through the block it might go up? When I removed the oilpan it had about an inch of sludge in the bottom. I cleaned the oil pump screen but I think there might be more sludge in the engine. What do you think?



It was good to have the pig running again. Even after 20 years of sitting she still had some pep. With only 76k on the 2f there are a lot more years of good service out of this engine. There really is nothing like driving a 55. My 40 drives totally different and doesn't feel like your driving an old vehicle. The 55 does. I set lower in the seat and everything feels different. Cannot wait to get the piggy on the road for good.
 
Marshall,

Congrats on breathing some life into the old pig. As far as the temp is concerned I'd go for a thorough a rad flush as you can do and be ready for a recore on the radiator - especially after you had to fight the muck on the bottom to pop the drain open. At a minimum consider getting the radiator boiled and see if it helps.

For the OEM hose clamps - I think that you can still get the OEM ones rather chep so give Cdan a call and see what he can do.

Harry
 
Marshall; get the radiator cleaned by a radiator shop and might think of having it recored with a larger capacity core..........one of those things you willl never regret.........we used to run F and 2F motors in the tropics w/o thermostats or <shudder> antifreeze!

Lou
 
Marshall, what did you use for battery hold down? where did you buy it?


It was OEM. I just had taken it off as the PO had it in the glove box. It is fairly coroaded and I will probably bend some new stock to replace it. But that is way down on the list as it still holds right now.
 
Marshall; get the radiator cleaned by a radiator shop and might think of having it recored with a larger capacity core..........one of those things you willl never regret.........we used to run F and 2F motors in the tropics w/o thermostats or <shudder> antifreeze!

Lou


Yeah I think I'll drop it and have it recored. The guys at the radiator shop shold know what to do.
 
Well I finally had some time this weekend to work on the pig. Removed radiator and water pump. Had a few bolts that were seized. Heated them up and hit them with the impact hammer and they finally came off. Radiator is going out to be cleaned. New pump is on. Now just waiting on the radiator. It didn't look bad. The water pump was a different story. I'll post pics tomorrow of it.
 
Got the radiator cleaned back and started assembly

Finally some pics.

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Pink in the piggy! removed as much as I could from the front to hit it with some spray paint.

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I originally was just going to throw it all back togethr but decided do it at least half right and paint some stuff while it was easy to take off.

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I really don't know if the inner radiator supports and light supports should be white but from what I could tell in cleaning things it was the best I could do.


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The rubber gasket under the radiator actually turned out pretty good and was in good shape.

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Radiator back in. I took a small screw driver and straightened out the fins as best I could. Never realized they were so thin.

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Then I decided to paint the air cleaner.

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Still have a lot of work to do but at least it is all back together and in running order.

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