FJ40 Frame Rivet Replacement? (1 Viewer)

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JVZii

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Does anyone have any experience with replacing rivets on a FJ40 frame?

I am debating replacing the front cross member on my fj40. I have a semi crusty one on my frame that could be repaired but replacing it with a clean one might be better. (There are a few cross members on eBay)

I see that sor.com has frame rivets for sale so it seems like something that is possible but it seems so technically difficult that I am not sure its feasible .

Bolts are a possibility but it seems like rivets if done right would be much better.

Is this something a welder or a body shop can do or is it something that really cannot be done.

Thanks for your thoughts .

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@DSB345 turned me on to using black oxide button head Allen bolts. They worked out really nice. And if you wanted to really get spiffy, you could putty fill the Allens and they would look like rivets.
 
I’m actually removing all of my frame rivets and replacing them with bolts. There’s some parts of the bottom of the inside frame boxes that have rusted through so I’m breaking it all down to cut out the rust and weld in new steel. My plan is to also weld in captive nuts and use the button head Allen bolts as mentioned above. All of my frame pieces are getting galvanized and powder coated soon and I’ll be posting pics of my frame resto and rivet conversion soon.
 
I’m actually removing all of my frame rivets and replacing them with bolts. There’s some parts of the bottom of the inside frame boxes that have rusted through so I’m breaking it all down to cut out the rust and weld in new steel. My plan is to also weld in captive nuts and use the button head Allen bolts as mentioned above. All of my frame pieces are getting galvanized and powder coated soon and I’ll be posting pics of my frame resto and rivet conversion soon.
Sor. Sells them the look great. Had the same issue on my fj25.
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There are some places I have to weld in captive nuts as there is no way to get a wrench in there but there are other places it isn’t the only option. Was just curious if you did the whole frame that way or not.
 
There are some places I have to weld in captive nuts as there is no way to get a wrench in there but there are other places it isn’t the only option. Was just curious if you did the whole frame that way or not.
No i welded them on the backside. Looks oem if you weld them carefully. They are rivets.
 
You welded rivets?
 
You welded rivets?
LOL, that was my reaction. A torch/oven to soften them with heat (then freeze them to make it so you can handle them, you have about a 2 hour window before they harden again) and then an air powered riveting tool is all you need to do rivets.

I’m going with bolts and welding captive nuts everywhere.
 
I am getting ready to do this as soon as the weather gets better. I will be buying the rivets from a supply house and using the bucking technique.
 
@DSB345 turned me on to using black oxide button head Allen bolts. They worked out really nice. And if you wanted to really get spiffy, you could putty fill the Allens and they would look like rivets.

Or weld them up and grind down smooth. Nobody will know it was once a button head bolt.
 
has anyone found these rivets elsewhere, reason i ask, is at 2 dollars a rivet ends up being expensive. I found a company that sells 10 of them for 3 Pounds in UK, nothing against the seller, just looking for a better price.

edit. after looking

Zoro Select Rivet, Round, 5/16 Dia, 5/8 In L, PK40 351010U.1 | Zoro.com

placed order here, and will evaluate. 8 usd for 40 rivets, will report later
 
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My problem is actually removing the old rivets...what is the best way to do that? Especially the hard-to-reach ones with the body still on.
 
i dont know, but im about to find out very soon. My best guess, to remove the body at all possible, if you cant put a grinder between the body and the rivet, wont be able to hammer it either.

Best guess is to remove, if you will try bolts instead of rivets, best guess is to use one of these..

belt sander

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for the last 40 + years i just tortch the top off and use a pointed air chisel ,a good one makes a difference and pound them out .they seem to come out easier being heated if your not good with a tortch this may not be the best method but usually only takes a day to de rivet a frame and now 40 years later takes me almost 2 days
 
I know I have said I was going to start this in the spring, but life always gets in the way sometimes. I finally have enough time and room to get this started..I will be ordering the rivets from a supply house and bucking them in the same fashion as factory. I will try to document the results and keep everyone posted. I should have something right after all the deer seasons here in NJ are over.
 
X10 on oxyacetylene

heat em up burn the top off and blow a hole through... they come out super easy.
 

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