FJ40 Full Floater Axle Build (IH8C-CLIPS)

[Mudder]

What type of drain plug are you using? I know lots of others that go with the low profile ones for that reason.

 

[abosely]

Planning on a low profile socket type.

Allen

 

[Stumpalama]

I've had both and damaged each. I seem to have a habit of hanging my rear diff on rocks.. .

 

[GLTHFJ60]

My vote is for welding in the drain plug, if not shaving the housing.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Since you are starting with a SF housing, you will need a rear cover anyway. If you get the mondobeefy one from RuffStuff, you can install a drain plug in that, just by drilling and tapping a hole near the bottom. I did that on my FJ40 and it works great. Than you can just weld up the factory plug, which is in a dumb spot.

This:
Land Cruiser 9.5" Differential Cover

With this:
Weld-in Drain or Fill Plug

Or just drill and tap a 1/4 NPT flush plug like I did.

 

[Stumpalama]

Since you are starting with a SF housing, you will need a rear cover anyway. If you get the mondobeefy one from RuffStuff, you can install a drain plug in that, just by drilling and tapping a hole near the bottom. I did that on my FJ40 and it works great. Than you can just weld up the factory plug, which is in a dumb spot.

This:
Land Cruiser 9.5" Differential Cover

With this:
Weld-in Drain or Fill Plug

Or just drill and tap a 1/4 NPT flush plug like I did.

As a matter of fact, I have the original 3/8" cover that RS made as my diff cover, so I am set there. I did see a picture of where someone took a 5/6" button head bolt and drilled and tapped the diff cover to use as a drain. That is dead simple.

 

[abosely]

Cruiserdrew, that's a great idea!
I think I'll go that route as I'm using a RS diff cover too.

Allen

 

[Stumpalama]

...and here it is: Diff Cover Drain Plug Kit : TMR Customs, Custom Fabrication Components for Offroad Vehicles

 

[Stumpalama]

I have a 1/4 NPT tap from my recent rebuild of my PS and tap for ram... Perfect.
Time to break out the hole cutter and welder!

 

[Stumpalama]

Pricey, but cool, nonetheless: Amazon.com: 1/4"-18 NPT Industrial Magnetic Drain Plug (Internal Head) IP-02: Automotive

 

[my67nova]

I just ordered a set of RCV axles for the front and rear for my 60 series. The rear is a full float like yours and they are making a set of axles for me. They are 30 spline on both ends and use a splined flange same as front, so you could use a set of locking hubs on the rear if you wanted. I went with the 4340's if you want stronger they can make them with 300m about 15% STRONGER. Ask for Paul in the custom axle department he knows his axles. Very helpful and easy to deal with, plus they are MADE IN THE USA! That's my 2 cents worth.....

Well, it didn't take me long to break both stock rear axle shafts after moving up to 37" PBR's.

It's now time to get rid of those c-clips forever and move up to a full floater with chromoly axle shafts.

This thread will detail the process for converting an FJ40 axle to a full floater using @lcwizard 's FF axle brackets, TG studless hubs, FJ60 brake discs and calipers and RCV custom double spline axle shafts.

Step 1: Pull the busted axle shaft and get the axle housing up on the work bench.

Step 2: Remove the pressed on dust flange from the axle using a steel drift and a ball peen hammer

Test fitting the spindle mount bracket

@lcwizard FF bracket:

 

[Stumpalama]

I got the perches welded on... those digital angle meters are money. Welded up the old breather hole and cut out the drain and welded in a piece of 1/4 plate cut with a hole saw.

 

[Mace]

Pricey, but cool, nonetheless: Amazon.com: 1/4"-18 NPT Industrial Magnetic Drain Plug (Internal Head) IP-02: Automotive

How cheap do you want it to be?
V-Twin Magnetic Drain Plug

Magnetic Plug, Hex Socket 1/4-18 NPT | Pegasus

 

[White Stripe]

I just cut around the stock protector ring with a plasma cutter, pushed it into the housing so it was flush, then welded it back in. Makes for a quick and easy recessed drain plug.

 

[Stumpalama]

Now we are getting somewhere...

RCV axles should be here any day.

 

[Stumpalama]

The axle shafts will be here tomorrow! I am ready to install them and get this thing back in the rocks.
I greased the wheel bearings with Sta-lube red stuff. It is the 1st time I've used it and I'm interested to see how it holds up.

 

[jstncse]

How long has it been down. Since December?
Your going to love it, I have 1 ton axles ready to install and I just can't justify tearing mine down because it works so well.

 

[Stumpalama]

The axle came out in November. I can't wait to get this all together.

 

[Stumpalama]

One side done! Somehow I wound up with only one spindle gasket and one backing plate gasket. I don't know why I had an odd number, but I will pick up 3 more of each from my local Toyota dealer on Monday.

I had to sacrifice my old backing plates to create the spacer for the spindle.

The axle shafts are perfect. It was a bit anti-climactic when I pulled them out of the box; there was no fantastic golden flash of light or heavenly music or anything, just 2 black, heavy and expensive steal rods.

It is just like the front as far as assembly and bearing preload.

I used Trail Gear's single nut spindle lock kit and it went together easily.

 

[Stumpalama]

There is definitely a trick to getting the hub cap retaining spring in place. After too many unsuccessful attempts on the axle, I had to use the uninstalled hub to figure out how to install it. The trick is to uncoil it like spring and ensure each layer slips into the retaining ring slot.

There are more pics in this album: https://goo.gl/photos/a2YfdHRzEx1uEFsd6