Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX (1 Viewer)

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These are similar diameter to a 295/70r18 (within a couple mm), but 20mm narrower. I doubt you're anywhere any body mounts. I have 275/80r18, and I'm not into the body mount . . .

Yea that picture was the closest I am at ride height, depending on what angle I looked at it it looked close enough to might be an issue.

Ah, was gonna say I’ve got them on RW without spacers and no BM issues.

Nice! I knew you added the same tires but couldn't remember many of your pictures if you had issues or not. Without spacers you don't have issues with your UCA?
 
Yea that picture was the closest I am at ride height, depending on what angle I looked at it it looked close enough to might be an issue.



Nice! I knew you added the same tires but couldn't remember many of your pictures if you had issues or not. Without spacers you don't have issues with your UCA?

no issues with UCA but I am running TC arms. Front fender moved forward so no issues there. I kiss the sway bar at full lock, which I thought I had checked before installing.... ah well!
 
@TeCKis300 your picture of you rubbing into your body mount, was that in low or normal? Going to try and put jacks under the tire Saturday to see how much I might hit the body mount to see if I need to deal with all that cutting and welding. Just trying to compare. I got 35s in the 275/80/17 flavor so hoping that being skinnier is going to save me. I'll probably mash the pinch seem to one side just to be safe.
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I was in normal height, where I'd get the closest to the bodymount. As others have said, I think you stand a good chance at clearing. You're at 18mm effective offset which probably has you dealing more with the pinch weld.
 
Another consideration would be how much these tires will rub when aired down. Although my stock sized K02s spend most of their time at 42psi on pavement, I use them aired down to 15-20 psi often enough that any possible rubbing at full pressure is way too much risk when aired down.
 
Another consideration would be how much these tires will rub when aired down. Although my stock sized K02s spend most of their time at 42psi on pavement, I use them aired down to 15-20 psi often enough that any possible rubbing at full pressure is way too much risk when aired down.
I’ve never noticed any additional rubbing when dropping pressure compared to street pressure. The only part of my tires that deform are the portion in contact with the ground, the bottom 1/4 - 1/3 of the tire. And I’ve run very low pressures all the way down to 3-4psi. Unless I don’t understand your post, which has been known to happen.
 
I’ve never noticed any additional rubbing when dropping pressure compared to street pressure. The only part of my tires that deform are the portion in contact with the ground, the bottom 1/4 - 1/3 of the tire. And I’ve run very low pressures all the way down to 3-4psi. Unless I don’t understand your post, which has been known to happen.

This has been my experience as well. When the tire is at full pressure you are pretty much at the max dimensions of the tire.

I have run into some extreme scenarios on other vehicles where inward deflection of the tire (Climbing Hell's Gate and Escalator) from the contact surface being the sidewall, vs the tread caused some very very minor touching of my sway bar where I otherwise cleared. The usual suspects in terms of rub spots for the 200 are not really in areas where you could reasonably deflect the tire into them.
 
Well I guess I shall continue to be your skinny tired twin. Couldn't get the Icon Vector 5's in a reasonable time and just found out I am still several weeks out so I cancelled my order and went a different direction. Just picked up my 35x11.50R20 Toyo OpenCountry AT3s and having them mounted up this weekend. Will see if I still need to chop the body mount with the skinnier tire. If its at all close I'm going to chop it.
 
Well I guess I shall continue to be your skinny tired twin. Couldn't get the Icon Vector 5's in a reasonable time and just found out I am still several weeks out so I cancelled my order and went a different direction. Just picked up my 35x11.50R20 Toyo OpenCountry AT3s and having them mounted up this weekend. Will see if I still need to chop the body mount with the skinnier tire. If its at all close I'm going to chop it.
Depending on where you're offset is you should clear your body mount
 
Threw some 315/70’s on 17x7.5’s yesterday. Technically 34.4”x12.7” Front sensor lift maxed. Rear stock for now. No rubbing so far in the urban jungle. Unmodified body mount.
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Threw some 315/70’s on 17x7.5’s yesterday. Technically 34.4”x12.7” Front sensor lift maxed. Rear stock for now. No rubbing so far in the urban jungle. Unmodified body mount.
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Nice! I think you're on +40 offset?

Keep an eye on the UCA. Especially high compression with high steering angles dialed in. High probability of rubbing the UCA.
 
Nice! I think you're on +40 offset?

Keep an eye on the UCA. Especially high compression with high steering angles dialed in. High probability of rubbing the UCA.
It’s a +25. Closer to the outer fender but will check after some flexing and turning combos.
 
It’s a +25. Closer to the outer fender but will check after some flexing and turning combos.

Ah, it'll be super close but you may be fine. Keep an eye for witness marks near the underside of the arms.

With +25, the other concern is fender lips. Both front and rear. On full compression, you'll almost certainly have contact and that's too nice a rig to mangle the fender on. Could roll fender lips/fenders. On front axle, can add a bit of negative camber. Can also add larger compression stops.
 
Yea, thanks for the heads up. Definitely watching the outer fender lips. Fronts seem to be able to clear. Rear is another story. I’m super familiar with the Timbren active off road bumps and think they could help if I can get them setup correctly.
 
Ah, it'll be super close but you may be fine. Keep an eye for witness marks near the underside of the arms.

With +25, the other concern is fender lips. Both front and rear. On full compression, you'll almost certainly have contact and that's too nice a rig to mangle the fender on. Could roll fender lips/fenders. On front axle, can add a bit of negative camber. Can also add larger compression stops.

I’m a big fan of running a little extra negative camber on these rigs. Keeps you from getting into positive camber and super skittish handling when in high.
 
I’m a big fan of running a little extra negative camber on these rigs. Keeps you from getting into positive camber and super skittish handling when in high.

Yup! The factory specs 0 camber but I found several reasons once modified with bigger tires.

- Keeps big tires, or tires with taller sidewalls, from rolling over on cornering. Gives better cornering traction.
- More clearance against fender
- To you point, the suspension naturally looses camber when lifting dynamically, well into what looks to me like 2+ degree positive camber. Starting neutral height with some negative camber should decrease the amount of positive camber gain when in high.

Win, win, win in my book.
 
An
Yup! The factory specs 0 camber but I found several reasons once modified with bigger tires.

- Keeps big tires, or tires with taller sidewalls, from rolling over on cornering. Gives better cornering traction.
- More clearance against fender
- To you point, the suspension naturally looses camber when lifting dynamically, well into what looks to me like 2+ degree positive camber. Starting neutral height with some negative camber should decrease the amount of positive camber gain when in high.

Win, win, win in my book.

You forgot:

- Now look like a stanced v-dub in low mode 😂
 
Yup! The factory specs 0 camber but I found several reasons once modified with bigger tires.

- Keeps big tires, or tires with taller sidewalls, from rolling over on cornering. Gives better cornering traction.
- More clearance against fender
- To you point, the suspension naturally looses camber when lifting dynamically, well into what looks to me like 2+ degree positive camber. Starting neutral height with some negative camber should decrease the amount of positive camber gain when in high.

Win, win, win in my book.
I'm about to have new tires and UCAs on. I'll be getting it aligned this week. What should we be looking for on negative camber? 1* or more?
 

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