Just wanted to share some info from my tuffy console install, as it might be useful for others doing the same.
I pulled the old console.
The existing bolts were m3.
I cut 2 7" pieces of 1.5" square perf tube, as another thread used that as a base.
The front cup holder was in the lowest set of holes on the new tuffy console (level with the bottom).
I bolted the perf tube in the rear and middle set of holes(mine had 3 sets of Phillips bolts holding it in, not just two as I'd seen in photos.)
I used m3 *25 hex key button head bolts and a 1" fender washer. The holes are just over 4" 4-1/4 I think, apart, so you can use the slop of the 1/2" holes in the perf tube to bolt them down.
I then used an existing hole for the base of my alignment, the front passenger hole holding the support on the rear. This aligned nicely. I measured out 5" and drilled the next hole.
I inserted 2 m8 rivnuts in the perf tube as shown.
The middle mount is 1/4" lower than the back. I had some red 1/4" silicone from another project, so I shimmed it with that, but fender washers on top or bottom works too.
It might be easier to get 1-3/4" tube for the front than to shim it, but I didn't want to wait.
I measured and drilled the front 2 holes, shimmed the front most bracket on the floor with a 1/8" bit of foam to prevent rattles, as the cup holder on the front just barely wasn't touching it, and bolted it all up.
2x M8*20 for the back
2x M8*30 for the front.
A 3mm Allen key fits through the rivnut if I need to remove/tighten the M3 bolts holding the perf tube to the truck later.
It's rock solid and easily removable. I didn't mutilate the cruiser. All holes are still in stock configuration.
The only mods to the console are the 3 new holes, and the one I enlarged.
I ordered some flanged button head hex key bolts to replace these normal JIS flanged bolts.
(Update: if ihad it to to over I'd move it about 1" further forward so the rear seat folds all the way down)
I had to wallow out 2 of the 3 new holes because apparently, I can't measure.
Those four holes are the only mods I made to the center console.
Bolting the square perf tube down with the M3 hex key bolts was the hardest part of the whole process... Just because it's fiddly.
That and measuring.... I had the layout drawn on the bottom with measurements to share, but after I had to wallow 2 holes out to fit, I figured nobody would want it.
I pulled the old console.
The existing bolts were m3.
I cut 2 7" pieces of 1.5" square perf tube, as another thread used that as a base.
The front cup holder was in the lowest set of holes on the new tuffy console (level with the bottom).
I bolted the perf tube in the rear and middle set of holes(mine had 3 sets of Phillips bolts holding it in, not just two as I'd seen in photos.)
I used m3 *25 hex key button head bolts and a 1" fender washer. The holes are just over 4" 4-1/4 I think, apart, so you can use the slop of the 1/2" holes in the perf tube to bolt them down.
I then used an existing hole for the base of my alignment, the front passenger hole holding the support on the rear. This aligned nicely. I measured out 5" and drilled the next hole.
I inserted 2 m8 rivnuts in the perf tube as shown.
The middle mount is 1/4" lower than the back. I had some red 1/4" silicone from another project, so I shimmed it with that, but fender washers on top or bottom works too.
It might be easier to get 1-3/4" tube for the front than to shim it, but I didn't want to wait.
I measured and drilled the front 2 holes, shimmed the front most bracket on the floor with a 1/8" bit of foam to prevent rattles, as the cup holder on the front just barely wasn't touching it, and bolted it all up.
2x M8*20 for the back
2x M8*30 for the front.
A 3mm Allen key fits through the rivnut if I need to remove/tighten the M3 bolts holding the perf tube to the truck later.
It's rock solid and easily removable. I didn't mutilate the cruiser. All holes are still in stock configuration.
The only mods to the console are the 3 new holes, and the one I enlarged.
I ordered some flanged button head hex key bolts to replace these normal JIS flanged bolts.
(Update: if ihad it to to over I'd move it about 1" further forward so the rear seat folds all the way down)
I had to wallow out 2 of the 3 new holes because apparently, I can't measure.
Those four holes are the only mods I made to the center console.
Bolting the square perf tube down with the M3 hex key bolts was the hardest part of the whole process... Just because it's fiddly.
That and measuring.... I had the layout drawn on the bottom with measurements to share, but after I had to wallow 2 holes out to fit, I figured nobody would want it.
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